Question about using cedar trees indoors as supports....

[Richard]

Perhaps on the surface, the title makes no sense!

Wife wanted to add onto the house.

The living room used to have two windows facing the front yard. Both windows have been removed and the logs between them have been removed so now there is (guessing) and eight to ten foot wide opening, allowing you to walk into the new room.

She says she wants to add (for cosmetic reasons, not structural) some supports there. Her idea is to cut a couple of eight to ten inch diamater cedar trees down, de-branch them and use those as posts. She's not sure if she wants them to be debarked or sanded....

(she's famous for making decisions on the fly)

I don't care either way....if she wants them, I'll find them on the farm, cut them and drag them home.

My basic concern is twofold

Moisture and bugs

My guess is there shouldn't be any wood boring insects hibernating or gestating in the cedar? If so, what can one do?

Second would be moisture. Any concerns taking a fresh cut cedar and fitting it in an opening like this?

Any other concerns that I'm currently not seeing?

 

[KYDan]

Are these Eastern Red Cedar? If so, they can be somewhat sappy and sticky if you don't let them cure. How large are they and did they grow in a heavy group concentration? If single or sparse cover trees that grow rapidly you will have a lot of white soft wood in them, whereas, if they grew in a heavy concentration without a lot of sunlight for rapid growth they will have a lot of red heartwood that will last and provide that distinct cedar fragrance and insects are generally not an issue with them. The heartwood (red) is what is used to line closets and drawers to prevent insect infestations and is pretty, aromatic wood. I would recommend milling them, but at least removing (peeling) the bark as insects can be behind it and they will etch the white, soft part of the wood, and be a nuisance in the house.

 

[Baby Grand]

Sounds nice and rustic to me! As KYDan said, cedar is generally a bug-free wood, so bringing the wildlife indoors shouldn't be a problem. I'd be concerned about making sure that you cure those logs for a good long time so they are dimensionally stable before you cut them to fit. Suggest you read up on moisture meters for woodworking. Nothing worse than doing some nice joinery and then having the wood walk on you.

 

[SPIKER]

If you have someone close that owns a wood Kiln to dry them that would be best. this will set all the sap & dry/stabilize them. The bugs should not be an issue if you peel the logs/ Using them vertically there should be pretty stable in length already as most shrinkage is in the round and not in the length.

If you can maybe DIG them out to retain the roots to an extent to give them a much NICER look (have part of the main root ball on the floor.) At the top if you DO put them in green you maybe should use a LARGE BOLT in the top and use a metal/wood wrap to cover the bolt that could be turned to keep the shrinkage out and provide some support for the opening.

Mark

 

[jerrybob]

The kiln is a good idea.....need to be cured. Your home will smell real nice for a few years.....a good thing!:thumbsup:

 

[studor]

I did something similar to "frame" the stone around my zero clearance fireplace. Putting them up with the bark is not a good idea because the bark will come off and create a mess in the drying process. Since it is not structural the amount of moisture is not all that critical but they will shrink some. I would not be too worried about trying to kiln dry them etc . Bugs will not bother with cedar most times (without the bark) but if you are really concerned mix up some borax in hot water and spray the logs with the solution and that will get rid of any bugs. If you can find some standing dead cedar of the right size you can probably cut it, peel it, spray it and put it up -- driftwood from a flooded area would also work. I frequently cut eastern white cedar in the winter and use the posts for structural supports in small sheds in the summer -- shrinkage is not usually enough to take them out of level -JMHO

 

[notme]

one thing i do know is peel them when there fresh cut if they dry for awhile there a ***** to get the bark off... and really if u could use the kiln as the guys have said or let them sit under a cover where the wind could hit them for a season or 2?

 

[PILOON]

Cedar is the one wood that has the greatest expansion from humidity. I.E. a 32" door can expand +/- 2" in width, so be sure to seal the wood well if you want to retain a nice fit/joint.
It also expands il length but not as noticeable.
Once had a door that was perfectly fitted in dry season then planed during damp times times in order to be able to close the door properly. When dry summer days returned and the door shrunk flies could actually get in due to shrinkage.

 

[Richard]

Thanks for the comments...some good ones!

I can't imagine she'd want the large end of the tree as the base but... I have a backhoe in case she wants part of the rootball pulled up.

Most of these are growing on the farm, surrounded by other trees. Unfortunately, the farm was selectively timbered 8 or so years ago. My father in law didn't much care for cedar so told the timber guys to take all they wanted. (it wasn't part of the timbering deal and they did some heavy machinery work on the side for him so he threw those in)

I think this means there are far fewer cedars and all the 'good' ones are probably gone unless they've grown to the currently desired dimensions over the years.

Weather permitting, I suppose we'll be out and about this weekend looking for some. If I remember to take the camera, I'll nab a few action shots.

 

[jwmorris]

We have a large shed, for a combine, 2 tractors and 3 trailers, that all vertical support is from cedars cut from our property.