building a wood post driver tractor mounted

[BHD]

been thinking about building a tractor mounted post driver,

my thoughts are to copy or to make a version Protech Machinery | Post drivers
and or something like the Shelbourne unit Parmiter Post Driver Range - Agricultural Equipment Manufacturer - Shelbourne Reynolds

and at least at first just the simple mount nothing fancy and manual adjustment for tilt if any.

any one have one?
built one?
any wisdom to send my way?
to better collect parts,

(plan on making a striking plate that follows the post down, figure it will help hold the post straight and protect the top of,

If you made one what did you use for a weight to drop, and how heavy was it?

I have a 90hp tractor to use it with,

Thank you,

 

[GPintheMitten]

One of the units you linked to had a 180 kg weight, that's about 400 pounds.

 

[BHD]

thank you for the response GP,

collecting things, right now and finalizing my designee, I think I want to use,
found some sheaves off eBay, and some nylon rope, rounding up steel and trying to figure out what else I need, ordered a valve and some cylinders from surplus center,

currently my ides are to use manual ratchet jacks for tilt adjustments, but did buy a stacked valve so if I chose to put hydraulic cylinders I could add to the stack of vales.
and or If I wanted to make a fancy swinging in and out type mount to the tractor, (did see a idea where it was a belly mount that would slide out from the side of the tractor) and then would retract back in,

Tractor I am using has a power beyond block on it and will not be using or going through the tractors valves, for the raising of the weight or the raising of the mast,

the way I am thinking now is with a simple base (basically just the three point, one can drive down a row if building a fence and use marker paint to locate the post spacing and on fence repairs just back in to the existing fence, My ground is fairly level, so need to have a lot of tilt or needing to tilt it I do not see it to be a lot of need only a few areas where one would need it, (possibly).

I found some Old cat ripper teeth/shanks, that are 3"x9" and about 3 1/2 foot long I am thinking about using for the weight, would need to cut them and bolt or weld in to a block,
Unless some one wants them worst than I do, and help me find a suitable materials for weight,
I have two of them and weigh about 250-300 pounds each,

well need to get back to working, that were the project stands now,

 

[john40981]

Great idea, I would love one of these but they are very expensive to purchase and I have not got that much use to justify that expence but I would like one so I will watch your build with interest. Good luck and post lots of Pictures:thumbsup:

 

[BHD]

ran across this company Multec Engineering || Omagh, Co. Tyrone, N Ireland || Steel Fabrication and Welding
Post Driver - Side Tilt (PD2)
and like this idea for the tilt and angle adjustments, http://www.multecengineering.com/imagesproducts/PostDrive_24L.jpg by sliding the one lift arm and the hydraulic top link, and I like the removable 2" bars for stands,
so I most likely will copy the idea,

 

[pickstock]

will definatly be watching this one, the other thing i want to get my hands on is an auger

 

[BHD]

with the rain I have had a few days to work on the pounder,

I started with what I call the base frame, the part that will attach to the tractor,





Part of the system is the tilt, used a 3.5" tube with a 4" x 3/16" wall to slide over the smaller tube, the rest of the frame is 4" tube.





then the three point lift points,





to curve the ends of the lift arms I use a compass attachment for the cutting torch,

 

[BHD]

Few Pictures of the nearly complete base frame





to day I worked on the swinging lift arm.

turning and drilling the pivot bushing




Drilling the arm for bushing







weight lift arm nearly done,

 

[BHD]

the top link which is part of the tilt adjustment.

parts for the top link,




Welding of the tip link and eye on, I cut off the ears off the cylinder with the saw, when welding make sure your grounded in such a way it does not pass through the cylinder or shaft and arc and pit it. I wrapped the shaft with paper towel and aluminum foil so it would not get splatter on it,

 

[classacthollow]

Nice work, I really like your cutting jig. I may have to use that idea.