Building an FEL quick attach for an L3400 Kubota

[Chilly807]

After about 4 years of owning the L3400, I've finally decided I need to be able to easily swap implements on the loader. A little bit of background before I get into the actual build details..

This spring I approached my dealer to see about getting the SSQA adapter for my loader (LA463). It turns out that adapter is no longer available, since the LA463 has been discontinued a couple of years ago.

So, another possibility was to buy an aftermarket adapter, which is available but expensive, almost $800! I'd still have to modify my bucket, too. About now, $500 for the SSQA option if I got it when I bought the tractor looks like a bargain!

Some of the other members of TBN have been in the same boat I'm in now, and have built an ATI/Kubota style adapter for their tractors. This type hooks under the top two pins of the implement, and two lower pins slide in place. A lot easier than fitting pins and bolts every time, and close to being as easy to deal with as an SSQA style adapter.

Some of those builds are here for those that are interested:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/263694-homemade-quick-attach.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/234595-la-302-bucket-quick-hitch.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/270685-quick-attach-snow-pusher-build.html

And a thread from converting the same setup I have to a SSQA style:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/208653-so-you-think-converting-pin.html

I'm using 1/4" plate steel, the same as the original setup. Briefly considered using 5/16", then got control over the demon on my right shoulder that wants to over-build everything, just in case... the left shoulder demon says "Ahh, come on.. those things are over-designed anyway, you could get away with a lot less", and "that's good enough!"


This is what I started with.



The size for the rear plates was 2.75" x 14" x 1/4. That may get changed as things come together, I'm posting as I build it.

Using a tip from one of the other guys here, I tack-welded the 4 rear side plates together to be sure all the holes were in the same place. Great idea that, it would have never occurred to me if he hadn't mentioned it.

I drilled the pilot holes 1/4", then used a 1" hole saw to cut the pin holes. DOM bushings will be welded over the outside of the plates to support the pins.

I used 1.75" OD, 1" ID DOM tubing for the bushings, the original was 1.5" OD.. right-side demon had his way with me on that one. I may regret that choice later, it's too soon to tell.


These longer bushings will go in the front half of the adapter, one in each bottom set of holes, and one will be split down the middle to support the upper pins, with one split half in each side. This should get clearer as things come together.



I remembered one of the guys saying that his cross-tube was too close to the loader arms at full curl, so I retracted both cylinders with the rear plates in place, then drew a line across the plates to remind me that the tube has to go in above that line or I'll have the same trouble. I'll be getting the pipe for the cross-tube soon, once I know what the OD will be I'll drill the holes for the tube before I remove the tack welds holding the plates together.

Sean

 

[Baby Grand]

Looks like you have a plan and you're making good progress!
I'm taking notes for my own QA project this Summer.

 

[k0ua]

Looking at that La463 pin on bucket taken apart, reminds me of past fun. Looking forward to see how you come out.

James K0UA

 

[stuckmotor]

I'm thinking about doing something similar and will follow your progress.

 

[Scooby074]

Subscribed for future reference:thumbsup:

 

[Steve in MT]

O.K. Chilly, Im back with my repair info. Part of the reason that I got hung up in the bucket the other day is that I bent the upper ear on my QA. How I managed that I don’t know. What happened was that it pinched the upper bucket pin into the QA and it wouldn’t release the bucket. It only took a few whacks with a 2lb sledge to straighten it back into position. Apparently a weak spot that needs some attention. I didn’t have a piece of ¼” flat bar to weld into it but did have a piece of ¼” wall square tubing. I cut a 4” piece out of it and cut the center out of it so that I had 2 repair plates so to speak. I welded these into to face of the QA inside out and that’s why they look kinda funny. Its strong enough now that I wont likely bend it again however it might not hurt for you to box this section completely in when you build yours, certainty couldn’t hurt. I also wonder if I built the ear too tall as I have seen other homemade QA s with a much shorter ear so that’s something else to look into. But the one thing that I discovered while sitting on my L3400 is that its very difficult to see the ears on the QA when hooking into another bucketso for me I think that the taller ears are to my advantage. Sorry, I didn’t mean to hijack your thread, I just want to point out a potential weak spot.
Regards.


Before after

 

[Chilly807]

Nice looking repair. I had planned to add some stiffeners here and there, but I didn't think that area would be prone to bending. Good to know.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

I got a bit more work done on the bits and pieces over the past couple of days. It's taking me longer than expected, but I'm taking my time and trying to think it through before I leap into cutting and welding. I got really lucky today, one of the dimensions I hadn't given much thought to turned out to be just about perfect, pure unadultered luck.. it might not have been a showstopper but would have required some additional butchery of the loader arms and I want to avoid that if I can.

