Best Impeller Design
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SPIKER
Elite Member
Air foil type impellers are better for quietly moving large volumes of air and moderate pressurizing of a duct or box. For sucking up garbage a straight heavy blade fan with wider apart vertical blades is better. one with 6 to 8 blades of 3/16" thick or better is needed to deal with sticks. The center of the blades and impelled should have much shorter blades with the outside of the blade being farther away (height) from the blade backing plate. Both should have a bit of a snail exit that separates the first part of the suction form the exit of the fan.
Mark
Mark
hddnis
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As Spiker covered in his post an impellor that moves debris is different from an impellor that moves air. Angles and shape of the leading edge determine how the blade shreds, along with housing clearance. You can get more shred or an impellor that tends to just pass material through. A lot of material handling fans use a reverse angle impellor to sling material off and reduce wear on the blades. Not sure if it works as well as advertised or not. Another thing that has been tried is flails on the end of the blade or teeth attached to the trailing edge. Most of those designs tend to plug up the impellor.
If you are going to handle the stuff you mentioned in your post I'd go with straight radial pattern for the blades. You will be better off focusing on using heavy wear resistant plate, proper welding, and getting it balanced. Three or four blades should be plenty. You'll want to put a wear liner in the housing too.
Best advice, if you want to build it yourself, is to copy what commercial companies are offering. Read their specs and see how they do it. In the end buying a ready made unit is often cheaper and far easier. Sometimes you can get the fans cheap off of machines where the motor died and then adapt to fit your setup.
Mr. HE
If you are going to handle the stuff you mentioned in your post I'd go with straight radial pattern for the blades. You will be better off focusing on using heavy wear resistant plate, proper welding, and getting it balanced. Three or four blades should be plenty. You'll want to put a wear liner in the housing too.
Best advice, if you want to build it yourself, is to copy what commercial companies are offering. Read their specs and see how they do it. In the end buying a ready made unit is often cheaper and far easier. Sometimes you can get the fans cheap off of machines where the motor died and then adapt to fit your setup.
Mr. HE
Egon
Epic Contributor
Would not the impeller design be dependat on the entire unit design.
http://http://www.billygoat.com/Product-Categories/Detail/kv-multi-surface-residential-light-commercial
http://http://www.billygoat.com/Product-Categories/Detail/kv-multi-surface-residential-light-commercial
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This perfectly describes the impeller in my Woods VAC405 trailer vacuum. It has 6 blades made from soft steel (this makes it easy to straighten them when an oops occurs). My vac currently has a 6.5 Honda running it. This engine model has only two speeds: Full and Off. That was the reason It was on sale at TSC for $99.
I currently run this trailer behind a JD F-935 72" deck commercial mower. It sucks up leaves, twigs, branches, dog toys and an occasional brick which I use to line the edges of my driveway.
When I ran a 48" deck on my F-525, the 8" hose was OK, but with a 72" deck, I had to upgrade to a 12" hose to handle the volume. This meant a new inlet plate and hose attachment tube. When a rock goes through it, there will be some grinding noise for a while (I use good earmuffs to reduce the worry factor) and maybe it will require a blade straightening after this). Once the hose pulled off of the inlet and when I went to reattach it, the suction pulled off one of my gloves. Now I shut it down before any such operations even though I'm not a professional guitar or piano player.