advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation

   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #1  

jim_wilson

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Northeast MA
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Kubota B3200 w/ BH77 & 12", 18" & 24" buckets, Kubota B50 SSQA w/ 54" & 60" buckets, LandPride FDR1660, Artillian Fork frame, Extreme 3pt rake, Concrete Mixer, MyTractorTools grapple adapter
Now that it is the end of snow season I finally managed to score a snowblower for my BX. It came with an electric motor for the chute rotation - but I would like to add something to manipulate the chute deflector at the top of the chute too. I did a little research and it looks like the way to do this is to use a linear actuator. What I would like to use for a control is a joystick - figured doing this would make it very intuitive - up-down on the joystick is up-down on the chute deflector - right-left is right-left on chute rotation. Anybody have any advice on where to source these parts (joystick and actuator) . I did some searching on Ebay and found linear actuators, only info I could find on a joystick was marine joysticks.
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #2  
use a reverse polarity switch

to use a joystick you'll need a controller and a actuator with a pot.

this could cost as much as your snowblower.

if you want more control you could get a custom actuator made that moved slower.

on another note once adjusted i don't think iv'e ever changed the position of my chute deflector
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #3  
Could be possible to use a joy stick controller like this slick stick to run some relays to rotate & move deflector.



Tom
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #4  
On my blower I used a wheelchair motor to turn the chute.

The control is a simple rocker switch (could have been a 'bat handle' as well).
Switch is a double throw, center off, spring loaded, double contact switch that cost a mere $5.00.
The switch is wired to act as a polarity reverser!

I installed 2 of them in provision for the eventual mounting if a linear shute acuator.
However, as mentioned by another poster, once adjusted I found that I really don't need to change the shute adj .
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #5  
Not to rain on your idea, but I would agree with the other two posters who pointed out that adjustment is rarely needed. In fact, I just welded mine in position. I worked out the best angle at 38 degrees, and made a couple cuts into my chute, rewelding it to make the angle, and the top flipper is also welded on to finish the corner out with a short flat section, at the 38 degrees up from horizontal. This gives best compromise between best range and least snow blowing in the air. Now it works perfect. You may have circumstances where you want to change that angle, but I don't so I cannot imagine what might drive the need.
If you are set on doing it, consider the smallest hydraulic cylinder you can find, like a 1" by 6" or so, available from Surplus Center for only $40-$50. Adding hoses and fittings may about double the price, but once done it will work for your lifetime without maintenance. You will not get the electrics to last as long as hydraulics, IMO.
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #6  
I agree that chute deflector angle adjustment is rarely needed. Having designed linear actuators into many systems, I would say that you need a fairly strong (expensive) one to do what you want. Most are not designed for the type of weather conditions that a snow blower faces. If I had to do it I would not use hydraulics unless I already had a spare remote port mounted close by. I would probably use what looks like a hydraulic cylinder, that actually is a screw jack cylinder and has what looks like a hydraulic cylinder with a small 12V DC electric motor mounted piggyback on it. I use one to dump my Cub Cadet Big Country, by reversing the polarity it goes up and down- no mess no fuss.

Andy
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #7  
We needed to install one on a JD 59 blower on a 4310 for the next village over,, they needed it for doing the sidewalks in front of people's houses. Here is a picture of the actuator we used, obviously this was a fairly large one. I have sold a couple smaller ones for smaller snowblowers also, but I think at a price of almost $200. They are electric, 12v... simple.

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

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   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #8  
I found this 12 volt Warner Electric screw jack (linear actuator) model MCSD on e-bay, to big for my application, may work for you. It is at $25 at this time.

web page
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation #9  
Another source:

Remember the old satelite dishes? the 10 and 12' jobs that most cities wanted to ban?

Well they used a 2ft linear actuator that was 24 VDC powered.
Recently I was asked to take down an installation and got to keep the actuator.

It will make the neetest dump cylinder for my trailor.

My bet is that I could even cut it shorter for whatever length I might need.
Power to spare even on 12VDC.

But as I said before, I so rarely adjust my shute angle that I plan to simply install a large turnbuckle for the rare times that I might need it.

Also a fellow can simply (what I do) slow the throttle setting for less RPMS when I go past a delicate item. That or reposition the shute to miss that item (mail box?)
 
   / advice on electric snowblower chute manipulation
  • Thread Starter
#10  
If I thought that I could get away with not adjusting the chute deflector I would just find the best position for me and leave it there. Unfortunately I am reasonable constricted space. I know from my experience using a regular hand push type snowblower that I was constantly adjusting the chute rotation and the deflector to put the snow where I wanted it without burying my house, the neighbors driveway, or blowing the snow back in my face. Because of that experience I find it hard to believe I won't be doing the same thing with the blower on the BX. I want to use electric because the blower already has an electric chute rotation - instead of having both electrics and hydraulics going to the blower I would like to have it as simple and as easy to hookup as possible - using electric chute deflection means I can make this one simple hookup to the tractor using a trailer wiring type connector. By the time I add the hydraulics with the hoses , valves, cylinder etc - I am probably looking at least $200 which is the same $$ as doing the electrics with the good quality piece a previous poster mentioned. I already have the high output alternator on the tractor - I might as well use it for something ..
 
 
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