LPGS For Kubota B2910

[rswyan]

Time to start thinking about the design for the next build and am looking for input from the TBN Brain Trust.

I know longer/wider is better for these things ... but I also know that there is a limit to what our little tractor will pull (30 hp gross, 22 hp PTO, around 1700 lbs for the basic tractor without FEL) ... I have a 5' Wood box blade that when full can slow it to a crawl.

I have some of the materials materials to get started:

10" C-channel ... looks to be either C10 x 20 or 25 - two pieces each 7' long

3/8" x 3" angle, two pieces each 6' long

2" Schedule 80 pipe - one piece 6' long

May also have some other odds and ends that I can use to cobble together the 3PH and other parts (thinking of doing a swinging tailgate, etc.) but I may have to pony up for some more material.

Clearly I was thinking of 6' wide when I cut the steel ... so I would like some feedback/input on how long to make the C-channel in terms of the overall length. I'm also open to reducing the width - if I can't reasonably expect to pull it with what I have.

Open to suggestions for any other handy features as well.

 

[ovrszd]

I used to have a B2910. 99% of the time it handled a 5' BB. I think it will handle a 6' LPGS.

I'm wanting to build one also. For me, I wouldn't think the 10" C channel is tall enough for side plates, if that's the intent. Also wondering if the 3" angle is big enough to fasten the cutting edges to?

Anxious to watch the build though!!!

 

[rswyan]

I used to have a B2910. 99% of the time it handled a 5' BB.

Yup ... only time I ever really had a problem was with the rippers all the way down and the box completely full of moist clay.

I think it will handle a 6' LPGS.

I think it will too ... assuming I don't build it too long (or too tall for that matter)

At a 7' length, I'm looking at 280 to 350 lbs, just in C-channel alone ... which is a lot of weight that far behind the pins.

I'm wanting to build one also. For me, I wouldn't think the 10" C channel is tall enough for side plates, if that's the intent.

Yup, it was the intent.

I had the C-channel from another project that got scrapped/killed before it was built and figured I possibly could repurpose it to a LPGS.

The other possibility would be using the C-channel to build a shop press.

I just measured the height of the side plates on my box blade and they are a good bit taller: 16" at the front, 17" at the rear ... :scratchchin:

Also wondering if the 3" angle is big enough to fasten the cutting edges to?

I dunno why it wouldn't be ... but I've never built of these either ...

Anxious to watch the build though!!!

Thanks.

 

[ovrszd]

I'd suggest contacting the County or Township or whatever form of government you have that maintains your gravel roads to see about buying a couple used grader cutting edges. They are usually in 7' lengths since most graders use a 14' moldboard. You might get lucky and get them given to you. I run a township grader for a pastime job. I have given away several used cutting edges over the past 25 years. One pair was to a guy building a LPGS.

 

[rswyan]

ovrszd,

That's a great idea :thumbsup: Dunno if the local city I live in has a motor grader in their fleet, but there probably several others nearby that do.

 

[oosik]

I'll second the idea of using motor grader blades. My BIL got me a brand new one - and its on my rear blade. The ones used by the county have a much higher grade of steel than you normally get. Bit of a PITA getting holes drilled but its heavy, in the extreme, and looks as though it will last forever.

 

[ovrszd]

No need to drill holes in them if building an implement to use them on.

 

[rswyan]

Another possibility is my next door neighbor - he's fleet maintenance mechanic for a local heavy equipment sales/leasing/rental place.

Just checked their website and they do have motor graders in their rental fleet.

 

[jenkinsph]

If you want to be able to use reversible 6" wide grader blades with the holes centered along its length then you should use a 4" angle for mounting. The 4" dimension has enough room to mount and bolt down with enough clearance. FYI, new grader blades 6" x5/8" thick new US or Canada made run about $25/ft.

The 10" channel is tall enough imo but it would help to raise the cross frame a few inches. With my skids both have 8" tall skids and I have yet to see dirt go over the sides. I would think it is more important to make smooth rolled edges at both ends as this will allow forward and reverse travel. I would suggest skids about 6' long overall length and 5' width for the grader blades.

 

[rswyan]

jenkinsph,

Thanks for the feedback.

I've been looking at pics of your builds (as well as reading various threads on other builds) and that was largely why I figured I could get away with 10" tall sides.

If you want to be able to use reversible 6" wide grader blades with the holes centered along its length then you should use a 4" angle for mounting. The 4" dimension has enough room to mount and bolt down with enough clearance.

Great point.

Have to see what I can come up as far as blades go, but I'm guessing that being reversible, all blades would have the holes centered.

Pretty much plan to make the cutting edges flush with the bottom of the side plates at this point (largely based on your reports)

FYI, new grader blades 6" x5/8" thick new US or Canada made run about $25/ft.

Good info ... but definitely not in my budget.

The 10" channel is tall enough imo but it would help to raise the cross frame a few inches. With my skids both have 8" tall skids and I have yet to see dirt go over the sides.

Right ... noted your comments re trash getting caught up.

Plan to put the cross frame on top of the side plates to avoid any obstructions.

I would think it is more important to make smooth rolled edges at both ends as this will allow forward and reverse travel.

I will likely trim both ends at an angle, using a large radius at the bottom ...

Something less than 45 degrees, with maybe a 2 1/2" or 3" radius at the bottom ... so there's no abrupt change to hang up or dig in.

Then use some bar stock (3/8" x 3" ?) bent to conform and welded in place to replace the missing flanges.

I would suggest skids about 6' long overall length and 5' width for the grader blades.

With the trimming of the ends I could probably get to 6' overall length at the ground (7' overall at the top)

And getting to 5' width is easy enough, if I go with 4" angle (3/8" thick ?) ... I'll just cut it to the correct width/length.

I'm guessing that your recommendation on these dimensions is based on your experience with two different-sized LPGS, on two different-sized tractors ... and what you think my tractor, based on it's specs, would be capable of sucessfully pulling ?