Building a front end loader

[OutbackL130]

I've decided a small front end loader would be an invaluable asset around my 3.5 acre property and fabrication shop. The plan is to build one for my john deere L130, which I realize is an ambitious task given it being such a lighter duty jd. With that said it does have a heavy duty enough frame to handle a loader and I am willing to modify the tractor to make this work. I have already upgraded the transaxle to take care of the hydro failure these units are known for and have been using it frequently to rake my 600ft gravel driveway with a harrow for the past 9 years.

I will only need to lift around 500lbs max plus the weight of the loader. I will use the loader mainly for unloading dirt/gravel from my trailer, spreading gravel on the driveway and filling in ruts with dirt.
I want to make the bucket removable and able to attach a set of forklift forks on the front to carry pallets in and out of my fabrication shop. I want to be able to leave the deck on in conjunction with the front end loader as I still will use my l130 for mowing. The hydraulic pump will either run off the electric PTO or I will fabricate a bracket to mount a pulley on the fan side of the engine.



I'm back from a 2 day marathon reading everything I can on the internet about building a front end loader. Still have a few specific questions.

1. What size tubing to use for such a light duty FEL? Would 3 x 2 x 1/8" rectangle work for the main verticle bars and 2"x 1/8" square for the loader arms?

2. Are bushings typically used or not at the loader arm pivots and if so which kind works best?

3. What is the best control valve to use?

4. The older garden tractors you see having front end loaders such as a john deere 318, do they have power steering? How difficult will turning be without ps?

5. I read that some people upgrade the front hubs from bushings to actual trailer spindle hubs with wheel bearings. Has upgrade the cast iron front axle to one from a more heavy duty garden tractor ever been done before?

 

[jaydee325]

Check out cadplans dot com.

 

[OutbackL130]

Yeah I saw them and they look very well designed!

 

[OutbackL130]

I've come across pf engineering and they seem to have some fantastic loader plans and plans for upgrading to 1" spindles. Sweet!

 

[tcreeley]

Check this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/148422-cub-cadet-homemade-front-loader.html

 

[Xfaxman]

This build thread is for the most amazing loader I have ever seen!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/288056-toro-groundsmaster-217d.html

Might give you some ideas, since it could be made to fit a garden tractor.



Look at my avitar, I put a garden tractor loader on a similar machine.

 

[OutbackL130]

thanks for the helpful links. I also went ahead with the pf engineering plans. For $60 its totally worth saving all the time and frustration in figuring out how to make this work.

I do have a general design quesion about FEL's. Does locating the loader uprights as far back as possible help increase capacity? I see two points available on my tractor to build the loader subframe and still be able to utilize the mower deck. One is right in the middle of the tractor leaving about 4" for your feet to step through. The other is located just in back of the front tires almost directly next to the engine.

The first way seems like it would distribute the load better and will be a simpler and stronger way for me to mount a subframe. The only thing is it will locate my uprights to the outside of the foot rest platform which means they will stick out wide, although not wider than the rear tires. I didnt know if there was a general rule of thumb here for the distance between the uprights. I notice most tractors keep the upright posts in front of the foot rest so they dont stick outside the body. Any reason for this?


I'm curious why do they have the upright posts so far foward? Could they not have set the uprights farther apart so they go around the floor board and locate the uprights further back?

 

[OutbackL130]

I have lots of questions lol. those without ps how hard is it to turn a tractor when loaded? Anybody install a rack and pinion gear box to reduce steering effort? My l130 has always been fairly difficult to steer since new. Just wondering if there is a way to improve the steering mechanism.

A modern steering gear box would be nice. I build stretch limo golf carts and when fully loaded they weigh in at 3000#. They have rack and pinion steering and you can turn the wheel with one hand while standing still.

 

[OutbackL130]

I see the power steering on the john deere 318 looks pretty simple. I wonder how difficult it would be to adapt power steering to my l130.

 

[swick1]

If i were you i would look into making it's lift capacity about 400lbs. The tubing in the pf engineering plans is heavier than it should be. You should buy thinner wall tubing and put teeth on the bucket. The lift cylinders are also over spec if you are running at 2000 psi. Get an adjustable relief valve and set it so you won't lift too much weight. Check out the 1023e john deere loader for a similar design thats better engineered. It is on a much heavier tractor and can pick up about 800 albs at the pins.