Hydraulic box blade teeth?

[Chris2]

Does anyone have any ideals on using a ram to operate the scarifying teeth on a box blade? I did a search and only found one that used a ram to operate gear driven teeth, it looks very nice but probably more than I can build myself.
Could I weld the top of the teeth to a heavy piece of flat bar with a short A-frame (to spread the load) welded to the top of the flat bar and use a ram to move the teeth.
Any advice would be helpfull, thanks

 

[ovrszd]

I'm planning to build a BB so have collected a lot of pictures. I only have one that shows liftable teeth other than the several that I kept of 3RRLs project. The picture I've attached might give you some ideas though. I really like 3RRLs idea but I'm like you, not sure my mechanical abilities and shop equipment could support such a project.

 

[MadReferee]

Go to the websites of the various manufacturers and download their operators and parts manuals for the box scrapers that have hydraulic scarifers. Then take a look at how they are put together and copy that design. I did that for soil pulverizers and that's what I plan on doing as I already have several manuals.

 

[Chris2]

Thanks for the advice and picture.

 

[accordionman]

SIR,
there was a member that built a hydraulic assist
on his box blade. i cannot remember his user name.
he is a toolmaker, or machinist, and he designed,
and built this. of course he had all the tools that
he needed to work with. it was a very nice job,
and he had a video of this. very impressive.
perhaps if he reads your post, he will reply.
accordionman
wlbrown
wright city, mo.

 

[accordionman]

SIR,
if you will go to projects, and scroll down you will
find this person. 3RRL. click on his username, and
then click on his homepage, and scroll down to
hydraulc scarfier. this is what i was refering to.
it will show what he has built.
accordionman
wlbrown
wright city, mo.

 

[3RRL]

Does anyone have any ideals on using a ram to operate the scarifying teeth on a box blade? I did a search and only found one that used a ram to operate gear driven teeth, it looks very nice but probably more than I can build myself.
Could I weld the top of the teeth to a heavy piece of flat bar with a short A-frame (to spread the load) welded to the top of the flat bar and use a ram to move the teeth.
Any advice would be helpfull, thanks

Hi Chris,
When I built the gear driven scarifier mechanism for my box blade that you saw, I started out thinking exactly like you. The problem I had was working with the boxblade I already owned. It had the scarifiers already going through the main front beam but they were separated by the lift pin connections on each side of the 3pt bracket. The bracket also got in the way. I don't know what kind you have and you may not have the same problem?

In order to get the "flat bar" as you describe to all the scarifiers I had to section it up into 3 pieces and propel each piece ... using the gears and shaft. I realized that each "set" of scarifiers needed a frame of some sort so they would move up and down all together. If you attached your flat bar across the tops of all the scarifiers you would still need a frame for them so they can move up and down and stay located above the holes or slots they are in now. I was also afraid of "binding" when retracting or pushing down on the long bar, in case it flexed. Then you would have that "Chinese Finger" affect.

ovrszd posted a picture of his boxblade that already has a handle to pivot the teeth down or up. That's how most of the hydraulic ones are made. His would be very easy to modify by attaching a bracket from the pivot to a hydraulic cylinder. He is lucky in that respect. I thought about doing that but there was not enough room behind the front bar and the back blade to allow my scarifiers to pivot. My box was not deep enough. So I did what you are thinking about, except used the gear mechanism.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Here is my idea on combining the designs shown: Use a sizeable tube over the scarifiers to resist bending and twisting. At each end of the tube a pivot arm is welded to the tube and pinned to the rear of the box blade. the tube will travel in an arc and the scarifiers need to move straight up and down so a shackel is used to connect the tube to each scarifier. By shackel I mean something like the rear connection between a leaf spring and vehicle frame. I am attaching a crude sketch. If the tube needs to be higher to clear the 3-point braces you can use longer shackels.

 

[ovrszd]

Here is my idea on combining the designs shown: Use a sizeable tube over the scarifiers to resist bending and twisting. At each end of the tube a pivot arm is welded to the tube and pinned to the rear of the box blade. the tube will travel in an arc and the scarifiers need to move straight up and down so a shackel is used to connect the tube to each scarifier. By shackel I mean something like the rear connection between a leaf spring and vehicle frame. I am attaching a crude sketch. If the tube needs to be higher to clear the 3-point braces you can use longer shackels.

Yeah, if you look at the picture of the Cammon box blade I attached above, it functions like you have described and drawn. As 3RRL said, it could easily be converted from handle operated to cylinder operated. That's the design I'm going to build. Seems to be simple, straightforward and does not require any high tech manufacturing skills. I considered a rotating beam until I saw the Cammon design.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

The difference between my drawing and the Cammon is that the Cammon rippers are pinned directly to the tube with no shackels and the ripper channels are open in the back to allow the rippers to swing back as the tube travels in an arc. My design is geared more toward modifying a standard box blade where the rippers must move straight up and down within the clearance of their channels.
Check out the lower ripper supports Rob (3RRL) added to his ripper channels. Those should be compatiable with the geometry I've sketched but they would not function properly with the Cammon design.

Brad