New segmented 3ph roller build

[jenkinsph]

I have been wanting to build a new roller for my lawn and small pasture jobs. Was picking up some fencing at the powder coat place and got a deal on these drops. Plan to have these turn individually and mount with 4 sections in the front row and three in the rear. Will make a 6'+ roller width which should be easily handled with the 4520 and should be able to pull it with the garden tractor whether it can lift it or not.

Anyway these sections of pipe are 18.5" diameter with .5" wall thickness 12" length. Got these for $10 bucks each and have some box tubing for the frame and pipe for the axles. Thinking I can add spokes to the pipe sections and trying to decide if adding flange bearings to the segments is worth the expense.
Plan on filling the sections with concrete for extra weight which should make each section about 275-300 lbs. Total weight for the 76" wide roller would be about 2300 lbs. Will be IMatch ready too just hope I can pick it up.

The big design question considering rollers don't see that much use is whether to use pipe sleeved for this or spend the money for a real axle and bearings? Looking for opinions on this. I see benefits to both methods, if I build it with a loose fit and use pipe the sections can follow the ground better. If I build it with bearings it becomes more rigid but would roll better without near as much wear.

Scrap of all types and sizes are available for 15 cents a pound, seems fair to me. I could easily load a few trailers with this stuff.:licking:

 

[KennyG]

I have been thinking about a segment roller also. How do these perform compared to one piece units?

 

[jenkinsph]

KennyG,
The advantage to a segmented roller is the short sections allow it to turn better without skidding on the surface. Much more practical to use with a 3ph setup which then makes backing and turning easier to do. On a large open area you can make gradual turns and do just fine with a one piece roller. I like the segmented design for backing in tight areas for residential lawns areas. In my case having it IMatch compatible means I don't have to leave the seat to switch implements which is another time saver. So having two rows of rollers which are offset means I can have it stand up right on it's own for easy hook up.

Since the first post I have rummaged through my scrap pile and come up with some 2" steel pipe to use for the axles and some 2 7/8" pipe to use for the roller centers. This allows for a loose enough fit to turn easily enough. I plan to put some grease zerks on the inner tubing and drill small holes to allow the grease to run into the cavities between the two pipes. Figure with some cheap moly grease to keep the pipes greased up I should be okay. Will use some scrap 3/4" square tubing for spokes to center the spools

 

[jimgerken]

I like the idea! But I would ask why would you want it 3ph? I would think it will track nicer behind whatever is pulling it if it has a hitch to the drawbar. I just imagine trying to do my lawn for example, with all the curves, my hitch type roller happily follows along, but a 3ph one would fight direction change badly. Just a thought. Great find!!!

 

[dieselscout80]

I like the idea! But I would ask why would you want it 3ph? I would think it will track nicer behind whatever is pulling it if it has a hitch to the drawbar. I just imagine trying to do my lawn for example, with all the curves, my hitch type roller happily follows along, but a 3ph one would fight direction change badly. Just a thought. Great find!!!

Maybe he could build it to hookup both ways see attached pic.

 

[jenkinsph]

I like the combination hitch that is a good idea:thumbsup:

The reason I would like to have a 3 pt roller is it is easier to back in between the trees. Also I can mount it on my 110 and use the fel to spread dirt and pack it down with one machine. It would be the counter weight in this arrangement. The 4520 will have a Gannon boxblade behind it with a tow type add on and wheels that are removeable. I think I can rig up the same type towable hitch on it too so that is a real plus. Thanks for the picture dieselscout.

 

[jenkinsph]

Sorry it took so long to get back to this thread. Ford 850 brought this thread up in a current thread and I thought it best to finish this thread showing the results of the design/build.

I went ahead with the roller sections and built the centers using 2 7/8" oil field tubing and used some scraps of 3/4" square tubing for spokes to center the tubing inside the 18" sections. Also added some rebar scraps to the 3/4" tubing before filling each section with concrete. The 2 7/8" tubing protrudes a 1/2" beyond the concrete and outer sections to keep the rollers from rubbing the fixed stops that keep each roller fixed in place. I had these roller sections completed and had the chance to fill them in Jan of 2014 while working another concrete project. These rollers sat for all most two years waiting on the frame work.

I built the frame in the spring of 2016 between other jobs and waiting on eye surgery. I am no welder but this is some of the worst work I have done, just could not see the arc well enough, just blinding light. Hopefully I will find time to fix the welding soon. This eye surgery crap has slowed my projects down considerably.

Most of the materials are from my scrap pile and my powder coaters scrap pile. This guy is a great person that likes to help people who are interested in building new things. He just about gives me what ever I need. I am going to rework his lawn for him for free when he is ready.

The frame is easy to see in the pictures made out of drops from various projects. The 4x4 tubing is what I use for gate posts in my ornamental iron work. I used up some of this stock since I can't see well enough for that work right now. The axle used for this was two pieces of 2 3/8" drill tubing which has enough play to work with the 2 7/8" tubing. I installed several grease zerks on each of the axle tubes and drilled holes for the grease to come out between the rollers and axles. So far this has worked as planned. Nothing high tech about this part.

The quick hitch is simply welded bushings in between flat bar for an easy build with no holes to drill. Works perfect with my IMatch hitches. Not much cost here as I now buy the bushing stock in 4' lengths and cut to fit in a chop saw. For clevis flatbar and bushings total about $5 bucks and no pins or clips to lose.

Total out of pocket cost for this roller is less than $200, if it only works on a few jobs I am not out much. So far the greased pipes are working great so who knows how long it will last if it is greased before each use. This summer working a couple of larger projects I will have a chance to really try it out. Here are a couple of pictures taken in the fall of 2016.

Working on my latest project now, adapting my Frontier (Gannon) box blade for laser machine control, will have a 3 point hitch with drop down tongue for towing and finish grading. Will have wheels with 275/40 17 radial tires independently controlled hydraulics each side. Using all Topcon equipment for grade laser, control box and receivers. Hydraulics are using two 2.5x8 cylinders (Prince) and a Danfoss PVG32 two section proportional valve with PVEM solenoids. The last few parts I need should arrive tomorrow. Can't wait to start this project, it has been a long time coming at a high cost for the various parts but the time is now.:dance1:

 

[jenkinsph]

I like the idea! But I would ask why would you want it 3ph? I would think it will track nicer behind whatever is pulling it if it has a hitch to the drawbar. I just imagine trying to do my lawn for example, with all the curves, my hitch type roller happily follows along, but a 3ph one would fight direction change badly. Just a thought. Great find!!!

No problem with tight turning and maneuvering after some test usage. Since all the segments turn independently there is little scrubbing or sliding action. That was the purpose of using the segmented roller design. When I make a sharp turn the outside rollers can turn faster than the inside rollers. That would be a fight on a 3ph single roller though.

 

[RPW]

Nice. How much do you think it weighs?

 

[jenkinsph]

RPW,
The roller is between 2600 to 2800 lbs.