Logsplitter 2.0

   / Logsplitter 2.0 #1  

rswyan

Super Member
Joined
May 12, 2004
Messages
9,723
Location
Northeast Ohio
Tractor
Kubota B2910, Cub Cadet Pro Z 154S, Simplicity 18 CFC, Cub Cadet 782
Back around ten or so years ago - before we got free gas - I was planning to heat with wood and I started to build a log splitter. Was going to be a three point mount for the tractor ... but powered by a (relatively new) 6.5 BS Intek engine I had from an old leaf vac.

Pretty much got all the parts for it and actually had the frame and 3PH fabbed up with the wedge, attachment point for the hydraulic cylinder, and table for the control valve all welded. Had the frame stored over in the woods about 300' from the house and some derelict came along and stole it apparently.

Recent (gas) furnace problems - and obtaining two very large (40" +) oak tree for firewood - have motivated me to start working on version 2.0 since it would be handy tool/resource to have. The only major thing I lacked was the H-Beam ... which I resolved the other day, courtesy of friend who hooked me up with the folks over at a fab shop where he used to work.

So I have the engine, the pump, the hydraulic cylinder and valve etc. to basically build the thing.

Judging from recent events, I probably should have moved on completing it about two months ago ... :D

Originally I was going to use a different hydraulic tank but I had 56" long piece of 1/4" wall 6" x 6" square tube that I had laying around and figured: Why not make that the tank/axle/crossbeam ?

So I drilled it and welded in pipe flanges and boxed the ends with some 1/8" sheet.

It should provide around 7.5 gallons of capacity, with an overall system capacity of around 8 to 9 gallons.

The H-Beam is a piece of wide flange 8 x 6 1/2 W28. It's almost 8' long - so it will have to be cut down to length.

IMG_1791.JPG
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #2  
Nice I too have been thinking about building a three point hook up splitter with its own engine, looking forward to seeing how you build yours keep us updated!
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Been trying to come up with a good way to remove rust and mill scale - preferably one that doesn't require a whole of time, effort, and user-intervention. Muriatic acid is presently not option due to the weather outside.

Was doing some reading the other day and ran across flame cleaning as a method to do this ... so decided to give it a try:

Appears to work fairly well ... although I'm not entirely sure all the mill scale is being removed. The following picture is a section of the H-Beam after I flame cleaned it and hit it with a wire cup brush in an angle grinder:

IMG_1796.JPG
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Picture shows three sections: untreated (near), hit with the oxy acetylene torch, and hit with the oxy acetylene torch and then wire brushed (far):

IMG_1797.JPG
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #5  
How did you clean the inside of the 6x6 square tube?

It looks like you have a suction port and return line port -- you will also need a fill and vent port in the top of the square tube. Maybe a drain plug in the bottom of the square tube.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#6  
How did you clean the inside of the 6x6 square tube?
I haven't yet.

When I do it will be with seven gallons or so of white vinegar - which works remarkably well at removing rust.

It looks like you have a suction port and return line port ...
Correct.

-- you will also need a fill and vent port in the top of the square tube. Maybe a drain plug in the bottom of the square tube.
The pipe flange for the drain hole is already welded in there (on the bottom of course) ... and the hole is cut for the vent/filler - it's on the other side of the H-Beam out of view. I'm waiting on a weld-on riser from Surplus Center for the vent/filler/strainer assembly so I can install it.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #7  
What pump are you using? IF an 11gpm 2-stage, you should be fine. But anything bigger and I would want more oil capacity.

And why remove the mill scale? Just knock the rust off and a good paint should work just fine for a log splitter.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #8  
It's nice to have a clean rust free metal project but there is little chance of that beam rusting through in your lifetime.

Build the machine and disassemble in the spring and have sandblasted.

Looks good! Fred
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #9  
You have a great impressive and quality project here. Complete it with a set of filters for both supply and return. I welded a 2" bushing into the tank for the filter to screw into. You can buy a return filter kit also.
Both will make your splitter last a long time!

jw5875
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #10  
Since it is impossible to totally clean out the inside of the beam as well, I would also advise a suction strainer as well as the return line filter.

Another question, how are you building? Are you attaching the wedge to the beam and pusher to the cylinder? or wedge to the cylinder and pusher to the beam?

I dont know if you saw my build thread, but may give you some more ideas.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/305998-my-logsplitter-build.html
 
 
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