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  1. #21
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    Quote Originally Posted by JOE G View Post
    If I poured it in October and I will not be able to coat it till at least may due to the weather so that should be enough cure time right?
    You're OK with that. Did you spray any "sealer" on it when you poured it? If so, it needs to get acid washed off.

    Floor epoxy comes in two forms...water based and solvent based. The solvent is a far superior product and I got my idea from a very famous NASCAR shop that can afford the best. It's a part "A" and part "B" thing that you mix and installation has a modest learning curve attached to it. Water based is homeowner and solvent based industrial/commercial. As mentioned in other posts, it ain't cheap. Good stuff has anti-slip already in it. Go with the best you can afford.

    Oh, If you go with Sherwin Williams, wait until a 30% or 35% off sale in the spring or when a new store opens.
    ******

    May I be the kind of person my dogs think I am,

  2. #22
    Silver Member JOE G's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    Sherwin Williams keeps coming up, I may go with that brand, There is no sealer on the concrete.
    Husqvarna YTH24V48LS
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  3. #23
    Bronze Member
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    Apr 2004
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    KY
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    JD 323D

    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    Joe G,

    Here is a link to a product I used for my floor in my last shop.

    TNEMEC.com: Series 66 | Hi-Build Epoxoline

    I agree, that the prep is the most important part. Please make sure to ventilate the space, or wear a proper respirator, as the fumes are pretty strong.

    Good Luck,
    JD 323D- 72" Grapple-Wallenstein FX 65

  4. #24
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    GC2310, Toro Reelmaster 5100D

    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    I have done several of these, and have a close friend who does it now almost daily.

    If your going to do it, do it right.

    The best way to prep concrete for paint, is to surface grind, or shot blast it. This roughs up the surface and guarantees adhesion. Anything less than this can work, but is a gamble.

    I rent a concrete grinder, and remove a thin layer from the surface of the concrete. This also allows you to be able to remove some pitting, and surface imperfections. Then, completely vacuum all the dust from the surface.

    Before making a choice on a product, check the technical bulletin and see what the solids content is. You want to use a 100% solids product. That means 100% of what you buy, ends up on the floor. Other products are as low as 50% solids, that means 50% of what you buy, evaporates.

    Sherwin Williams does make a good 100% solids product, Armour Seal. But it is labeled for professional applicators, and has a very bad odor.

    I prefer: Epoxy Coat, Epoxy Paint For Garage Floors Epoxy-Coat.com They can sell you a kit with everything you need to apply it. And, they sell it in smaller amounts, so if you need more, or want to make samples, you do not have to buy a full gallon of epoxy, and a gallon of hardener. (Most other products only come in gallons). Epoxy Coat is available in just about any color, is low odor, and is as close to bullet proof as you can get.

    Note: Epoxy floors can be extremely dangerous when wet, without the proper amount of anti-slip sand, and color chips, (which also helps with stopping slippage), applied to the wet paint.

    Make sure you plan this out, watch videos, (Epoxy Coat has several), and take the time to learn how to apply it properly. It's pretty easy, once you have done it.

    Having 2 people, (one wearing spikes), helps a lot. But, I do it by myself. You can get the spiked sandals from Epoxy coat or, Lawn Aerator Sandals By Miles Kimball. With the spikes, you can walk right into the wet paint to distribute the sand and optional paint chips.

    This image is my garage with Epoxy Coat on it. It's completely cured, and ready for traffic. There was no clear coat used on this floor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?-floor.jpg  

  5. #25
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    There's some good advice from Ray66v but I'll differ on a couple points. With the Sherwin Williams I did, the anti skid was built into it and the product and the surface is still smooth but not at all slippery. I mop my floor and any added sand or other physical marks would be a dirt trap and tear up my mop unnecessarily. Soaking wet my floor is zero percent slippery.

    As well, grinding concrete is indeed the textbook answer for a commercial application but I have found that reasonably new concrete that is properly cleaned and then muriatic acid etched and rinsed has worked 100% for me. On a commercial job I might still grind but my barn came out fine and I had to clean some serious oil spots.

    After we etched the concrete, we wet it a little more and then used an old shop vac to take up the mess. Then we rinsed the floor and used a squeegee to move the water out. Actually night have used vacumn on some of that as well--i forget. Then we rinsed again and let thouroughly dry on low humidity days. No probs, not even remoely.
    ******

    May I be the kind of person my dogs think I am,

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    Quote Originally Posted by sixdogs View Post
    With the Sherwin Williams I did, the anti skid was built into it and the product and the surface is still smooth but not at all slippery. I mop my floor and any added sand or other physical marks would be a dirt trap and tear up my mop unnecessarily. Soaking wet my floor is zero percent slippery.
    I am not familiar with that product. Is it a low gloss finish?

  7. #27
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    Quote Originally Posted by ray66v View Post
    I am not familiar with that product. Is it a low gloss finish?

    I'd call it a sort-of softish medium-low gloss. More dull if slightly dirty. I'll bet if buffed with polish it would really shine.
    If you do a search on this site I have offered comments about my experience and opinions plus posted a partial photo. I think the product # is 1000 and it is a two part (mix to activate) product intended for the commercial busines. Look and see what you can find.
    ******

    May I be the kind of person my dogs think I am,

  8. #28
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    Quote Originally Posted by sixdogs View Post
    I'd call it a sort-of softish medium-low gloss. More dull if slightly dirty.
    When you said they made your paint slip resistant, and smooth, I wondered if they figured out how to do that, and give you a glossy finish. I know they have been working on that.

    Glossy finishes stay clean longer, and clean easier, but then your back to applying the sand.

    I can find out about it next time I talk to my SW rep.

  9. #29
    Silver Member JOE G's Avatar
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    What do I put this stuff on with? A Roller?

    What about Drylok what do i put that on with?
    Husqvarna YTH24V48LS
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    Husqvarna 7021P
    Husqvarna 562XP Woods Ported with .025 pop up Muffler Mod
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    Husqvarna 450 Anniversary Edition 2010
    STIHL 009 1998
    STIHL HT 131 Pole Saw 2012
    STIHL FS 110 R Trimmer 2010
    STIHL BR 600 Magnum Blower2012

  10. #30
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    Default Re: Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

    Yes, put it on with a roller. I think thick nap and a certail kind and i'll look up when you get closer.

    It's just me but I see no positives with adding abrasives to a floor finish that is already skid-proof. Didn't think this way until I put mine down.
    ******

    May I be the kind of person my dogs think I am,

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