So, I had a piece of 1" ID, 1 3/4" OD DOM tubing laid aside for this project, it turned out that the ID was too small without some doctoring. It was 0.996-0.998", my pins are 1.00" nominal size. They've worn to about 0.996" in spots, but the existing bushings are around 1.025". I'm kind of surprised how much they've worn in less than 400 hours of use, although probably 40-50% of those hours are loader time. I don't know how big they were to begin with, but even with almost 0.030" of play the loader isn't too sloppy.



I enlisted a machinist friend of mine to part off 8 bushings, each 5/8" wide from the bar of DOM tubing. The longer bushings in the picture were cut off with a recip saw, I squared the ends on a small lathe and then split one of them down the middle with a hacksaw. I have access to a machine shop with some great machinists, and every toy from a simple lathe to water jet cutting tables, but I'm trying to do as much of this as I can with tools most of us are likely to have available as hobby farmers and home gearheads. So far, all I've had to use that I wouldn't normally have has been the lathe to bore the bushings out and square the ends.

Anyone that's going to tackle one of these should be prepared to spend a little bit on machine shop time, or else be more patient with a file than I am.

I passed a 1.005" end mill through the bushings, it did a great job of opening them up to a size i can work with, my pins slide in neatly with a little bit of play, hopefully enough to keep things from binding when I weld. I drilled 4 of the small bushings to take the pin retaining bolts.



Today started by cutting the last hole in the loader side of the adapter plates before they are separated, the 1 1/4" hole in the middle for the cross bar. I used a bi-metal hole saw and lots of cutting oil. My drill press hates me after cutting through what amounts to 1" of steel using a hole saw. I cut the other holes a couple days ago.

I picked up a 48" piece of 1 1/4" solid steel bar yesterday for the cross-bar. I had planned to use pipe to keep the weight down, but anything that would fit comfortably in the side plates was a bit small for my liking. The next nominal size up was too big, so I went with solid bar (more variety to pick from).

For the front (bucket side) plates, again it was a 1" hole saw to start, then I used the recip saw to cut the top slot to rough size. Finish work was an angle grinder and a file to get the right shape and size. I decided to leave them all laminated together as long as possible, that way all 4 are identical. Hopefully correct, but at least the same.

Tomorrow is more of the same, maybe get some tack welding done. I have to relieve some parts of the plates to allow for bushing overlap.

Initial measurements show that the adapter will move the bucket just about 2 3/4" further out from the loader arms if everything continues to go well. That's less than I thought, and the less the better, since it's not overly light weight. I'm guessing it'll come in around 40-50 pounds.

I'm trying to keep track of all the measurements for the LA463-size version of this thing.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

Hmm.. rainy day today and I'm feeling lazy! Working the night shift is good when it's sunny, but I don't like welding indoors when it rains. This might be a "considering" kind of a day when you sit down and just look things over, check for problem areas and mull over what you'll do next. That's why I don't do this for a living, I'm so slow I'd never make enough to survive doing it.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

The sun came out, and so did the hole saw and welder. I cut two relief areas out of the front halves of the adapter plates, one for the cross-bar to pass through, and the second larger one for the raised boss on the sides of the loader arms to have clearance. I had forgotten it was there at all, when I noticed it yesterday it was an "Oh shi*.." moment. I actually got lucky twice, there was an easy way to accommodate it, and there was room between the lower bushing and the end of the loader arm without having to cut anything.



I also welded 4 of the small bushings in place, at least started the welding process. I think 1 inch stitches shouldn't warp anything too badly.. we'll see. I'm leaving everything together for more strength as long as I can.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

Another morning of iron work

I finished welding one set of rear side plates, there is some distortion, but so far it's manageable with a bit of pipe wrench and vise correction.. keeping all 4 plates tacked together seems to help quite a bit

The front set of plates is going together now, I have one set almost finished, another hour or so of on-again off-again welding should see that done. Once I have the sides attached, I think I'll tack the whole thing together except for the cross-bar before I start welding in stiffening pieces. The cross bar will be the last piece.

I have an expansion reamer on hand for the final fitting, anything that's too tight will either get reamed or filed out as the case may be.

Sean

 

[Midniteoyl]

Looking good!

looks like you have the same workshop as I do.. The Driveway . Except mines all sand... beach type sand. Drop a screw and its gone forever

 

[LD1]

Drop a screw and its gone forever

I am sure those screws you drop are very easy to find. All you need to do is run a tire over the area and you'll find it for sure. :laughing:

Subscribed as well.

