Homemade Subsoiler Ripper for MiddleBuster

[OkieG]

The TSC MiddleBuster I bought did not come with a Subsoiler point. The threads about laying wire and water pipe with a Subsoiler have fascinated me, and now, a friend has some old water pipe to replace with plastic. So, this is the perfect time to make a tooth for the MiddleBuster frame.

One thing I've noticed is that many of the dedicated Subsoilers have a longer piece of main vertical flat bar than MiddleBusters do. I guess that allows them to cut deeper into the dirt.

The heavy flat bar on the TSC MiddleBuster is too short to just put a tooth on and expect to cut more than about 6" deep. I can't make the flat bar longer, but I made the tooth long enough so it just clears the ground by a couple inches with the 3PH all the way up.

It looks a little unconventional, but I'm anxious to see if it will work to lay water pipe 12" or so deep.

Picture attached. Toplink is shortened for a better view.

OkieG

 

[LetsRoll]

I would reinforce it more. I can see it breaking off if you dont. There is going to be God know how much pressure on that point.

 

[OkieG]

Thanks,
You could be right. It's times like these that I wish I could remember anything from my college engineering courses.

Got any ideas? I've reinforced the point every way I could think of.

OkieG

 

[HGM]

Looks great....

I would just add vertical straps on either side between the tip and middlebuster.. Like a roof truss, if you cant visualize how I explained it..

 

[3RRL]

I'd do at least as HGM suggested. .. To re-inforce it a little more I'd consider sawing a piece of 1" steel and fitting into that (about) 150° anlge between the tip and the arm. That thickness will also give you more lateral strength so it reduces sideways bending too. Weld along both sides with heavy gusset.

 

[RobJ]

Well the angle looks pretty good so it looks like it'll pull itself into the ground, you can adjust it further with the top link. But I'm not sure it'll clean the hole out good enough to lay in a 10 or 20' piece of PVC. Maybe use this to create the depth then run the middlebuster to clean out the holes. I've used a semi-homemade MB to make some nice and quick ditches to divert water.

Good Luck,
Rob

 

[OldMcDonald]

Sorry I cannot post pics, but I have been using one for a few hours each day for a week, and with a much simpler configuration. Long story, but officialdom decrees that I have to plant my new olive grove of 1 hectare (2.5 acres) before 30 April and not 31 Dec as I wanted, so I had to build a ripper in a hurry. I took a piece of 4" x 3/4" steel, then cut a triangle of the same about a foot long and welded it to the base to give a penetration angle. The bottom is cut back to give about a 20 degree point down. Welded 3 x 3 angle iron onto the base in a wing formation (need to keep hardfacing and "touching up" every half day) and drilled three quarter holes at 6" spaces up the shank. I have a tipping link box I made and the tipping mechanism is a two and a half square box attached to the top link of the tractor and pinned at the bottom so that with a removable top fastening pin, the tpl is raised, and the box tips. I cut a hole in the square tube about a foot above the base of the box, to take two pieces of quarter inch plate, put a 3/4 top link pin through the tube and the two pieces, and drilled other 3/4 holes in the two pieces to suit the ripper shank, fixing this with a 3/4 bolt. I am presently pulling it easily at 12" depth in very solid clay with a 4" tough plough pan starting at a very shallow depth and pulling up stones and old tree roots that I can barely lift - remember I eat porridge for breakfast! The design shown is likely to break off, and anything you add to it just complicates things. I see no problem in going deeper on the next pass, and could probably have gone 18" on the first if I did not have so much hidden treasure. I am travelling in 1st Medium on a 12 speed box of a NH 45hp. I have it in 4wd, but tried today in 2wd and had no problems. I have not needed the diff lock. I can try to explain a wee bit more if need be. Old McDonald.

 

[OkieG]

Thank ya'll for your input. My tractor is under 2000# w/o implements and packs a wholloping 24hp. It can't generate the forces larger tractors can. Getting to full depth with the subsoiler takes several passes, or else the tractor groans or tires spin. My short test runs seemed not to damage anything.

For those with any interest, I am posting a few more pictures.

The "tooth" is a length of 1 1/2" solid square steel bar. The bar is oriented so a corner is facing forward.



OkieG

 

[OkieG]

A double layer angle iron cap is welded to connect the tooth to the front of the bracket.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Finally, a 3/16" triangular brace is welded to the back side of the tooth and the under side of the bracket. If this monstrosity of questionable engineering doesn't survive, I'll let you know.

OkieG