Fence Posts

   / Fence Posts #1  

Holzster

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Messages
267
Location
North Texas (40 Miles South of OK)
Tractor
Kubota L4330 HST
I had a post a couple weeks ago asking if anyone has seen the plasic round posts any more, to find out the they do not make them any more.
So I will use round wood posts at 10' spacing with 4' no-clime fence (twisted not welded). This might be an obvious question but would the post last much longer if I tared the part of the post that was under ground?
 
   / Fence Posts #2  
<font color="blue"> I had a post a couple weeks ago </font>

Yes, this is the link: Fence Posts
 
   / Fence Posts #3  
You didn't say if your posts were PT or plain locust.
At any rate, I believe that putting tar on the post will make it last longer. I also believe that if you do a search on fence posts you will come up with several methods from several different members on the "correct" way to bury a post underground. Now we can add puting black joe on the bottom of the post because I do believe this is the first time I've read that method. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif, but perhaps Gatorboy can come up with a link showing where this was mentioned before... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Let us know how it works 70 years from now, but I know if I was putting in more than say... one fence post, I would just put the thing in the ground and figure it will last as long as I need.
 
   / Fence Posts #4  
We tried tar on oak post and they rotted quicker, 3yrs. I have been told not to put anything on the very bottom of a post as it prevents the water that gets in the grain from draining out. If you use tar , I would only tar the sides. There are pvc sleeves that cover T post, they cost about $3 ea. I dont know what you are fencing in, but I have the no-clime fence and a horse got hung in it the other day and it was ugly. I am pulling it all down and replacing it with HTP made by centaur. You should check it out. Its $135 for a 1320 rol and is tough as heck.If your interested let me know you can also reas about iy at hoover fence, no insulators needed.I have had better sucsess with rough mill pine treated 4x4 post than with any other. Good Luck!
 
   / Fence Posts #5  
Hi Holzter,

Been researching this all winter and just started fencing. We have cheap spruce round posts locally. Also I got a good deal on oak and ash 4x4x8' posts. The round posts will be used in the wooded area with 3 rails plus a cap rail. The square posts will be used in open/public areas with 3 rails plus cap.

I used copper II preservative. It replaces the CCA preservative. It is not harmful to you or the environment. It has been used in europe close to hundred years. A major USA wood preservative company is using it to replace the arsenic chemical.

I sprayed the bottom half of the post with copper II let it dry for a day or too and painted the entire post with driveway sealer (acrylic - black) paint.

The rails will be painted as well. This is my third type of fencing - should have started this way but didn't!

I down loaded all the whmis and safety pdf's files I could find from the manufacturers and various university and government orgs to confirm non hazzardous environmental concerns.

Bakor is the driveway sealer and Osmos is one of the manufacturers for the copper. I bought a local generic brand - cheaper - but compared it with the Osmos brand - same contents - 2% copper plus naphate.


Hope this helps.

Osmos does make a coal tar (toxic) base post preservative. You use it 6" above and below grade on posts to prevent rot. It is about $60 per gallon canadian.

I also checked into cedar, pressure treated (arsenic), plastic based materials. All very costly. I have 12 acres to do plus all paddock areas and a limited budget.

regards,

lloyd

PS: copper is a problem for sheep I hear.
 
   / Fence Posts #7  
This isn't an answer to your tar question, but we have hedge growing on our farm and use it for fence posts. There are some posts that were put in more than 60 years ago and they show no sign of rot - even when they are pulled out (I had to pull one 3 weeks ago).

We laugh sometimes and tell people, not only will the hedge not rot, but it also hasn't shown any sign of rust. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Too bad you live so far away, we recently did some bulldozing and have a limited quanity of hedge to sell.
 
   / Fence Posts #8  
If it is a PT post.. I'd sink it, and at most.. paint the very top with asphalt paint, to prevend hollowing at rain rot.

If it is a non PT post..I'd get a bucket of copper napthenate dip, and dip each post before setting. the CN will allow moisture movement.. but is otherwise toxic to fungus, and bugs.. etc.

Soundguy
 
   / Fence Posts #9  
Hey Soundguy...took your advice and did the pavement paint along with copper napthate.
Only 258 more posts to go to complete perimeter. I figure at least another 200 for paddocks.

Thanks again for the tips.

lloyd
 
   / Fence Posts #10  
That's good stuf.. both the asphalt paint and the copper napthenate.

Since I've moved in, both my neighbors have now had to replace fence that had rain rotted tops of otherwise good posts. Mine havn't even changed a bit since I painted the tops.

Soundguy
 
 
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