setting up a duramax for plowing

[ishiboo]

Duramax ain't leaving my hands till the day it dies. And this duramax gets better gas milage then my grandma's 6.0 that's same exact body style.



Still not sure if I'm going to plow more then mine and 2 friends. But both their drives are big enough for a 10ft.

I HAVE 2 PLOWS. A 7.5FT AND 10ft

The 10ft is a experiment more then anything cause I traded it for stuff I didn't want. So that's no worry. And I do have parking lots that I might leave the plow at. Not sure yet

I understand it's just an experiment, just sharing some thoughts with you. It is likely much larger than the plow or vehicle manufacturer would want on the truck.

Here's a thought as well... If these are long farm driveways, a 10' does you no good as you have to come back down the other way anyway, right? I started out with a larger plow thinking it would save time, and found that with drifts, huge snows, etc... it was too much plow. My driveway is about 12' wide, about 600' from the road to the barn. A 7.5' plow does it in EXACTLY the same time as a 10' plow in regular snow, and less time for major snow/drifts as I'm not getting stuck, turned around, etc.

The parking areas may take a few seconds more, depending on what you all have.

 

[farm boy00]

I understand it's just an experiment, just sharing some thoughts with you. It is likely much larger than the plow or vehicle manufacturer would want on the truck.

Here's a thought as well... If these are long farm driveways, a 10' does you no good as you have to come back down the other way anyway, right? I started out with a larger plow thinking it would save time, and found that with drifts, huge snows, etc... it was too much plow. My driveway is about 12' wide, about 600' from the road to the barn. A 7.5' plow does it in EXACTLY the same time as a 10' plow in regular snow, and less time for major snow/drifts as I'm not getting stuck, turned around, etc.

The parking areas may take a few seconds more, depending on what you all have.

My farm plow truck is a 79 f150 with a v plow.

Just trying different things.

 

[crashz]

I apologize for any contradicting or repeated advice, as I did not read the entire thread.

A) If your Dmax has the plow prep package, there should be a beacon light switch in the dash to the right of the heat controls and just above the power port. The pig tail is behind the 3rd brake light in the roof. Makes easy work to put a light bar in. I like those mini LED bars, but they aren't cheap.

B) I would not recommend the 10 plow on your truck at all. We all have heard the claims of disastrous (and unfounded in most cases) Chevy frontend problems. But, they really do have a frame issue, just behind the upper A arms. The top flange tends to crack and propagate down. It happens to plow trucks, mostly with larger/heavier plows. Some theory is the reverse stress seen (tension at the top) when the plow is lifted causes this over time. To save your frame, I would only put the 7.5 ft plow on. This spans many years from the 90s platform (T800?) through 2010. I don't know if the newest frame design (2011+) has this issue.

 

[ishiboo]

I apologize for any contradicting or repeated advice, as I did not read the entire thread.

A) If your Dmax has the plow prep package, there should be a beacon light switch in the dash to the right of the heat controls and just above the power port. The pig tail is behind the 3rd brake light in the roof. Makes easy work to put a light bar in. I like those mini LED bars, but they aren't cheap.

B) I would not recommend the 10 plow on your truck at all. We all have heard the claims of disastrous (and unfounded in most cases) Chevy frontend problems. But, they really do have a frame issue, just behind the upper A arms. The top flange tends to crack and propagate down. It happens to plow trucks, mostly with larger/heavier plows. Some theory is the reverse stress seen (tension at the top) when the plow is lifted causes this over time. To save your frame, I would only put the 7.5 ft plow on. This spans many years from the 90s platform (T800?) through 2010. I don't know if the newest frame design (2011+) has this issue.

What years does that apply to? My 2004 had the plow prep and had no switch... just the wiring.

I wasn't aware that the 2001+ HDs had the frame issue as well. I can say without a doubt that the front end of my 2013 looks 4X as strong in that area that was prone to problems, I looked last year.

Being a farm truck with 400k miles, if his truck is subject to the issue I would buy the repair plates and weld them on BEFORE it becomes an issue.

