weld rod advice

   / weld rod advice #1  

Soundguy

Old Timer
Joined
Mar 11, 2002
Messages
52,238
Location
Central florida
Tractor
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I'm going to be working up a small project on a few afternoons this week, and
want some opinions / advice on choice of rod to use and on some other variables.

First, equipment. i have available, a 70a campbel hausfield 120v stick welder and a (shiny brand new! ) Hobart Stickmate lx 235a stick welder ( both AC only ).

Rod on hand:

6011 & 6013 in 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 1/8

7014 (ac )and 7018 (ac ) 3/32, 1/8

I've only had the hobart for about 6 weeks now.. but really like it, and have gotten used to it. I've had the small buzz box for about 4 ys, and am also pretty good with it when welding sheetmetal and small tack jobs. I've used an old lincoln buzz box and have sucessfully welded with 6011, 6013, and 7018 in a few different applications, including making a big honking ramp for my trailer to load my 4000# jd-b.. so i know the welds were good.. or good enough.

In any case.. i need to weld some 3/16 and 1/8 plate to some 1/2 bar stock, as well as weld some 1/8 to some 1/8 ..90' but joints, no access to back side.

All work will be 'in position'..

In the past.. i didn't have a real choice.. I'd have reached for the 70a box and the 6011 rod and just taken my time. Now that I have a real welder and a couple other rods to choose from... any advice? 3/32 rod in 7018 ac or 6013 ? 90a?
I don't want to burn thru.. so figured 6011 might penetrate too much on the big buzz box..
metal is clean.. no rust, no paint.

Waiting for the advice to pour in!

Soundguy
 
   / weld rod advice #2  
If the 1/8 metal is clean"no rust" I' duse 6013 3/32. If much rust then I'd use 6011 1/8. I use 6011 1/8 for most anything. If it really needs to be good I'd weld a root pass with 6011's then grind and weld a pass with 7014, that is assuming everything is AC. If DC I'd use 6010's and 7018's. I seen enough of your work to know it will be right no matter what we tell you here. Like my Dad always said listen to everyone's advice then do what you know is right. Works for me, Later, Nat
 
   / weld rod advice #3  
I will bite,

My place, it would probably be 6011 1/8" AC rod for most everything.

6013 if I want "dress" welds, or thin problems. (or if I am trying to show slag peeling back.

7014 is fast fill fast freeze I believe it is and is sometimes called bad fit rod but from the sounds of it you should not need this.

7018 I only use if there is some high strength or odd need, but normally the 60 series is stronger then the base metal I am using, so I do not need to deal with the complications.

My 2 cents.
 
   / weld rod advice
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the ideas. I have a few questions, and observations.

I too, use 6011 mainly, due to the deep penetration, and the surface quality of the materials I weld sometimes are less than ideal,.. though i do try to prep the metal as best as possible, as I know the weld is greatly influenced by the prep.. etc.

Now. I've just had my big box for a few weeks now, and thus have just now been welding with 3/32 and 1/8 rod, so forgive me if this is an obvious question. But if I'm welding 3/16 and 1/8 plate I think i may burn thru using the 1/8 rod.

Would then that indicate 6013 and 3/32 ? ( the 6013, being less penetration.. hopefully it will both look better, and not burn thru as bad ?? )

Soundguy
 
   / weld rod advice #5  
Yes, the 6013 or the 7014 and a smaller Dia rod will help with thinner materials. But 3/16 and 1/8 I would probably just go with the 1/8 rod and back down my amperage a bit if needed.

How hot are you burning?

Rule of thumb is an amp per thousandths of rod dia, but that usually works out way too hot for me.

I am also assuming reasonably good fits here (touching, no big gaps)

If you ever want the in depth Arc course, go hang out with my Dad in Paisley for a day. You can talk tractors and burn rods to your hearts content. It is so much easier sometimes to do it hands on with someone then to struggle at it alone. He is set up to do pretty much any process you want except sub arc.
 
   / weld rod advice #6  
If you're burning through and you are using 1/8" rod by all means go to 3/32". There is nothing wrong with using a 3/32" rod. On 3/16" steel it will hold everything you need and more. Watch your amperage & your travel speed.
Like AlanB said it's so much easier if you can have a coach starting out. Save you alot of fustration. They don't call it stick welding for nothing. If you were closer I would be more than happy to show you.
 
   / weld rod advice #7  
If you are burning thru , and the heat isn't set way to high you just need to move faster. I welded the floor in a trailer that was 14 ga. and welded it with 6011 1/8. I make a stiching movement and move fairly fast. You can go down to 1/16 rod and move to slow and still burn holes is 1/8. HTH, Nat
 
   / weld rod advice #8  
I build a lot of stuff, and seldom have a weld fail. Most of the stuff I build is over engineered, the material is oversize, and the welding is overdone.

I use 6013 almost exclusively. Nice easy welds and look good. Mostly 1/8", some 5/32", and a few 3/16".

I use some 6011 if I have a critical weld to make that requires good penetration.

Ron
 
   / weld rod advice
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for the info guys.

No, I havn't actually had a burn thru.. just over planning so that i don't have one. I've had great luck welding thin gauge steel with a 1/16 rod on a 30-70 amp 'auto' setting on my lil' box... I have plenty of scrap flat stock from fabbi9ng up some stuff with the chop saw. i think i will try a few rod / size/type / amp settings before i go to make a weld on my current project. ( worked inthe past on the lil' box.. now I just got to get used to the big box... )

Soundguy
 
 
Top