Grader

[laurencen]

Well after reading all the information I have built a grader that works very well, the sides are 14 x 40 inches 3/8 plate, the edges are wrapped 2 x 3/8 flat and channel between sides, I used 4 x 1/2 flat to mount used grader blades on, the blades were worn out 7 footers from highways, once worn they scrap them, cutting them down to 49 inches and turning them over there is still life in them and the price was right, all other fabrication was scraps. Total cost well under $200.00 and 20 hours fabrication.

Laurence

 

[laurencen]

a few more pictures, one shot after using on the yard, it was orety rough, looking back I would have made the front blade angle less to facilitate it cutting easier, I may get the cutting torch out and burn a slot every couple inches sort of teeth. Next up is a tree planter, any ideas would be appreciated, for this grader I have notes used for construction if anyone wants them

Laurence

 

[RedRocker]

Looks great, doesn't match your tractor as well as it does mine though.
You should give it to me and build you another one!!

 

[laurencen]

Hi Red, the paint was left over from my stock car racing days, at the time figured it would be a closer match, the other choice is flourecent green and did not want it compared to Kermit, would anyone on this forum have the color code for Kioti orange,

 

[sandman2234]

The only one of these I have looked at is Wayne Freeman's, and his used angle iron for the grader blades to mount to. For anyone contemplating a project like this, it would seem a better choice, especially if they are subject to hitting rocks or stumps buried in the area that they are working. I realize a grader blade backed by flatbar isn't likely to be bent unless overpowered by a large tractor, but my Dad swears I can tear up a steel ball bearing with a rubber mallet, so I try to overbuild things.
Nice job, and there isn't anything wrong with that paint job. It could use some blue stripes added to it, in true Gator fashion...
David from jax

 

[gboudreau]

Very nice job. where did you get the information to build this one?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

laurencen, your grader looks great, and it looks like it works very good also. How much do you think that it weighs?

 

[laurencen]

Hi Brian, the weight is 350 to 400 pounds, the middle blade is 3/4 inch below the rails, set at 30 deg, the 4 x 1/2 has a 3 x 1/2 welded to form a angle, the front blade will take all the impacts, rear blade is level with rails. There is a aditional 2 x 3/8 tacked to the bottom, if it wears it can be easily replaced, my CK20 easily pulls it in third low and feel it could have been a foot wider with no issues, only thing I will do is torch some slots in the front blade about 2 inch apart, this will help the front blade bite however adding another 100 pounds may do the same, rocks in the ground are the issue but one idea is to add 6 adjustable teeth to cut in front of the blade maybe 6 inches from the front, this could be set about 3 or 4 inches down, it would loosen rocks and break hard ground.

Laurence

 

[RedRocker]

I had English color mix me some paint, but it seems like Chevy orange is close enough for most things. A grader is one of my many "future" projects.

 

[Tig]

Great job Laurence
Thanks for discussing the details. I'm building a grader and it's nice to know your thoughts. I am planning to notch the front blade like this \_/\_/\_/ and then follow with a straight blade, both set 3/4" deep.

 

[yzbdsbp]

laurencen now that is one of the nicer blades i have seen on here.....I also am wanting to build a grader and would consider it an honor to have the notes you made on your grader. Again very very nice job.

 

[LetsRoll]

Laurence...thats a good looking grader you built there. You sure did brace the top supports allot. I had thought about more braces when I built mine, but after seeing some commercial grade graders, decided against it. You cant go wrong useing cutting edges, specially on driveways or road. They are the cats meow.

 

[laurencen]

Hi all, the notching the front blade is a must in hard packed conditions but I would caution about havint the back blade down the same as the middle blade, I would raise the back blade 1/4 inch if doing it again as there is quite a bit of material dragged over the rear blade now, also the skids run at grade so by setting the back blade down the grade will allways lower, just my opinion, the front bracing, yes the main force is pulling on the lower pivots, I did not cary the plates thro to the back channels but the 2 x 2 tube looked flimsy all by its self so along came the bracing, still think it would benifit from a extra 100 pounds, I will clean my notes and attach them in the next couple days when I can scan them in

Laurence

 

[sandman2234]

Seems as though notching the front blade would allow roots and things to get hung up in it. I noticed the crack between the end of the blade and the side of the grader was always getting stuff hung in it. Something to think about before you torch those holes. I think adding weight is a better approach to the problem, but we have soft soils here.
David from jax

 

[soarkrebel1]

That looks good!! I think I need one.
Why did you go and give me another idea for a project when I don't have time to do the others I have on my plate!

 

[montejw]

Great job Laurence
Thanks for discussing the details. I'm building a grader and it's nice to know your thoughts. I am planning to notch the front blade like this \_/\_/\_/ and then follow with a straight blade, both set 3/4" deep.

You want the back blade flush with the side skids. The front blade does the digging, the back blade does the spreading.

Monte

 

[Tig]

I was actually planning on having a third blade (flush or perhaps up 1/4") to do the final spreading.

 

[3RRL]

laurencen,
Great job in fabricating your grader. Top notch work man.
You said they were scrap blades from highway use? Where did you get them then, what source?

 

[laurencen]

Hi Rob, here in Saskatchewan we have Department of Highways, also city services, they use graders for road maintainance, tons of gravel roads, they replace these blades regulary, I asked what they do with the old blades and they scrap them, looking in the yard found 10, 7 foot blades, cost me $10.00, they were cut down to 49 inches and turned upside down, the worn side up, some graders can use the second edge but most can not, the blades were worn from 6 inches wide down to 3 1/2 inches, it does not matter as I used 4 inch flatbar for support, they will last years for what we do, I think better than welded edges, you need bolts available from a Cat dealer, they cost $1.25 each with nuts, there are 8 bolts for the blades but you could easily use 4 and still be OK

Laurence

 

[3RRL]

Laurence,
Thanks for the reply. I will contact my department down here in Southern California to see if they such a "grave yard" for old blades. I want to build one like you did.