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  1. #1

    Default Negotiating for a New Holland

    I'm planning on purchasing an NH TC33D with FEL. Two dealers quoted me about the same price, $17,700. I think I read in the "Compact Tractor Guide" on this site that sometimes dealers will go 10 to 15 % below list. Its hard to imagine the dealer dropping 10% from $17,700 to $16,000. does anyone have any recent experience negotiating for a better price with NH? Is there any way to figure out what is "List" and "Factory Invoice" for this model?

    Also I'm leaning torwards getting NH's "R4-Industrial Tires." The dealer claims they won't mess up the turf when finish mowing like Ag tires would and have reasonable bite for loader work. Does anyone have experiece with this compromise between Turf and Ag tires.

    Last Question: Are there any options that really need to be ordered when you get the tractor that I should be considering? (Things that are hard or expensive to add later, The "D" model has 4WD, HS Tran., delux 3Pt.Hitch etc. already)

    Thanks for the Help

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    193
    Location
    Mexico City
    Tractor
    NH TC21D

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    Newland - In found my NH dealer much more interested to negotiate when presented with bids for competitive tractors - Go speak with your Deere & kubota dealers, tell them what you're thinking of buying, get them to write you a quote for their similar machine, take those qutes back to your NH dealer...

    Options:

    Engine heater? (if you're in the north). Either a coolant block heater and/or an oil pan heater are good.

    Mid PTO? ever plan on running any mid-mount of front-mount implements?

    Rear light? Only if it's cheap. You can buy one from your local ag store. Perhaps a "throw it in on the deal" item?

    Extra rear-facing hydraulic circuit?

    Perhaps some TC33 owners might have some additional/better suggestions.

  3. #3
    Bronze Member poman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    58
    Location
    Bonham, TX - Fannin County
    Tractor
    NH TC33D

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    I recently, in October 2001, I purchased a TC33D with fel, R4 tires, a 5' Woods finish mower and a deluxe rear blade for $19,000.

    poman

  4. #4
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    1,561
    Location
    South East Michigan
    Tractor
    New Holland TC30 Hydro 4x4, Gravely Zero Turn Mower

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    I have four local New Holland dealers. I got four prices for the same setup you're looking at. $17,700, $17,750, $18,500, $19,100. These prices were with R4 tires and heavy duty bucket.

  5. #5
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Posts
    576
    Location
    NC
    Tractor
    NH TC35D4

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    Newland, Almost 1yr ago this week, I purchased my tc35d.
    I would get the grill guard for the FEL, keeps most anything from coming off the loader into your expensive grill.

    As far as lights go, unless they are real cheep from the dealer, you could do it in 30min yourself. The OM has great electrical diagrams that even a novice could figure out how to connect it up...

    Also, I would recommend the HD bucket for your FEL, my STD bucket was on the cheep side.

    But, in the end, you've got to be willing to walk away from a deal that is not what you want to pay. Look on the internet for other dealers in your area. I found a dealer in the next state that had a great website and gave me a email price that I took to the local dealer...If he didn't beat it...I was willing to walk...

    Good luck...
    gary

  6. #6
    Epic Contributor
    R.I.P.
    jinman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Posts
    21,014
    Location
    Texas - Wise County - Sunset
    Tractor
    NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    Newland, the TC33D loader-ready tractor lists for about $18,800 and the 7308 FEL with a heavy-duty bucket lists for approx. $3,000. The prices you quoted already have a substantial discount from list price. 15% off the prices above is common and 20% off is normally only found in "package deals" where some implements may be included. Hope this helps.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    Jim...

    Ya mean to tell me, I can't get 20% off list and then another 20% off of that...[img]/w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif[/img][img]/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif[/img]


  8. #8

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    Jinman,
    This is incredibly helpful. The dealer just quoted prices so I had no way of knowing that he was already offering a discount from list. Thanks for saving me from false expectations and an unrealistic negotiating position. Speaking of false expectations, I've never owned a tractor before and I'm assuming owning one makes life a new and wonderful experience, giving renewed appreciation for outdoor work, brings a sense of completeness and total satisfaction and helps eliminate world hunger. Is that about right???

  9. #9
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    2,385
    Location
    Michigan
    Tractor
    New Holland TC40D Supersteer

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    It also cures male-pattern baldness.



    Well, maybe not - but if you're on your tractor, who cares?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    1,003
    Location
    Vermont
    Tractor
    NH TC33D

    Default Re: Negotiating for a New Holland

    I bought a TC33D w/FEL last summer. I eventually got them down to $17,500 for the 33D, 7308 FEL w/heavy duty bucket, R4 tires (filled w/ CaCl), and a block heater. The cheapest quote I got was from a dealer a good ways away for about $17,000. I went with the local dealer for his good reputation for service (I ended up paying $17,700 for a different brand FEL).

    Options to consider with your TC33D:

    Heavy duty bucket (the standard duty does not hold up well)
    Block heater (unless you are in a warm climate)
    Rear Hydraulic Remotes
    Ballast (either filled rear tires or wheel weights)
    Other implements (generally get a better deal if bought with the tractor)

    The R4 tires have worked well for me. They do mark the grass if I'm on it when it's wet/soft, but they don't really tear things up (I'm not picky about my lawn anyway). If you are concerned about finish mowing, the tendency to mark the lawn can be helped be several things: Mow in 2WD, minimize the weight by removing the FEL and any unneeded implements or ballast, mow when the conditions are right (i.e. not very wet or soft).

    If you won't be doing a lot of heavy loader work or labdscaping with rear implements such as a box blade or rear blade, you MIGHT get by without any rear ballast. I filled my rear tires, but you may want to consider wheel weights, which can be removed when mowing (I did not want to deal with the hassle of putting them on and off).

    The rear hydraulic remotes are usefull for running hydraulic implements (such as a log splitter), or to operate a hydraulic top-n-tilt setup on your 3 point hitch (this has been a BIG time-saver for my box blade work).

    John_Mc

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