Tightening up slop in tube gate hinge???

[Attono]

I installed a 16' gate across my driveway and an automatic gate opener. Works fine, except... As it hangs across the driveway, it is plumb and level. When in the fully open position, because of the slop in the tube gate hinge the end drags the ground. The opener is strong enough to overcome it, but I'd like to change out the hinges or fix them so there is less slop. Since the bottom hinge is welded on, instead of clamped on, I'm thinking of cutting it off and welding on a barrel type hinge. Not sure where exactly to get one that fits correctly OR if the tubing is too thin to weld using a mig.

Anybody been able to easily resolve an issue like this?

 

[Scott65]

I have several of these gates. Some have hinges slightly different than the others. So I don't know exactly the shape of your hinges. But I've fixed some of mine. There was enough open space between the gate and hinge pin that I was able to squeeze the flanges back together to tighten the loop. I did it with the gate still hanging so it would conform back to the shape of the pin. I used a torch but that might not be necessary. I had a custom made c-clamp already made for a special tool for my mechanic shop. It had tabs welded to the pressure points that fit perfectly to crease the hinge back together. But I could envision drilling and using a bolt to do the same.

Hope this made some sense, kinda hard to explain.

 

[TCJatko]

How about some kind of wheel on the sagging end like an all-rubber tire off a bush hog?

 

[forgeblast]

Gate Wheel with Suspension — 210-Lb. Capacity, 8in. Pneumatic Tire, Model# CT-GW01 | Gate Wheels| Northern Tool + Equipment

Northern tool has one with a spring.

 

[s219]

I guess I don't understand how it can be plumb in one direction and sag in the other, unless the axis of the hinges (hinge line) is not really vertical. Is it possible that the hinge line is tilted in one direction?

I have a 16' tube gate and so far it's been OK. For hinges, I have the collars clamped on to the gate, and the pins that lag into my wooden post. When installing the gate, I did have to tweak the pins to get the hinge line just right, so that the gate would clear the ground when across the driveway and when open. For the simple lag pins, it's a matter of turning one of the pins (top or bottom) in or out a turn.

I do know that the tubing on my gate is too thin for bolting stuff through, though a careful/skillful welder could attach stuff with a Mig. Just be careful grinding for surface prep, since the tube is thin (sanding would be best). They must make the tube as thin as possible to save on weight

 

[bcp]

A chain link fence dealer will have clamp-on hinges for all sizes of tubing/pipe. Maybe even your local hardware store would have some.

Put the new one above or below the welded one if you can't cut it off. Clamp on hinges can be rotated a bit to compensate for leaning or drooping.

Bruce

 

[flyerdan]

I'd first check the gate with a level when open to see if the hinge post might be off plumb a little. That, and make sure that the road surface isn't meeting the gate rather than the other way. If the terrain rises just a little it can be a clearance issue.

 

[weldingisfun]

If your gate post is tall enough, put an eye bolt near the top attach a turnbuckle with either chain or steel cable run out past the center point of the gate and attach the cable there. It will hold up the gate. I did that to our front gate and also added a tensioner spring. Works great.

 

[franklin2]

Is the post firm in the ground? When the gate is inline with the fence, the fence and the bracing help hold the weight of the gate. When the gate is at right angles to the fence, there is nothing really holding it except that one single hinge post.

 

[Attono]

I guess a picture is worth a thousand words, so...

Canted


Straight and level when closed


Droops when closed while level closed.


Bottom bolts is pushed out to allow for slack in the hinge.


Better view of bottom bolt pushed out.


You can see that I have the bottom bolt screwed out to get the gate to level when closed. The 2 bolts are perfectly level. The 6x6 post is set 4' deep in concrete. In order to get it so that it doesn't drag the ground when closing, I had to rotate the top mount, but that leaves it canted when closed. I'd prefer it to be straight and level in all directions. Seems the only way to achieve that is with bearing hinges.