OP
Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,660
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
Thanks! Good detailed description. I definitely have a floating slab on top of brought to site and tamped fill.
Looks great want to do something very similar my wife also wants a screened in porch of the side of mine to over look the field so that would be a great option for the overhang, but less storage for memy tree line along my driveway looks like a used equipment lot so got to do something to get everything under cover.
Thanks to all who've complimented the build. I appreciate it!:thumbsup:
jabelding, Since you're in Maine, your frost solutions are similar to mine, you don't want frost heaving your slab/building.
And, what I had to take into consideration as well, on the far end where the horizontal 6 x 6" beam extends out from the building toward my stream/ditch and woods line, for enough distance from the trees to the shed, so I can maneuver the tractor 180 degrees to enter/exit the building without hanging up in the ditch or the trees.
I suggest, in general, giving oneself more space than thought necessary around ALL sides of any shed. This prevents possible entry/exit issues that can be taken into account before but not as easily after a build.
Site orientation, especially in places like Northern New England, is crucial to good year round use of sunlight, breezes/winds, and shading as needed.
In my case this shed is oriented perpendicular to my existing barn, which is about 75 feet away. This gives me an area I can plow, toward the back left side of the shed, (alongside the overhang posts) and in the same direction I already plow the snow around the barn; toward the ditch and woods. By using 4 posts along the side of the shed for the overhang I can drive alongside the left side of the shed from the front through to the back with the tractor, without clearance issues for the shed/posts/tractor.
I can also go between any two posts at right angles to the left side of the shed for placement of frequently used implements during the Spring/Summer months.
To date, as I get used to the shed and the benefits it provides, I've stored my ATV trailer at the far end of the overhang with 2 Kayaks strapped to it's tailgate for wind mitigation. I can pull this trailer out from it's tailgate if needed, but otherwise it will await my putting it out in the 'yard' when the bad weather is over - June? July?:confused3:
In front of the trailer is my QA plate, on PT 2 x6 shim pieces so it won't freeze to grade. Then last, but often needing quick access, is my FEL bucket.
Shed orientation keeps prevailing winds/rain/snow off these items, mostly, and FEL bucket access is fairly easy.
ALL other implements are in the shed interior starting with at far end by tree line: Tree shear, on pallet,
Box Blade on pallet, then QA 7' HLA plow, sitting on slab.
I left flat area for additional temp storage along the entire right side of the shed, for my boat and trailer and anything else needing a place to park out of the way.
The overhead door at the away from the woods end is on a remote, so I can drive up, open door from tractor station, then get off tractor to hook up the plow and start banging snow away from the house/barn/shed. Yeah.
This winter there was very little snow bnging on my part since I left mid-Jan to go away to the islands and am returning tomorrow to hopefully sun and warm weather! Ha, Ha. Anyone who lives in N England knows better, right?!
On the interior, I ran all the windows on the weather exposed side to allow for them to be open in good weather to allow for cross vent airflow and cooling/ventilation as needed for painting, project protection inside as needed.
I have a hole in the loft area flooring for access via a extension ladder, when the far bay door is closed. I installed a railing on the closer to front of shed end to prevent falls into the shed slab floor area when working in the loft area.
I ran conduit into the back left corner and up inside the slab to allow electric/Cat 5E to a sub panel from the barn for lighting, etc. I ran all outlets along the interior overhang wall side and switches to control overhead lights/exterior floods/spots are in a 5 gang box to the right side of the left inswing man door. Exterior lights on each overhang corner re on RAB IR sensors, and additional under the overhang area lights are on an interior switch.
One duplex outlet protected by an arc fault breaker is located outside under the overhang in the far end exterior wall for use when the shed is closed or I need to run a cord into the driveway.
I hung 2 4' LED shop lights above the center of the slab, and split a 2 gang outlet box to feed them and the other side to run the overhead door opener.
The LED shop lights can be daisy chained together for about 8 or nine units, IIRC, and they are VERY bright and throw excellent light far and wide, especially from about 10' high off the slab. I ran a circuit on a separate switch into the loft to add LED shop lights too.
I don't plan to ever insulate the shed, and planned it that way. It is essentially a cold storage area, though I could put a space heater in at times as needed.
For materials we used Advantech for the flooring in the loft and on the roof sheathing, as I recall. The rest of the lumber is standard 2 x's, and PT plates, etc.
The roofing shingles are architectural Harvard Slate IKO, same as house front roof and barn main roof. All other steep pitched roofs are on site built standing seam metal roofing.
Grace Ice/Water Shield is used on all overhang areas and a roofing underlayment of polyE type is on all other roofing areas. I installed a ridge vent, even though no heat is in the shed, to provide better ventilation year round.
I don't like doing painting, maintenance on various buildings, my house included, so I went with pre painted Hardie board siding to match my barn. And PVC corner boards and all window/door trim.
This ups the cost significantly, BUT it saves on maintenance BIG time, so in the long run I feel I'm way ahead.
For instance I stripped and resided my entire house and new addition in 2009, as well as building a barn/apartment/boat bay, and I have yet to add a drop of paint to any of it. This year the house will need a cleaning and sanding and 2 top coats, possibly due to its exposure to the sun and the light green color it's currently painted.
The barn, which is the exact same red as the shed, looks brand new. No fade, no peel, no chalking whatsoever. It's amazing to me it can stand up to the incredibly brutal New England weather with out a sign of wear!
Note: It was pre painted at the factory, and given a top coat within 90 Days to maintain the mfg's warranty.
CM out, for now....
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