trencher back hoe rebuild

   / trencher back hoe rebuild #1  

BHD

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
1,762
Location
easten Colorado
Tractor
JD 4020
I have a number of water lins to put in this summer, (at least a 1/2 mile) and maybe more. If I can do it with out a lot of jerry rigging and fighting things) THUS MY IDEA.

I have a home built back hoe I have for sue on my 4020 large tractor, the tractor is more tractor than it should have for the back hoe,



I have a Old Auburn trencher, at one time I made a creep drive on it, the tractor is to heavy for the drive, thus does not work well and gets stuck all the time. use on the 4020 tractor, (do not have the tractor it was designed for that would have been split and a creep transmission put in the tractor.



I just got a gas John Deere 6 cylinder 404 engine from a old JD 105 combine, (similar to the engine in the 4010 and 4020 tractors,


have a old 6600 combine for a axle or a old Massey Harris 82 combine axle as a possibility as well




OK I would like to combine them in to a unit some what like a Ditch Witch trencher back hoe unit.
something on the line of this vermeer unit http://www.purplewaveauction.com/a/2009/20090429equipment/1101.JPG

the engine has a adapter that looks like it can take a SAE bell housing,

when I have thought about the idea in the past, I kinda had the idea of taking a old pick up and using the drive shaft to drive the trencher, through the transmission, (it was designed for about a 40 hp PTO tractor), (currently I do not have a clutch or transmission that fits the JD engine)

the axle would be driven by a small Hydraulic motor (probably the one that I made the creeper drive out of,

Questions


would YOU, set the engine on in line like a car on the sub frame of the back hoe, and with trencher welded to the sub frame front, use a drive line and right angle gear box, (the right angle gear box is to light for the trencher unit and needs to be heavier, replaced),

one could set engine side ways and belt drive trencher like the combines drove the transmission,

or one could directly drive a good sized hydraulic pump and use a hydraulic motor on the trencher, (currently do not have pumps or motor)

use a small belt drive pump on the creeper drive and to power the other hydraulics on the machine, 10/12 gallons a min would be more than enough.

I would most like add a old truck steering axle under the back hoe end, and the creeper drive (combine axle on the trencher end).


how would you set the trencher up to be driven?

what other things have I over looked, (I want to redesigned the out riggers, and if I would combine the two units most like I would make a blade that would work as an out rigger and back fill tool,

Comments or Ideas?
 
   / trencher back hoe rebuild #2  
One option I see is mounting a sprocket on the trencher wheel and one on the tractor wheel. Instead of trying to push the tractor with trencher wheels drive the tractor. ?????
Just a wild guess just from looking at the pics.
You have a lot of parts and pieces and sure do have a lot of options.
In the past I have cobbled different things together. Some were successful, others, not so much. That's why I hesitate these days.
What is all that white stuff on the ground?????? :) :)
 
   / trencher back hoe rebuild #3  
Just my opinions, they're free so take them for what they're worth :)
would YOU, set the engine on in line like a car on the sub frame of the back hoe, and with trencher welded to the sub frame front, use a drive line and right angle gear box, (the right angle gear box is to light for the trencher unit and needs to be heavier, replaced
),
I think a right angle gearbox would have to be quite tough to put up with the shock load. Not only that but I would imagine the shock load transferred to every other component in the power train would be high also

one could set engine side ways and belt drive trencher like the combines drove the transmission
,
That'd be my option, you have the option of changing ratio's quite easily by changing drive/driven sheave sizes should you find speed/power ratios are not what works well. Not only that but the belt acts as a shock absorber, granted belts that size are not cheap but are cheaper than a replacement gear box. The more directions you change thru gearboxes etc the more power you lose and the more components you add.

or one could directly drive a good sized hydraulic pump and use a hydraulic motor on the trencher, (currently do not have pumps or motor)
I think you'd need a pretty good size pump motor $$$$$

use a small belt drive pump on the creeper drive and to power the other hydraulics on the machine, 10/12 gallons a min would be more than enough.
That's a good size amount to belt drive, doable but you'd probably need a dual belt at least, probably the best most versatile option unless there's some way you can direct drive the pump using a driveshaft .....IMHO.....Mike
 
   / trencher back hoe rebuild #4  
Biggest advantage of belts is they dampen vibrations and allow slight misalignment.
 
 
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