PTO stump grinder

[Chris2]

I am planning to build a PTO stump grinder, I have looked at several models and they all have a stabilizer foot at the bottom of the 3ph to set the grinder all the way on the ground and adjust cutting depth using the top cylinder. I already have TNT cylinders and was planning to use the hydraulic top link to adjust the entire 3ph for cutting depth but that would not allow me to lower the 3ph on a stabilizer foot since I would be rocking the entire 3ph to push the grinding wheel into the stump, the weight and stress would be entirely on the lift arms. This would save a good bit of time & money eliminating one hinge point, hydraulic cylinder, hoses and connections, but would it be too much for the lift arms.
Thanks for any advice.

 

[Renze]

That depends on how high you make the lower link arm attachment above the field level (or: the height of the support leg.)

If you dont put the tractor on the brake, the lower link arms wont even notice.

i have been thinking of making a brush rotavator, made from heavy gauge steel drum with hardened teeth on them, like a rotavator but just a bit heavier. that would work for me, for brush cutting, tree clearing, and shredding or mulching any organic waste, like ditch slick, with reed and other tough plants in it.

I have too many other projects going on, but this way the idea has time to ripen before i find time to actually build it.

 

[sandman2234]

Not sure which version of stump grinder your looking at, but I would say that the foot may be to give it some stability. My wanna-be stump grinder could use some stability and a foot on the ground would help.
Why don't you post a link or picture to one like what your discribing?
Wish I had seen this when you first posted it. I came right down I-49 and could have stopped in and seen it for myself!

David from jax

 

[montanaman]

Guess I may be confused by what you wrote but I've had tooo much coffee today!

Why not build it just like the one you saw and use the cylinder that you have for the top link? In other words,use a standard top link and use your top link cylinder that you already own to feed the grinder. You will no doubt need to use longer hoses but it you mount the cylinder with top link pins, it will be quick to switch back.

I understand if this is confusing cause I'm confused at this point!!!

Ken

 

[SPIKER]

I would think that if you are grinding old half rotted stumps then the 3pt links would be OK but subject to stresses induced when the grinder hits a GOOD spot in the stump. also if the stumps are GOOD/NEW then it is much more stresses to cut the NEW fresh wood or slightly dried stump but 100% solid would be worst...

hitting rocks ect may be a extra burden if not designed right it could well damage 3pt link arms or even cylinder inside tractor... How much will it cost to repair tractor links arms??? now how much to add the extra steel & foot assy that the grinder would set on??

personally I would go with a frame mount of some type to prevent stressing the 3pt assy... just like back hoes use the feet to prevent the tractor frame from taking all the abuse the stump grinder COUL impart MORE abuse due to sudden impacts with hard materials, just my thoughts...

mark M

 

[Renze]

I think you just need to make the frame heavy enough so that it has enough inertia to prevent it from bouncing when it "grabs" on the log.
The weight will stop it from bouncing around and vibrations. That will save wear and tear on both the grinder drive, tractor and 3pt lift.
Oh, and dont forget to make the grinder disk heavy enough so that it works as a flywheel. Makes it run much smoother.

 

[SDStock]

The thought of using a 3pth stump grinder is enticing. However, I own a Rayco 1625 Super Jr stump grinder that is self propelled and weighs in at almost 1400 lbs. When running full tilt and hitting granite (almost anywhere I go here in NH) it will jump and bounce. I would not recommend using a stump grinder just on the lift arms without a stabilizer system of some sort in contact with the ground. All that vibration and sudden jolting could not be good at all for the lift arms or the pto if using one to power the cutter wheel.

 

[RonMar]

You will probably find that those feet are also to keep the cutting wheel from digging in from dragging the tractor backwards/forwards. With PTO engaged, you can't leave the tractor in gear so that leaves only the brakes to hold position unless the grinder frame engages the ground in some fashion.

 

[river rat]

We elected to buy a used grinder, rather than make one. It has stabilizer feet, and raise/lower as well as right/left swing are accomplished by hydraulic cylinders. After using it a few times on green stumps, I wouldn't be anxious to tag that big (38") toothed wheel into a large stump without any stabilization except the 3ph arms. When it's cookin', there's definitely some serious stress going on; the one we chose, BTW, is a Shaver SC50. Great tool! It looks almost identical to the Woods SG 100.