JD 3720 vs K L4240 Opinions?

[john_bud]

Thanks for the replies!
I think initially, we were just comparing the two tractors based on equivalent engine HP and PTO HP. We definitely wanted something over 30 PTO so that we could use a six foot medium to heavy duty shredder. I guess I didn't look at the physical dimensions enough to see the size difference, but it is interesting that the JD specs are equivalent for a 3 cyinder engine vs the 4 cylinder in the Kubota.

First quotes (no haggling) on both tractors are over 30K with the JD coming in slightly lower. We didn't actually want to get into the pricing thing as yet, we were more concerned with whether we are looking at the right size and power. We have read a lot of the posts here and one thing that rings consistent is "don't buy not enough tractor!"

We are very interested in hearing about AG vs R4 tires, wet clutch vs dry clutch, direct vs indirect fuel injection, Mohawk vs Rhino shredders (Mohawk seems to be popular here in central Texas, as the manufacturer is located here.)

We have much to learn!

Thanks!!

Hi,

You posted some questions. First off, the L4240 and other equivalent machines with cab will be able to pull a 6' medium duty cutter. No problem. In your heat, a cab with AC will make mowing much more comfortable!!!

Filling the rear tires improves balance, traction, stability. It also makes slightly deeper ruts. Not much deeper as the psi increase is slight. (weight of the machine / contact patch of the 4 tires). Only rarely will the mfg not want filled tires, typically if a back hoe is mounted. Tractors work better and feel much more stable with filled tires. Fill'em up!

For your uses, you may be fine with R4's. If you have wet slick ground, R4's will clog up with muck and turn into no traction slicks. R1's won't, but R1's will rut up all but real firm ground. If you have thorns, R4's may be better for puncture resistance. Then again, thorns are nasty....

Direct vs indirect injection. It's all marketing hooey. Look at the PTO hp and the fuel used per hp generated. For all practical uses, there is no difference. 3 cyl vs 4 cyl. There is a wee little bit of difference, but again, just look at PTO hp and torque raise graphs - almost identical.

Wet clutch vs Dry. A dry clutch that is not abused or misused (let your foot rest on the peddle is the worst abuse there is!) will last 4-6000 hours. A wet clutch will last 6-10,000 hours. If the clutch is in front of an HST transmision - they won't wear out. They may rust or have a materials failure, but they won't wear out. Basically, all you use the clutch for on an HST tractor is to start it and to engage the pto.

You didn't ask, but Wet brakes vs dry. Wet are better, last longer stop better with out over heating. Dry brakes can be changed with ease, just take off the wheel and it's just like a car's drum brakes. Wet brakes require more major dissasembly. If you have hst, you won't use the brakes much so they will last about forever. The hst will slow the machine when you let the peddle up.

One area to look at, is the turning radius. Tighter is better. Even a 1' tighter will make the machine feel more nimble.

Good luck with the purchase!

jb

 

[elgin4420]

Thanks for all the great feedback!!

One big question on tire filling... does everyone do this themselves, or do we get the dealer to do it?

z-michigan mentioned Rimguard, do others have experience with this? We would prefer to use something non-toxic and non-corrosive. I'll be looking this up on the net right after I post this.

Thanks
mike..

 

[elgin4420]

I thought of a couple more questions.

On the FEL Bucket, we're thinking HD no matter which brand we end up with; what I'm wondering is should we get the bolt on edge and bolt on tooth attachment? I've read some on aftermarket attachments, but sounds like you have to modify your buckets to mount them (at least drilling holes and maybe some welding).

Also, we are thinking HD on the box blade, but have not discussed brands yet

As always, your opinions mean a lot to us!

Thanks
mike..

 

[Z-Michigan]

Most people get the dealer to fill the tires. It may also be done by other businesses, for instance in my area the Farm Bureau Co-Op provides that service.

Rimguard is an easy choice if it's available at a good price. In my area everyone has it and it is the cheapest option other than plain water (which no one, NO one, uses here). I understand it is harder to find as you get farther from sugar beet country. I have heard that there is another nontoxic product, I think made from a canola oil byproduct, but I don't know if it's available in the US or only Canada. I personally like knowing that my if my tires leak out their 1500lbs of fluid it will cause no harm to my well or my animals (rimguard can actually be used as animal feed). Now, 99.9% of the time CaCl won't harm your well or your animals either, but it's corrosive to steel and nasty to handle.

