Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ?

   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ? #1  

Agent Blue

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Long ( did I say long ? ) cold winter ahead in the mid west. Next tractor project will be a cab for a 4110 John Deere. Read a couple build threads and want to pick out the best details in place of my usual trial and error methods. In depth details like wiring, heater examples, fresh air intake locations, door flex problems, interior room ( if adequate ) are good topics. The search method on this forum isn't the greatest or maybe I just don't know how to access it. At any rate if anyone with information on a cab build that has proven to work out please add your remarks.
Basic designs have not changed much. I am going with two detachable doors and possibly a removable rear glass. Unsure of roof.... metal or wood covered fiberglass, but room for a circulating fan, switches, and a radio. Due to the tractor size I feel 1" 1/8" wall square tube will be the frame material. Glass in place of popular lexan. I would like to see a shelf in the rear for my favorite four leg companion but haven't measured out the size required. Also how to hold the glass in place..... rubber molding or windshield setting adhesive. Angle or flat stock to hold glass in place. 16 gauge material to fill in where glass coverage is not present. Lighting inside and out.
I might have skipped some details. Any information is appreciated. Thanks in advance !
 
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ? #3  
Long ( did I say long ? ) cold winter ahead in the mid west. Next tractor project will be a cab for a 4110 John Deere. Read a couple build threads and want to pick out the best details in place of my usual trial and error methods. In depth details like wiring, heater examples, fresh air intake locations, door flex problems, interior room ( if adequate ) are good topics. The search method on this forum isn't the greatest or maybe I just don't know how to access it. At any rate if anyone with information on a cab build that has proven to work out please add your remarks.
Basic designs have not changed much. I am going with two detachable doors and possibly a removable rear glass. Unsure of roof.... metal or wood covered fiberglass, but room for a circulating fan, switches, and a radio. Due to the tractor size I feel 1" 1/8" wall square tube will be the frame material. Glass in place of popular lexan. I would like to see a shelf in the rear for my favorite four leg companion but haven't measured out the size required. Also how to hold the glass in place..... rubber molding or windshield setting adhesive. Angle or flat stock to hold glass in place. 16 gauge material to fill in where glass coverage is not present. Lighting inside and out.
I might have skipped some details. Any information is appreciated. Thanks in advance !

A-B,
I just went through this myself. I am in upstate NY and I what it has come down to for me is figuring I spend 20-30 hours blowing snow and have it blown back on me here in upstate NY and how much i could afford to spend this year having not worked since June.... All that said I found a used soft sided cab with hard roof for another tractor that was made by Original ( tag inside) I swapped the guy a plow frame I had here for it so next is to retrofit it.. I am going to make the frame out of emt and /or some light steel as it is now but for my TZ22DA.. I already have a roof that matches my tractor and want to try to make this fit my tractor.. HOPEFULLY I am successful we will see.. lol..
So for me bottom line was how much time would I use it and how much was I willing to pay... I liked the original cabs as they were easy to put on and take off for the most part.
 
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the sites midniteoyl. There must be a secret in searching the forum for specific topics. Also good info on U Tube.
 
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ? #5  
tractor cab 041.jpgtractor cab 039.jpgI built a cab for my 4110 a couple of years ago. Like you, I read many threads and picked out the features that I thought would be the most beneficial to my particular application. I wanted something that would be light weight and easily installed and removed as the seasons changed. I'm located in the western part of Virginia, so our winters are not as cold and harsh as many areas. I only intended for my cab to be a wind break and did not install any type of heater. I seem to stay warm enough wearing just a coat. For me, just staying out of the wind is great.
For my frame, I used 2" square aluminum tubing. The roof is 14 guage aluminum sheet metal, and the doors are aluminum angle. The windshield frame is 14 guage steel sheet metal with tempered glass and a universal wiper kit. All other windows are lexan. The rear window, as well as the lower front windows are secured in place with velcro, so they are easily removable if needed. The doors hinges are the pin style, so the doors can also be removed when desired. Due to the fact that my ROPS is the folding style, I had to get creative with the rear part of the cab in order keep the ROPS in place and still have some room behind my seat. While there is plenty of room to work inside the cab, I have doubts about enough room for your four legged buddy. My cab also seems to be very noisy. I have taken certain measures to try and deaden the noise, but haven't been very successful so far. Perhaps soft doors and windows instead of lexan would help soften the noise. I also used mostly 1/4-20 fasteners with knobs, just for easy installation and removal. I also had to build the windshield frame so that it would pivot a little in order to raise the hood of the tractor.
 
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ? #6  
Thanks for the sites midniteoyl. There must be a secret in searching the forum for specific topics. Also good info on U Tube.

Use the Google search at the top.. forget the forums built-in search as its crap..
 
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ? #7  
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ? #8  
I modified a Jo dale Perry front mount mower cab to fit on my brothers John Deere 4115 (same as 4110 but longer wheel base). I was in the Auto Glass business for over 25 years so that was a big advantage. The cab was started to be modified for a Kubota by my friend then he came across a Laurin cab for his model so sold the Jo dale to my brother. If you can weld and cut steel it is not that difficult of a task. The biggest expenses are Glass, Wipers, Heat and good lighting. Starting with the cab gave me the top half with roof and heater so I only had to modify the bottom mainly.roys old cab.jpegtractor 2.JPG4115.jpg
 
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks to all that provided more insight to the task. Starting with a cab to modify certainly was a huge step forward. Looks like I am going to get very acquainted with the bandsaw and mig. I am fortunate they make a variety of weather strips for sealing the many gaps that are sure to appear. Don't expect this build to be lightning fast. After all I have an old Corvette that needs to run by spring, odds and ends with the house interior, and several other projects in their usual " half done " sequence. And don't forget the winter vacation to miss some of the cold months. Getting soft in my old age !
 
   / Tractor cab ... any helpful hints ? #10  
About 10 yrs ago I built my cab for my Mitsubishi MT180D on the cheapo.
Made 2 frames of 1.5" sq tubing and then joined up with same material to form the cage.
I obtained glass panels from scrapped school buses as well as the gaskets to install the glass. (emergency doors are nice size)
Next I had a shop cut me galvanized (about 16g) panels to cover front and rear spaces as well as the frame roof.
For the roof I had them fold over the edges for rigidity as well as a 'drip edge'.
The widows were free as there is no value in glass.
Using the glass as a template, I cut out the panels to insert the glass and then simply used 1/4" sheet metal screws to attach the plates. I did not weld the plates as I wished to stay with the galvanized finish which will never rust.
B4 installing the roof, (screws again) I sandwiched a headliner backed with thin foam for insulation as well as sound deadening properties.
Roof sports 8 screws and the front and rear panels 6 ea.
Door is 1" angle stock using soft plastic as found on convertible rear windows as is the non door side.
Soft material is held in place with 1" strips that are 'pop riveted' about every 4 inches.
I also recycled one of the buss 'under seat' heaters to heat my cab.
And YES, I would go this way again. Very satisfied and very functional.
I will post a few Pics tomorrow.
True we are some years down the road but at that time my total 'out of pocket' was $200.!
 
 
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