DIY Cab for Kubota B2620

[GPintheMitten]

Thanks for all the posts about home made cabs. A lot of good builders out there.

I've started my build but will have questions along the way.

My first dilemma is interference on the right side with the brake and the loader joy stick.
My original plan was to position the sides about a 1/4" outboard of the fenders which also line up with the floorboards. Then I noticed the brake peddle needed some clearance so I thought I would move the right side outboard another 1 1/4" out. But then I noticed the joy stick would need another 1 to 1 1/2 " beyond that.

So that would make it 3 inches beyond the fender on the right side. So I could build it off center leaving the left side as originally planned or bump them both out which would require 3 inches of sheet steel or rubber on both sides to fill the gap. Another option is to bend the joy stick in or build out a little box or bubble just in the joy stick and brake area.

I hope my description is clear. What do you think?

 

[GPintheMitten]

Never mind. I just bent the joy stick in 3 inches and it will clear. The break peddle will also be inside the plane of the outer edge of the right side but inside the inner edge. I can live with that.

Onward and upward!

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay... signing up for this thread. Followed your welder purchase thread and figure I am a year behind you. Definitely going to take a class once I purchase and before I start my projects for my BX but really looking forward to following your progress. Keep us posted often, please!

 

[GPintheMitten]

Been working on my cab. Here's a summary so far:

I'm using 1 1/4" square tube steel, 1/8" wall for the frame. The outside width is 40" and the height off the workshop floor is 83". This is about an inch lower than the foldable ROPs when up.
To support the cab in the front I'm attaching to the bottom of the loader support which already has 4 large holes and is 3/4" steel.







For support for the rear structure, I'm using the ROPs with some slight mods. The hinge for the foldable ROPs has one hole and a nut welded on at the factory that can be used to keep the ROPs from rattling by screwing in a bolt. I drilled these out to 1/2" and tapped them for 1/2" bolts. Then bolted on a 1/4" plate to which I will weld the uprights.



In addition, I beefed up the fender brackets that were welded to the ROPs at the factory. Then I'll bolt a 3" angle iron on top of the fender and bolt or weld it to the uprights. This will provide plenty of support.

The right fender bracket as it came from the factory:



The left support with 3" angle iron being fit before welding:







Later but not shown, I cut out some of the above plate to allow me to get a wrench inside this bracket to tighten bolts.

Edit: The reason I'm showing so much about the support, oddly enough, it was hard for me to figure out an appropriate way to do this and I wasn't clear on how others did theirs. I hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[GPintheMitten]

With a decent support system I tacked together the rear panel. It follows the slanted plane of the ROPs hinge.

Next I went to work on the front panel. Matching the rear panel it is 40" wide. Due to fit up mistake, the front panel is 1 1/4" lower than the rear but I decide to keep it that way rather than redo it. The upright tubes on the front have a "foot" tab at the bottom that I will use to bolt it to the bracket that I made that is attached to the loader support. The front panel will be straight up and down rather than angling it in or out. This is merely for simplicity of building.

To set it in space correctly, I clamp a horizontal piece running from front panel to rear, leveled it and set the distance of the right and left side of the front panel to the rear panel the same and also set the front panel plumb with a level.

Here's a some videos explaining more. Click on the image and it will send you to my Photobucket video. Let me know if you all just prefer pictures instead of videos. (I'm a terrible narrator, sorry.)

 

[thirdroc17]

I like the build so far, will be keeping an eye on your progress. I'd like to build a cab for my BX-2670, but a little measuring proved to keep it low enough to fit into my old shed, it would be too low for comfort. If it's not one thing, it's another. Maybe someday I'll get that garage I want......

I very, very seldom follow links to videos. Too time consuming. Pictures hosted offsite which show up as a decent size as you've done is perfect for me. None of that clicking, backtracking, clicking, it's just there. One can always follow the picture link to the really big one on photobucket if need be.

 

[GPintheMitten]

OK, not more videos. If anyone wants more detail, they can go to my photobucket account by clicking one of the video images in my previous post.

Built the roof section today. Each panel will be separately built and bolted together to make it easier for me to remove, store and install. I got this idea from another member on TBN from his build thread. I'll have to do some looking around to find his thread so I can give him credit due. The front, rear and roof are just clamped together right now. Next job the right and left sides. Here's some pics of the progress.

No exceptional architecture. It's your basic pope-mobile.

 

[vwnotrunning]

Looks like a great start. I will be checking up and looking forward to your review after you have used it some. Do you plan on it being removable?

 

[GPintheMitten]

Yeah, I want to be able to remove it. The 4 sides and roof will each be their own panel, bolted together to make it easier to remove and store.

 

[IXLR8]

Thanks for the mounting details, you have given me some ideas for mine, I am just in the planning stages. I did pick up a used TIG welder, so first step is working on making welds that will stick. Are you planning any brackets for lights?