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  1. #1
    New Member
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    Aug 2011
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    John Deere GT275 Kubota B7510

    Default home made dirt ripper

    if your area is like mine after I purchased my kubota B7510 I had trouble finding implements to fit other than mowers and blades. when I did find anything the cost was way out of my price range, so I decided to build a two in one ripper cultivator just my size, thought I would share the project with you guys.
    this is 4 ft wide the two tool bars are 18" apart front one is 3" to hold the rippers from my box blade and the rear one is 2" to hold cultivator tines.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails home made dirt ripper-img_7032-jpg   home made dirt ripper-img_7033-jpg   home made dirt ripper-img_7026-jpg   home made dirt ripper-img_7028-jpg   home made dirt ripper-img_7029-jpg  

    home made dirt ripper-img_7031-jpg   home made dirt ripper-img_7030-jpg   home made dirt ripper-img_7027-jpg  

  2. #2
    Elite Member bullbreaker's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
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    2,930
    Location
    SW FLA
    Tractor
    1/3 PARTNERSHIP IN BOTA 7060 (PLANT NURSERY OPERATION) SOLD MY PERSONAL L3400 DT BOTA

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    Awesome looking build.
    Wish I had skills like that to fabricate my own.
    Looks real nice, my only concern would be catching ripper on something that wouldn't give(shear/spring loaded) and damageing something on 3 pt.

    Boone
    2 CHRONICLES 7 : 14 (KJV)

  3. #3
    New Member
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    Aug 2011
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    John Deere GT275 Kubota B7510

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    I figured my tractor is so light and small it would just stop the tractor if I hit a root or something to big to pull just like it does with rippers in box blade, may really surprise me the first time I hit something. It has space for 4 rippers and I have 6 s tines for it my tractor may not even be able to pull it

  4. #4
    Platinum Member
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    Oct 2010
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    596

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    I figured my tractor is so light and small it would just stop the tractor if I hit a root or something to big to pull just like it does with rippers in box blade
    I thought the same thing when I made mine, that's why I made the rippers removable. It suprised me how well it'll go thru a lot of knarley roots, sometimes it takes a few swipes but other than bigger well anchored roots it'll rip most up. I do have a 6" longer tine I put in the middle for the really stubborn ones.....Mike


  5. #5
    New Member
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    Aug 2011
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    John Deere GT275 Kubota B7510

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    my rippers are removable to and then that just leaves the cultivator tines, looking at your pictures doesn't look like you will bend your rippers.

  6. #6
    New Member
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    John Deere GT275 Kubota B7510

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    my rippers are removable to and then that just leaves the cultivator tines, looking at your pictures doesn't look like you will bend your rippers.

  7. #7
    Gold Member
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    Aug 2008
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    373
    Location
    Darlington, SC
    Tractor
    1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    dedgin, I built a ripper 15 yrs ago somewhat like yours. Instead of building the 3 point hook-up on the ripper I built a trailer mover hitch before the ripper came to mind. So then I needed a root rake (as I call it) and put a solid piece of 2x2 into my hitch and welded a piece of 4" tubing crossways and cut the notches for the rippers to slide in just like on the box blade. I see where you cut pieces of pipe. I bent some U shaped bars to weld on my tube to hold the pins, again, just like on my BB. So after a couple hrs of pretty hard use, I realized my 1/4 in thick tubing was tearing in my notches. So, on the back side bottom and the top side front I welded some 1/2" X 1" flat bars to beef up the stress points in my tubing. No more stress problems. Over time the lynch pins would work their way out and I'd drop a ripper, never found 1 of them but to prevent that I took (4) 7/16" bolts and put 2 pieces of flat bar on top of my anvil and hit them (bolts) hard with a big wedge type hammer and put a slight banana bend in them and replaced my L shaped pins with banana shaped bolts. That allowed me to use them in the same U clamp holes but still get wrenches on them. I also used nylon style lock nuts, bolts don't tighten up but nuts do not work loose.

    As far as the ripper causing problems on the tractor, on my TO35 Ferguson, I've never had a problem, it has done some pretty serious ripping. I had it on my 2200 Yanmar ripping out some small rotted stumps I had cut off at ground level with a chainsaw some 5 yrs prior. You could kick them out of the ground they were so rotted. I put on my root rake (ripper) and I was riding pretty fast, ripping stumps, using the speed and momentum, ripping stumps, never slowing down. I'd spot another one and as I started to cross over the stump I'd drop the rake and rip it, raise the rake and never slow down. Things were going good...until I hit one a lil bigger that hadn't rotted. Everything stopped, the tractor stopped dead in its tracks, but the big heavy plastic fan on my yanmar DID NOT stop. It rung the water pump shaft and my fan went through my radiator. 180.00 to rebuild my water pump and 200.00 to replace the radiator core.

    So, I tell you all this to say do not get to riding too fast and dropping the rippers like I did. Learn from my mistake. Save your tractor. Ease up to it and drop the ripper and let the tractor PULL it out instead of RIPPING it out. It'll save ya some money.

    We live and learn. I learned that lesson the hard way.

    Your ripper looks good, I like it. After using it some, check your tubing where your rippers fit to see if your tubing is stressing, you may need to add the flatbar to strengthen your steel. And save yourself the trouble of looking for your ripper bars by using the bent bolts. Not sure if your cut pieces of pipe will hold up. There seems to be a good bit of pressure on the pins and it might tear your thinwall pipe out. If so, build the U shape loops out of heavier flat bar.

    Building our own implements is a trial and error thing. You got it going on but might need to make a few adjustments/improvisions. It looks good, you'll get a lot of use out of that piece.

    You'll want to build more attachments for your tractor and by building a 3ph trailer mover, you don't have to build the 3 ph part but 1 more time and it's easier to change out equipment pulling 1 pin and sliding a new piece in. I call it the reese hitch 1 pt fast hitch. (Farmall 140 1 point fast hitch)
    modify, adjust and improvise....a country boy can survive

  8. #8
    Gold Member
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    Aug 2008
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    Location
    Darlington, SC
    Tractor
    1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    mrmikey, thats a good looking rake you built too. What are the teeth made from? Are they factory?
    modify, adjust and improvise....a country boy can survive

  9. #9
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    315

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    Looks Good,
    Only things I'd have done different would have been to reinforce the front beam with a piece of 1/2" flat bar. Also made provision for a
    single ripper tyne in the centre.

  10. #10
    Platinum Member
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    Oct 2010
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    596

    Default Re: home made dirt ripper

    mrmikey, thats a good looking rake you built too. What are the teeth made from? Are they factory?
    Thanks.
    The teeth are 1-1/2" diameter stressproof set into 1-1/2" sch 80 pipe that go thru the 3 x 3 x 1/4 tubing. I put a slight bend in the end as well as cut it at a 45 deg angle so they pull down into the ground. They were showing signs of wear on the tips so I ran couple of beads of hardface rods around the bottom end.

    Since I've taken the pic I added a drop down blade in front of the teeth so I don't have to keep changing from my back blade to the ripper.

    I like Dedgins design also using actual ripper teeth and was origonally going to go that way but having to buy the teeth as well as the concern about it pulling in too deep made me go the other route.

    Ease up to it and drop the ripper and let the tractor PULL it out instead of RIPPING it out
    You are definetly right, unless it pulls out it stays there, yanking it out doesn`t happen, repairs are costly...Mike

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