pole barn ceiling

   / pole barn ceiling
  • Thread Starter
#21  
That's pretty slick SRS! yeah that's the way I was thinking of doing it - thanks a lot for your IDEA on a working platform.
 
   / pole barn ceiling #23  
When I had my shop built, the builder used 9 foot studs for the wall, laid down on 2x10 sill plate. He uses CMU blocks for concrete forms that are laid directly on the grade beams (18" x18" in my case since we have very little frost line). I had him lay down an extra course of CMU for several reasons, 1) so that I could wash out the shop with a water hose or pressure washer and not wet the walls and 2) so no runoff water could get into my shop if I had heavy rains. The sides of the shops have some rather steep hills on 2 sides and 3) to gain an extra 8" of ceiling height while doing so. When I added on my leanto in the back, I but in two coursed of block to gain a bit more height. It worked out well. Rebar was embedded in the grade beam to tie the blocks to the beam, then the blocks were filled with concrete and embed J bolts put in to bolt down the sill plate. It works very well.
 
   / pole barn ceiling #24  
I have 12 foot walls in my shop and would never want anything lower. I do a fair amount of woodworking and being able to handle the material without hitting the ceiling is huge. I've lived with 8 foot ceilings in garages and hated it. If this is something you are going to keep and use for a long time into the future, do it right, spend whatever it takes and get a higher ceiling.

How far apart are the trusses on the ceiling? OSB needs to have them no more then 24 inches or they will sag on you. If your trusses are farther apart then that, then part of the cost will be installing the lumber to support the OSB. Depending on how far apart they are will dictate what size lumber is used. It should be on edge so it doesn't sag.

I really like those pictures of the metal on the ceiling!!!! That's very nice.

4 inches is very common for driveways and garage floors. Cracking is going to be from the soil not being compacted properly, or not enough rebar being used, or none at all, and whatever is used, not being held up by chairs while the concrete is poured so it stays in the middle. Unless you are parking heavy equipment on it, six inches is a bit of overkill.

Eddie
 
   / pole barn ceiling #25  
If you get a drywall lift, make sure you get the one with the extension to reach 12' ceilings, if that is how high you're going.

I used mine in my shop, and even in my horse stalls, just put plywood down to roll it on.

Got mine off ebay too, and was like $155.00 w/free shipping out of Florida. Harbor Freight had basically the same lift on sale for $199.00. When done, I sold it on Craigslist for $150.00 within an hour. A win-win for me..!!
 
   / pole barn ceiling
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Well Eddie the builder told me the trusses would be 24oc I think that to much space between 16oc would be better this way a 3' foot roof panel would cross all trusses.
 
   / pole barn ceiling #27  
I have a pole barn builder down the road, and he made me a great deal on a trailer load of oddball sheets left over from his projects. They were all different colors but the back side is white, so I turned them over and made a nice ceiling for my 30x50 shop for about $300. I used my coil shingle nailer to put them up, finished the whole thing in about 4 hours.
 
   / pole barn ceiling #28  
I am putting steel on my ceiling one 24' section and two 20' sections. It was around 1900 for the steel and J channel. I am using 8' wide white backed fiberglass for the walls. I was doing the interior by myself, but I have help coming this week. The insulation is heavy. The pieces for the 16' walls are probably 80 pounds or so.

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   / pole barn ceiling #29  
I see people all the time talk about adding thickness to a concrete slab, usually 4 to 6 inches. Usually the extra yardage cost is more than just upgrading from 3500 psi concrete to 5000 psi and sticking with the 4 inch. Less concrete less labor cost better slab.
 
 
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