DIY Home built compact tractor

[slowzuki]

I wouldn't think the front end would be welded. You have to get up into quite large tractors before you even get a foot operated front locker. Locked front end makes a mess on grass too even if the 4wd isn't engaged and his will be always.

 

[rockinmywaypa]

I'm wondering how this project is coming along. I'm gathering pieces to build my own and have been watching this one with interest. brakes were discussed and I got to wondering if a person could put electric solenoids in the brake lines going to the wheels so that they could press a button and lock up one side when they press on the brake pedal, sort of like stopping the flow to one set of brakes so that they continue to drive while the fluid is directed to the other side causing the brakes to engage.
Keep us updated on your progress, please

 

[dbdartman]

I'm wondering how this project is coming along. I'm gathering pieces to build my own and have been watching this one with interest. brakes were discussed and I got to wondering if a person could put electric solenoids in the brake lines going to the wheels so that they could press a button and lock up one side when they press on the brake pedal, sort of like stopping the flow to one set of brakes so that they continue to drive while the fluid is directed to the other side causing the brakes to engage.
Keep us updated on your progress, please

They are called "line-locks" in the auto world. Actually, they are electric check valves.

In a car, you have the option to put one in either the front brake system, or the rear brake system. In front, you orient the valve so the flow arrow points down-stream (towards the brakes). To use them in this configuration, you activate the valve with a push-button, hit the brake pedal, then let the pedal up. The check valve keeps pressure on the front brake cylinders/calipers (leaving the rear free to spin) until you release the button. In the rear configuration, you point the flow arrow up-stream (towards the master cylinder). To activate, you press & hold the button, then push & hold the brake pedal. Activating the line lock like this BLOCKS fluid to the rear wheel cylinders/calipers, so as long as you hold the pedal down the front brakes do all the work (& the rears are free to spin)

Set one in each rear brake line, with the flow arrow pointing up-stream, so when one is activated it blocks flow to that rear wheel. It would mean that the left solenoid would be activated by the right button, & vice-versa.

IMHO, pretty easy to do & might even work well.

 

[GT2]

I'm wondering how this project is coming along. I'm gathering pieces to build my own and have been watching this one with interest. brakes were discussed and I got to wondering if a person could put electric solenoids in the brake lines going to the wheels so that they could press a button and lock up one side when they press on the brake pedal, sort of like stopping the flow to one set of brakes so that they continue to drive while the fluid is directed to the other side causing the brakes to engage.
Keep us updated on your progress, please

I'm still waiting for my wheels !

I plan on using two master cylinders and twin pedals, one for each rear brake.
The pedals will have a simple latch so they can be operated together or seperate.
If I lose rear traction on one wheel I can operate that brake and cause a sort of traction control.

 

[Renze]

The two brake traction control you described is alike the modern ASR wheelspin limiter on SUV's that lack a real diff lock, only your version is foot operated instead of electronic

 

[KentT]

I'm still waiting for my wheels !

I plan on using two master cylinders and twin pedals, one for each rear brake.
The pedals will have a simple latch so they can be operated together or seperate.
If I loose rear traction on one wheel I can operate that brake and cause a sort of traction control.

You can then also use them for steering brakes, like were commonly used on old farm tractors. With today's HSTs and their internal braking, it's becoming somewhat of a "dying art." Just hold pressure on the individual brake on the inside of the turn, and the tractor will turn around in less than half the normal distance. This was common practice when "row-cropping"...

You'd latch the two pedals together for transport, but when actually working the tractor, you unlatched them and used them individually for steering and for "diff-lock" situations...

 

[crbr]

Simply amazing. What a wonderful thing to watch....


A nice project indeed.

Reminds me a bit of the episode of Andy Griffith where Goober disassembles / reassembles the car in the Sheriff's office as Floyd sits nearby, patiently observing... Simply amazing...

 

[MossRoad]

....
The pedals will have a simple latch so they can be operated together or seperate...

That latch is a "must have" item if you have any ground speed that is higher than a fast jogging speed. If you are on solid surface like a road or driveway, going along at a good speed, and accidentally hit only one brake, you can instantly be turned sideways and then over you go. My International 2500b manual says to engage that latch any time you are in high range when transporting the tractor on roadways.

 

[ZJ_HR]

Only purpose for separate brakes will be to "act" a diff. lock.
You can forget for decreasing turn radius, as this machine will be heavy on the front, low front steering angle, and will drag rear wheel. Believe me, on my both 4wd tractors, it do the same (even bigger one has brakes ond both axles, front and rear, separated).

Separate brakes helps on 2wd tractors with big steering angle, like as on old Ford N or MF135.

 

[KubotainNH]

Any updates on this? It's an interesting project.