 

[wolc123]

To give you some perspective on the corrosive effects of Calcium loaded tires: My JD M was loaded by the dealer when the tractor was purchased new by my grandad in 1950. In 2001, one rim finally rusted thru and I changed them both out at that time. I think this is blown out of proportion by many on this forum. If you are keeping the tractor more than 50 years it may be a concern, otherwise not, and definitly use a tube. Calcium weighs the most and is the cheapest making it the best option for loading tires in my opinion. Many dealers will not deliver tractors with front loaders without loading the tires.

 

[putt_putt_green]

I have rim guard, and am happy with it. Like Z-Michigan, I live in Michigan too.

I have a toothbar and think it is great. I've never taken it off, but could see the use to take it off sometime. You can always get a toothbar later.

As far as implements go, I believe its better to buy what'll work the first time. It cheaper to just buy the MD or HD implement from the get go, then it is to buy the LD implement, and later replace it with a MD or HD implement later.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Down south here, where freezing isn't much a concern, many will put plain ole water in the tires. Can't use it if it is kept outside and freezes up though.

 

[dynasim]

If you choose the TC45, you will be happy. About the only non-dealer related complaint is that 45 hp isn't enough for a cab and an HST, but I think that is a matter of choice.

NH has an online parts identification(and some dealers have on-line ordering).

Get the one that has the best price for the performance, if you can find a good dealer. You don't need a babysitter, but you do need a dealer who can fix your tractor if it breaks, and won't lie. You can tell.

Chris

 

[ArkLaTexSam]

I purchased a new 4320 cab with 400x loader(wish I got the 400cx) and r4's just over a year ago. I have my wheels set in the widest position and still use my old MX5 cutter. I'm saving up to get a 7 foot cutter. The cab is priceless and it's pressurized which helps me with my breathing problem. I've never had a problem with the r4 tires and they are better on the hills and ditches than the r1's as far as i'm concerned. I've used the r1's on the exact same hills and ditches and several times the r1 tires nearly rolled off the rims causing a skidd problem when on a slope. The r4's provide much more hill stability(have u seen what the loggers use on their skidders and their terrain is much worse). The only downside with the r4's is that their wide track does cause grass-weeds to lay down a little more when cutting. With 4-wheel drive I've never been close to getting stuck. I did get stuck with the r1's and had to use my loader to push myself out of a slick spot. Weight is a good thing when it comes to tractoring so load those tires up. The r4's will hold more liquid so u get some extra weight. The r1's are a great tire but I don't want to be sitting up any higher than I have to with a $6,000.00 cab as it increases the tilt factor and makes it a litter harder to get under trees. If you don't have steep hills and tree branches hanging down all over the place, then go with the r1's.

I'm telling about my own experiences with the tractor I now have and I'm not against any make of tractor. I looked at them all both times I had to tractor shop and they are all comparable. I went with JD because the dearler is right down the road, he takes care of his customer, and the JD cab was far better than the others. He beat all other brands on price hands down.

Now for some advice. When u decide on the tractor u need as far as brand, engine HP, and PTO HP, go purchase the next level up. U will find that the extra HP will be benificial later on in your tractoring adventures. On the other hand, If your going to be operating in wooded areas with tight spots u might stay with the smaller tractor otherwise go with a larger set up such as a 4520 or a 4720 or similar other brand tractor.

I've said enough. Good luck with your new tractor.

ArkLaTexSam

 

[art]

Thanks for all the great feedback!!

One big question on tire filling... does everyone do this themselves, or do we get the dealer to do it?

z-michigan mentioned Rimguard, do others have experience with this? We would prefer to use something non-toxic and non-corrosive. I'll be looking this up on the net right after I post this.

Thanks
mike..

Mike, we sell a couple of hundred tractors a year. Less then half of them have liquid ballast even with loaders. Many have been satisfied with the liquid ballast but that doesn't mean that it has been proven to be the best. There has been a lot of testing in the last ten years that proves that the solid ballast and unloaded tires allows the tire more freedom to flex with the ground for improved traction with less weight! This is done either with rear ballast or wheel weights. I for years preached that there was no difference but so to speak have seen the light! More then in one instance we have seen improved overall increases in pulling power with out breaking traction as well as increased tire life.

Depending on the soil would dictate the use of R-1 vs the R-4 tires. For floatation the R-4 would be the best with a larger surface area but if you have hard slippery surfaces then the R-1 would be a better tire.