 

[farm boy00]

I apologize for any contradicting or repeated advice, as I did not read the entire thread.

A) If your Dmax has the plow prep package, there should be a beacon light switch in the dash to the right of the heat controls and just above the power port. The pig tail is behind the 3rd brake light in the roof. Makes easy work to put a light bar in. I like those mini LED bars, but they aren't cheap.

B) I would not recommend the 10 plow on your truck at all. We all have heard the claims of disastrous (and unfounded in most cases) Chevy frontend problems. But, they really do have a frame issue, just behind the upper A arms. The top flange tends to crack and propagate down. It happens to plow trucks, mostly with larger/heavier plows. Some theory is the reverse stress seen (tension at the top) when the plow is lifted causes this over time. To save your frame, I would only put the 7.5 ft plow on. This spans many years from the 90s platform (T800?) through 2010. I don't know if the newest frame design (2011+) has this issue.

Relax its fine. Mostly the 5 pages have been saying ditch the plow.

No frame problems. Just checked and only thing with the frame is that the drivers side is covered in power steering (would go through around 1 quart a day) need to fix that too.

Frame still has paint on it. But with 400,000mi on it in sure it's been re done before.



Previous owner before my dad (gave me the truck for 5,000 for working with him) which is our best friend truck always got top Care to it no matter what until we got it and it now needs shocks steering fixed and tires.

 

[Colonel Monk]

Do you mean the flasher (it's called strobe now that I think of it) light? ?? I'm not going for one of those cheap one. Got a $6 one and the plug ripped out and you barely see it. I'm thinking of using the fog switch for aux.. lights. The truck has been used to plow a church and a house drive all its life so I'm not worried about the tans cooler.

I already know about the tires. Actually right now the tires are bald. I already I need good tires. The best around here are cooper's are the best and the mechanic sells them are 1 mile away

I'd be careful about using coopers personally..... I had a set of cooper discoverers on my 4 x 4 years ago, and found they used a stiff rubber compound. Stiff rubber is no good at all on snow or ice. I had to fill the back of that truck with sandbags or it wouldn't stop or get out of it's own way. YMMV... It was really cold that year and I was living in Houghton on the keeweenaw. 372" of snow that year too.... If your tires are already a stiff compound, having a really cold winter will make them even less pliable....

Not sure what plow guys are using these days, but in the old days Michelin was king for many of them. If you're plowing on pavement, the taller thinner tires seem to work best - but that wisdom came about when GM was still selling 15" wheels on everything and times have changed.

You might try http://www.plowsite.com/ for some info, it's a forum dedicated to plowing and lots of good info there. Like this forum, lots of good people as well.

 

[farm boy00]

I'd be careful about using coopers personally..... I had a set of cooper discoverers on my 4 x 4 years ago, and found they used a stiff rubber compound. Stiff rubber is no good at all on snow or ice. I had to fill the back of that truck with sandbags or it wouldn't stop or get out of it's own way. YMMV... It was really cold that year and I was living in Houghton on the keeweenaw. 372" of snow that year too.... If your tires are already a stiff compound, having a really cold winter will make them even less pliable....

Not sure what plow guys are using these days, but in the old days Michelin was king for many of them. If you're plowing on pavement, the taller thinner tires seem to work best - but that wisdom came about when GM was still selling 15" wheels on everything and times have changed.

You might try http://www.plowsite.com/ for some info, it's a forum dedicated to plowing and lots of good info there. Like this forum, lots of good people as well.

I remember that site.

Never had problems with cooper. And they are sold at are local shop so that's why I want them.

 

[crashz]

Ishiboo

That should apply to all of the GM trucks from 2001 on. 2007 and up have the switch in the headliner console though.

If your truck has the plow prep package, it should have the switch too.

 

[farm boy00]

Ishiboo

That should apply to all of the GM trucks from 2001 on. 2007 and up have the switch in the headliner console though.

If your truck has the plow prep package, it should have the switch too.

It has the switch but can't find the harness