Converting this Huskee 22 ton log splitter to electric

[wahoowad]

I've read some other threads here and know quite a few of you have done gas-to-electric logsplitter conversions. I'd like to do one using this Huskee 22 ton splitter from Tractor Supply and am hoping I can get some good pointers so I do it right the first time . This Huskee seems like a solid splitter with numerous features I like...except I like to split in or near my garage and know I prefer electric.

I note it has a two-stage 11 gpm pump...so I assume I need a specific HP electric motor? And while I would like to have all 22 tons of splitting power available the truth is I have split 98% of my types of wood using a little 4-ton Ryobi electric splitter so feel confident I will be well served with anything 15 ton or higher.

I have both 115v/20A and 240v/30a (NEMA 6-30 receptacle) power available in my garage, although leaning towards 115v since I might loan it to family with only 115v. That said I'm flexible. Is this doable? If so I could use help making sure I get the right motor and then I'm not sure how I mechanically connect the motor to the pump? I also have a welder if I need to fab up any new mounting brackets.

Thanks for any advice!

*PS - I know there is a Ramsplitter product but I think the Huskee offers better quality and additional features that the more expensive Ramsplitter lacks.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I know a few things but not nearly all of what you need to do it right.
I can tell you that a general rule of thumb is that to replace a gas motor with an electric motor the electric motor needs to be 1/2 the hp rating of the gas motor it is replacing. So an 8 hp gas job can be replaced with a 4 hp electric motor in general. You will want to pay attention to the rpm difference also so you can predict the ram speed and be sure you remain under the pumps max rpm spec. But usually electric motors are much slower than gas ones.

Edit. I have that same splitter. The engine is a 190 cc 650 series B&S
rated at 6.5 hp and 3100 rpm

 

[wahoowad]

Thank you for bringing up the RPM aspect as I don't understand how it factors into my electric motor selection. I was at Tractor Supply today and saw 2HP, 3HP and 4 HP 'Farm' motors. I believe I want the Farm rated motor because of the > 1 service factor and being TEFC rated - at least this is what I gathered from other threads.

The 3HP model is 230V and says 1800 RPM. Do I need to look for a motor to match the gas motor RPM? What is the impact if the RPM is lower? I don't want a slow cycle time.

 

[notme]

most electric motors spin a at 1750 rpm I believe, that gas unit I would think around 3000rpm? you can get motors that spin at different speeds I believe.. or mess with the frequency which requires a freq drive $$. if you use a double speed pulley system you will need twice the power. so your back where u started... might be easier to just do ur splitting outside and use the gas motor! now your hyd pump ( I could be wrong here im no hyd genious) turns a certain flo (gph) at a certain rpm if you go under that rpm u loose flow (longer cycle rate) if u go faster then this I don't believe u gain any flow as your already maxed out what the pump can do.... someone can correct me here

 

[ajmaxham]

I used a 5 hp 3450 rpm electric motor with a 16 gpm wood splitter pump on my wood splitter build. It is a Leeson catalog # 120554 - 230 volt - 20.8 Full Load Amp. I used the open drip proof motor because the TEFC electric motors were more money. I also put a cover over the motor and pump.

I built the electric motor and pump mounting bracket.

 

[wahoowad]

ajmaxham,

Does that coupling (love joy?) allow you to buy different size pieces to mate up different shafts? Where can I find them for sale when I get ready to mate up my electric motor shaft to the splitter hydraulic shaft? The Huskee uses that same design.

 

[ajmaxham]

Yes it is a love joy style coupling. My wood splitter pump is 1/2'' shaft and the electric motor is a 7/8'' shaft. Tractor supply has some of the coupler half but I think I got mine from Surplus Center. You might need longer hydraulic hose and hydraulic fittings that you can order from Surplus Center.

 

[bcp]

Electric Motor Size for Hydraulic Pump Drive

Electric Motor Size for Hydraulic Pump Drive | Womack Machine Supply Company

Bruce

 

[franklin2]

Here's a motor that should do it for $199.95. 5 HP 230 VAC 3450 RPM LEESON AIR COMPRESSOR MOTOR

Here are the lovejoys. The motor above has a 5/8 shaft. 5/8" L-099 JAW COUPLING HALF

If your pump has a 1/2" shaft, you will need this other half. 1/2" L-099 JAW COUPLING HALF

And this rubber spider. BUNA-N INSERT FOR L-099 JAW COUPLING

You will have to make a "L" bracket to support that motor vertically, since it mounts on the bottom.

Don't forget you will need a pretty big switch to turn this thing on and off. Surplus didn't have anything that would work besides a relay.

 

[crazyal]

I've bought the love joy connectors at Fastenal. They come in different shaft sizes as well as power ratings. The coupler on your splitter should have a number on in, something like "LO90" or "LO95". You should be able to just buy one end to match up with what came with your splitter. I think Northern Tools also sells them. I would replace the plastic insert. They do wear and when they die the steel couplers quickly get damage.

As for using an electric motor I would think all you would need to do is make a mount for the motor that will work with the pump's location. If you turn a motor so it's shaft is vertical you need to be careful that water doesn't get into the fan end. Worked for a company that found out the hard way that the water will ruin the bearings on some electric motors. We had a 3 phase motor connected to a fan for an inter cooler. We swapped it out to a single phase (easier to find power on job sites) and after the first year the motor seized up.

The other issue would be the best way to connect a switch up to the hydraulic valve. I would think using a low voltage contactor would work best so the wiring and the switches wouldn't need to be rated for high current mounted in a sealed box would work well.