Want a tie down fastener for trailer to go between deck boards

[George2615]

George I bet you moved back because of the "other" metal flange on top. A reasonable way to make your tiedowns very very strong is to add a plate on the bottom (with 4 holes). Drill 2 more holes ahead and add bolts that go thru the steel flange(s?). Use Self-locking nuts so its secure without having to squeeze down hard on the upper flange. Even a thin plate like 10ga, or 1/8" is very strong in this application.

The pics I posted are not of my trailer but from Etrailers website.
I don't have any tie downs mounted in my trailers wood floor. My tie down points are all to the frame of the trailers. The only thing I have mounted through the wood deck is a winch and only the back two holes. The front winch mount holes go through the frame. On the top and bottom side I installed 1/4" flat plate on all 4 grade 8 mount bolts. I do have a D-ring in the center of the trailer bolted through the wood deck but that is only to hold the winch cable hook when not in use and not a tie down point.

 

[newbury]

What I might do is just run my ratchet tie down straps thru the cracks, underneath and back up out. I was just hoping some one would know of something shaped like a t-bar.


But 4 gauge and with a "Ht" of at least 4" so I could drill holes in it. I could then slip the vertical between the wood from below and fasten it above the deck.

As it is my biggest piece of equipment, the tiller fits fairly tight and only requires a little blocking.

 

[George2615]

If all you are looking to tie down to the floor is attachments then any of the tie downs I posted in post 2 will work. I would not trust a wood mounted tie down to hold a tractor.

 

[bcp]

What I might do is just run my ratchet tie down straps thru the cracks, underneath and back up out. I was just hoping some one would know of something shaped like a t-bar.
View attachment 396233

Might be easier to find: have an I-beam cut down the middle, or 2 angles welded back-to-back.

Bruce

 

[Sodo]

One thing about tiedown points is they should probably be designed to accommodate someone who does not know which ones are weaker and which are stronger. I've had trouble in the past when folks are helping and you say "don't use that hook for THAT!". They look at you crosswise and are thinking "I wouldn't have no half-strength tiedowns on MY eqpt,,,,". which may be a lie, but still. :laughing:

 

[Mace Canute]

This past summer a friend had a couple of planks on his trailer come loose and one came of the trailer. Fortunately he noticed it when it come off and was able to recover it. The trailer is overbuilt to say the least but the planking was attached to the trailer deck cross members with screws installed from the underneath without coming through the top side. It looked good and the treated wood never deteriorated but the screws corroded completely through. I believe the wood treat hastened the corrosion.

Regardless of the condition of the wood decking or the strength of the planking you can never trust it to hold tie downs securely because the screws or bolts that attach it to the frame are susceptible to corrosion and they corrode at the interface between the cross members and the underside of the planks, a place where you cannot inspect them without actually removing them.

Only attach tie downs to a substantial part of the trailer's framework.