3-Point Ballast Weight to offset Front Loader

[California]

I just saw on ebay the best poured-concrete type ballast of any design I've seen.

See the attached photo, from auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=4384641599
(Yanmar YM 1300D 4x4 Tractor with Loader, Location New Jersey)

The main thing is that his weight is low, and real simple to attach. Just drop the 3-point and drive forward until it hooks.

Minor improvements I might add: a rack to hold cinderblocks for more weight. Also I would pour it in a plastic tub so the tub bottom reduces scuffing on the barn floor and the tub's upper rolled lip makes a bumper to avoid leg gouges. With these improvements, it would be perfect!

[johnday]

Cal; The basic idea is good. But a couple things. Those J bolts look pretty flimsy, and I think it's way too low, like in dragging the dirt. Also, that thing is going to swing on the hitch, and if you lift it so it won't drag, it's still going to swing. That much weight swinging around could set up yourself to throw your pants in the laundry. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

Does give me a few ideas tho. Use I bolts with long shanks, and rig up a connection to the top link. I'm gonna give this a little more thought for myself. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Jim_in_Omaha]

Concrete is great. I made a weight for a middle buster that I converted into a trenching plow for drain tile. It weights around 200lbs. I then made a yard roller using the 12" dia. form tube. Its 4 foot wide and weights in around 450lbs. Still not quite heavy enough but it does smash clay clods if there is some moisture in them. Clay around here is about like the concrete [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

thx
Jim

[have_blue]

Yes. yes... instead of J bolts, use 3" x 1/4" thick strap stock with a gullet cut out to fit the bar. Drill some holes in the straps and add bolts and nuts to anchor them in the concrete before encasing them. Take a hunk of 2" strap and bend it to a long skinny "U" shape, drill the open end 7/8" (or whatever) for the hitch pin for the top link, then cast in it into the concrete.

Jeeze... all that work defeats the purpose. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

[Soundguy]

Here's one I made.



Soundguy

[Bob_Skurka]

Soundguy that is a MUCH better solution than the one on Ebay that doesn't have any top link connection.

The Ebay unit would swing and sway and scare the living heck out of me, in fact I would consider it dangerous to use as a counterweight because the swaying would constantly change the center of gravity and balance of the machine, even if only by a few inches. But with a fully loaded FEL that 2 or 3 inches of sway could cause way more grief than it would be worth!!! I doubt I would even want to use it on flat ground.

[Osconda]

Soundguy,

How much does your ballast weigh? What size drum is that and how tall is it?

[California]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( that thing is going to swing on the hitch -johnday)</font>

I agree swinging would be unacceptable.

It looks to me that as the 3 point arms rise beyond horizontal the front edge of the block becomes wedged against the arms.

To prevent swinging and add ground clearance let's make the anchors close to the block surface so the back of the counterweight will tip upward as the arms raise. Also cast a chunk of lumber into the top surface of the block for a soft interface between the block and the underside of the arms.

Sturdier construction - sure, that 1300 is a tiny tractor and anything bigger would need heavier anchors. Maybe a steel strap curled to the diameter of the lift bar.

The essence of this design is that it rests on the ground when not in use and can be attached without getting off the tractor. If the anchors were made correctly you could engage it by driving forward with the arms sliding along the top of the weight until they engage.

Back to the drawing board...

[schole]

Thank you for an excellent post, California. Although it may need tweaking, the concept of back up and drive away is a very attractive one...

Nice work, Soundguy.

These will help as I build mine.

Shawn

[cisco]

How about a simple box blade? That's what I have on the 3ph of my tractor when I've the FEL attached. Yes, the brush cutter is heavier (700 lbs), but the box blade suffices for most situations --- and most of us with tractors have a box blade hanging around.