pull type grader

   / pull type grader #1  

Dirtnut

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2004
Messages
243
Location
North Central, Pa. USA
Tractor
Kioti LK3054w/cab
well i finally got a start on my pull type grader today. it has a 7' blade & will be 9' long. i cut the 3pnt hitch off of a rear blade i got cheap a few years ago & will be converting it to a pull type. it will have hydrualic tilt that will work off of the rear remotes & 2- 15" wheels behind the blade. it will hook to a draw bar on the 3 point hitch that will lift it up & down for grading. not sure if i want to use a ball or hitch pin yet,the frame will need to roll side to side when tilting the blade the ball would act like a trunion. i am not sure if a pin would work for this. can anyone give me some input on the pin possably working. or will there be to much twist on the pin? i dont know what the weight will be yet but guessing it will be about 800lbs hope my tractor will handle it /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif i am going to add a brace to the blade swival pin low on the blade back to where the wheels will be mounted to help take the added stress. will also need to make some kind of adjustable brace to help the lock pin when angleing the blade. open to suggestions here. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif will post pictures as i progress. any suggestions are welcome /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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   / pull type grader
  • Thread Starter
#2  
another pic.
 

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   / pull type grader #5  
Some new balers are using a swivel ball such as the replacement end for lift arms. That way, you can just drop a hitch pin though the ball in to the drawbar and not worry about the implement swiveling and twisting side to side.
 
   / pull type grader #6  
If you look at graders through the years, once they were motorized they became fairly long pieces of equipment. The reason is it's easier to level a surface when the blade is hung off a longer frame. Several companies make add-ons for back blades that accomplish the same thing. Depending on your needs, you might want to review some of the existing designs to help figure out a good suspended length which would be measured from the tractor hitch to the support that contacts the ground behind the blade.

For a hookup, a swiveling pintle on the tractor drawbar with a lunette on the grader would work. Northern has the bolt on lunettes along with the channel mount. You wouldn't really need the channel. Might be bit heavier than you're looking for but it would give a 360 swivel.
 
   / pull type grader #7  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you look at graders through the years, once they were motorized they became fairly long pieces of equipment. )</font>

We use "land levelers" here where leveling is critical in rice fileds. They are pull-behind, and the wheelbase is huge. Never measured one, but I know some must be well over 20'. When it comes to leveling, there's no substitute for wheelbase. The blade needs to be as close to the midpoint of the wheelbase as possible.
 
   / pull type grader #8  
Agreed. The wheel base makes all the difference in the world. You don't need 20' of it behind a tractor for small stuff, but when you're leveling stuff like rice paddies, it's essential.
 
   / pull type grader
  • Thread Starter
#9  
i started this thread a few years ago on a pull type grader i was building. i did finish it other than paint. i apologize for not posting on it for so long been working in another state for two years only home on weekends and fell behind on TBN. plus been working on other projects to. it sure is nice to catch up on what is going on these days on TBN. hope i can remember how to use this sight. i got the grader out today to grade the hard pack snow on my driveway to smooth it out,thought i would take some pictures.
 

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   / pull type grader #10  
have blue can you explain why the blade needs to be as close to the middle as possible? i would of thought it needed to be as far to the rear? thanks
 
 
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