Looking good.

 

[Chilly807]

It's starting to take shape now, I got the front half of the right side welded together with minimal distortion. Well, it still fits anyway.. actually the pins slip in with very little effort, so I must have got something right.

I found a mistake, but I think I can work around it. The front half extends back alongside the loader arms at the very bottom with the cylinders fully retracted, and there isn't room for it on each side of the loader arm. So, I think I have enough material to cut the bottom of the adapter plates away in the interference area without weakening the structure at all. I'll know more tomorrow if I get a chance to work on it. If I can make it fit I'll show the modified pieces.

Building this thing has really driven home to me how weak the loader assembly is if you submit it to any side loading. It's meant to accept forward digging pressure and lifting load, nothing from the sides. I occasionally used the edge of the bucket and steering to shove a log or a rock into place. Not a good idea. I've been looking at ways to make this adapter as strong as possible to resist side loads, but it's really not a good idea to introduce them at all.

I also noticed I need to relieve the upper back edge of the front plates slightly where the cylinder rod end touches them when it's fully curled.

Sean

 

[Steve in MT]

Sean, Looking pretty good so far and I like the design of the upper ears. I also had interference problems at the bottom of the adaptor, but mine was when the cylinder was fully extended. You are going to love having the reamer for final fitting. I bought one off of ebay and it was well worth the $30.00 that i paid for it. This one is fixed at .004" over one inch (1.004) and was very happy how it worked. Keep us posted on how yours works, if needed anyways.
Steve

 

[Chilly807]

It's so stinking hot here today it's not fit to do much work at all. We've gone from cold and wet to hot and dry over night it seems. The weatherman is calling for rain later this week and more moderate temperatures for June. Getting under a welding helmet with a jacket on to protect my arms is not my definition of fun in 30+ C temperatures.

I did weld a bit this morning, and made some relief cuts in the front half of the adapter to accommodate the tips of the loader arms. I'll tack it all together loosely and do a dry run with no bucket to see if I have clearance where I need it or if more trimming is needed. I will need a thin spacer plate on each side to give enough clearance for everything to move freely, I'm thinking 1/16 should do it. I thought about using washers, but I'm afraid of it sucking in and warping in the space between them.

Steve mentioned the upper ears of the adapter.. I allowed an extra half inch or so of vertical run above the center line of the pins before it tapers forward on to the "loading ramp", and I plan to weld a small piece of plate in that area for a flat bearing surface, same thing on the back side. The ears are a bit too long in the front I think.. I'm going to try it before I shorten them, but I think they might tend to bind against the back of the bucket channels if I have too much dump angle when loading the bucket in place.

The tractor got pressed into service today to plow our vegetable garden, and tomorrow is a fence repair day. I'm hoping to get back at it in the evenings if the weather holds.

Sean

 

[600rider]

Great looking QA Chilly, I see you referenced my QA build and one thing I fight with on mine is the lynch pin holes. I didn't do such a good job lining them up and would recommend that you make the slide in pins longer than the bushings and not have to put the lynch pin through both the bushing and pin. If I wasn't so cheap I would go to TSC and buy longer pins and not have the hassle!! I used mine for tornado clean up last week and switched from the bucket to the forks a bunch of times and am so glad I made my QA!! Don't know what I would have done with out it!

 

[Chilly807]

I have longer pins, they will extend all the way through so it shouldn't be a problem. I'm going to try to put grease fittings in the lower pins, the rear set will be the stock Kubota pins so it's no problem to grease them.

The material I used to make the pins seems to be pretty tough, it'll be a treat trying to drill them..

I found these collars today at Princess Auto, 1" ID and fairly thick wall, they're meant to be used as a retaining collar on shafting. I think they'd work just fine as the short bushings for the QA. The price is right too, I thing if I'd found them first I would have used them for the 8 small bushings instead of parting and reaming the DOM tubing.

Sean

 

[Scooby074]

Sean, are those bushings 1" exactly or are they clearance (ie:1.005"). Im thinking about making a bucket and those bushings could save me a bit of work (and money at the machine shop) if they are clearanced for a 1" pin.

 

[600rider]

Another thing I did after the fact was to make 2 "L" brackets to hold the pins while switching implements. I drilled and tapped the end of the top pins for a 5/16 24 bolt and a hole in the leg of the bracket the size of your pin, when you remove the pin put it in the bracket so you don't have to carry it and run the curl with your hands full.