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  1. #11
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    76
    Location
    n/e Mo.
    Tractor
    IH560,ford2N ,H farmall and looking for more

    Default Re: driving T post

    I pushed a few hundred T posts in with an old TLB using the loader full of dirt. And I slid a piece of 2" pipe over the post down to the spade.. I pointed the 8" corner posts with a chainsaw and hammered them in the drilled 6" holes 3 feet deep. I figure anything you can do with a machine is one thing you don't have to do by hand. And I like machines.

  2. #12
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    516
    Location
    Princeton Tx.
    Tractor
    MF 1455v

    Default Re: driving T post

    I am like Harv, I tend to work alone. I just completed setting T posts on about 1000 ft of fence. I have got pipe stretch post about every 125 to 150 ft. Pulled a string line for the stretch posts and got the T posts started, streight and plumb by hand. Then after all were started I move the string to the top of the stretch post. Then took the FEL and aligned all T posts to the string. This put all off my posts the same hight on slightly uneven ground and never put anyone in harms way under the bucket.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    482
    Location
    West-Central CT
    Tractor
    Kubota L3130, LA723 Loader, BH90 Backhoe, Curtis Cab, || '82 Gravely 8199KT garden tractor

    Default Re: driving T post

    Hi...


    Anyone try driving wood posts with the TLB ?

    Diameter?
    Length? In ground ?


    Thanks...


    Dave...

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Posts
    1,390
    Location
    South Central Oklahoma
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L4610HSTC

    Default Re: driving T post

    First my experiences with T-posts then comments related to wood posts.

    I find that my kubota 4610HSTC with FEL will shove t-posts into the ground just fine with no ballast in the busket if the ground isn't too hard or rocky. If it is hard or rocky you can bend a post too easy and adding weight isn't the only answer. A pipe cut to the length of how much post you want left out of the ground will help keep the post from bending and gives you a gauge so the posts are uniform.

    There are two ways to use this that beats starting them by hand: 1. weld a handle 3-4 ft or whatever length you like sticking out to the side so your helper doesn't get too close to the action or 2. weld on tripod legs (one adjustable) to hold the post up with no helper. You can attach a couple strings with weights (like a plumb bob) at right angles to each other to give you or the helper a "gauge" to indicate when post is vertical on the handle version or the tripod version. The bottom of the tripod legs need "feet" so they aren't shoved into the ground too easily. the pipe itself is suspended off the ground in the tripod version so there is clearance for the "barbed spade thingy."

    A removable pocket that attaches to the FEL bucket (an inch or so of pipe in length and 3 in or so in diameter) will safely hold the top of the post from slipping from under the bucket. If you use too small a diameter of pocket it takes too much fussing to get it over the post. Previously I have raised the front of the tractor well off the ground many times in hard ground just before the post bends. This is why I like the pipe thingy. It helps prevent disasters.

    Based on my experience with T-posts, I'd say for wood posts you need a larger tractor than my Kubota 4610HSTC and most likely a fair amount of ballast weight in the bucket. If you can get a 3PH auger a bit less in diameter than your wooden posts to drill pilot holes then you could likely drive the post with a FEL bucket a whole lot easier and still have a snug fit for the post. This I feel confident I cold do with my tractor or a considerably smaller one. I don't think I could drive a 6 inch round post even if sharpened with my FEL unless the ground was dead soft, nearly mud. LIkewise a 4x4 post would be a challenge. If there were no rocks and the ground wasn't too hard AND I had a holding fixture to ensure no helper in danger and so forth, I'd still prefer to predrill the holes. I have had the tractor front up in the air many times with T-posts and the force required for a decent wooden post (4x4 or larger) is way more than a T-post.

    Just had an idea for a safer way to drive posts with FEL. A holding fixture that attaches to the forks with a chain or strap that runs up to the top of the post. This pulls the post towad the ground instead of pushing it, can't slip off, and you get an automatic depth gauge since you definitely will stop sinking the post when the forks hit the ground.

    [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]Pat [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

  5. #15
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    594
    Location
    mid-south idaho
    Tractor
    Kuota L3130, Ford 9-n, Allis AC, and a JD 4020 with powershift

    Default Re: driving T post

    I have used an FEL to push t posts in with great success. On wooden posts I have used a pile driver mounted to the FEL. This equipment was old when i got it and I can not find another one. I will keep looking as it was a great piece of equipment.


  6. #16

    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    272
    Location
    West Virginia
    Tractor
    Century 3045, Ford 2000

    Default Re: driving T post

    What about bigger posts? I need to drive in some for about 500 feet of guadrail. Any suggestions on planting posts in a bank made of rock-fill (starting about a foot beneath the surface of the soil) - if it's even possible?

  7. #17
    Super Member
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    5,809
    Location
    Wylie, Texas
    Tractor
    JCB165HF

    Default Re: driving T post

    You might have to have someone with a Texoma come in and drill it for you. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] Locally, north texas, they go for about a hundred and fifty and hour. But they can dig when most other methods can't.

    It isn't unusual here to find oneself digging into fill. The stuff you come up with often surprises you.

  8. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    34
    Location
    Yerington, NV
    Tractor
    YM1601D

    Default Re: driving T post

    I found this URL somewhere on TractorByNet a few months ago:
    Rohrer Manufacturing

    They make post drivers and seem reasonably priced.

    Regards,

    Bill Vorhies

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