Mowing Weight

   / Mowing Weight #11  
bill6 said:
Hi Paul; it's not a matter of tread life. In my example I'm referring to the sidewall. Some tractors, especially those sitting out in the sun, have tire sidewalls that become dry, light-colored, and very hard. They crack and look awful. Rubber dressing keeps them black & soft. Many trucks and tractors have sidewall failures far in advance of any tread issues..... Plus, it just looks nice.


Gee Bill, I would just assume you put your tractors away...out of the sun...:rolleyes:

When I refer to tread life...I include sidewall deterioration in the equation...on a farm...tire failure is tire failure regardless of the cause...

I've noticed that equipment residing north of the Mason-Dixon Line, normally, doesn't seem to have the sun damage that the South experiences...
 
   / Mowing Weight #13  
lmreed said:
I am very early in my search for a tractor that will fit my needs. I mow about 1-2 acres and am wondering if anyone has in mind a weight over which mowing is more difficult due to turf destruction. I think I would be OK getting a tractor that was light enough to mow and then add weights for the heavier tasks such as backhoe work, grading, etc.

Lane

JD LX188 garden tractor

The goal has been roughly 70lbs per horsepower in the past but with many lawn tractors horsepower skyrocketing because of the snap from electric pto clutches this reference is a little off today.
To look at tillage tractors for big farms they only recommend 110 to 130 tops!!! That is for tillage work, if construction work comes in the weight will go up more but they are more sluggish machines to operate and definitely will destroy turf!
 
   / Mowing Weight #14  
Welcome Mr. lmreed,
Answers to a few questions will help us:
1. Do you have a lot of obstructions to mow around? Or are your lawns pretty much "wide open spaces"?
2. Are the lawns manicured and smooth or a bit rough?
3. Are there any steep slopes on your lawns that need to be mowed?
4. Is the whole two acres lawn or is part of it pasture, haylot, or whatever?

I have around 2.5 acres of residential lawn to maintain plus snow to move in winter. The land has lots of trees, the lawns are rough, and there are a couple of short but steep slopes to mow. For me, the Kubota B7610 with loaded turf tires has worked out well.

If the lawns were smooth, probably a BX would do just as well. The larger tires on the B-series will get you over rough ground with less jostling. The B-series Kubotas are being updated in 2008. You might be able to pick up a B7510 or B7610 at closeout prices.
FWIW
Bob
 
   / Mowing Weight #15  
lmreed said:
I know that tire type is also important and have read lots about R1 vs. R4 and of course the benefit of turf tires for grass.



Lane

JD LX188 garden tractor
I don't think turf damage from AGs is a concern on smaller tractors such as the Sub Compacts.
Since that's not a concern for me I prefer to go for the ultimate traction with AGs on my BX23 and 1 of my BX1500s.
Besides AGs make a tractor look like a tractor.
I do have Turf tires on my other BX1500- makes it look like a golf cart.
 
   / Mowing Weight #16  
Bob_Young said:
If the lawns were smooth, probably a BX would do just as well. The larger tires on the B-series will get you over rough ground with less jostling. The B-series Kubotas are being updated in 2008. You might be able to pick up a B7510 or B7610 at closeout prices.
FWIW
Bob

I think I may have underestimated this one when I bought the BX. I have a similar property. 2.5 acres with 2.2 to mow. At the present it is reclaimed field and is quite rough despite my attempts to fill in ruts and low spots. It is next to impossible to mow at moderate speed (high range/mid position) without beating myself to death. Anyone with rough ground should look at the B series as the tire size will be a help and the $$$ may be worth it.
 
   / Mowing Weight #17  
Okay here is my take, i agree with Bill6. I have a MF 1433 weight is about #2900 loader #900 84"mower #900, my tractor in the summer has turf tires on it. I have never had a problem.
Having said that, i have 68acres 5 of which i "take care of" i went out and bought a ZTR to go around trees and over the septic bed [i will not take my big tractor over the bed, other views my vary but i do not want to replace an broken tiles]
I now do the whole lawn with the ZTR mower my has a 50" cut, it is faster [for safety reason over the tractor] and the biggest time saver is going around things and turning around.
My 84"tractor mower was $3000, my ZTR was $3800 i wish i had never bought the 84"mower.
ZTR mowers are whole other topic about which size etc. i went with CubCadet 50" 22hp kawasaki engine[that is what sold me]. Prices are all over the place from $2000 to $20000. There is a few threads in the Lawn section of this form. I posted a few weeks ago why i went with a CC.

19411871-401e-405e-b4f5-470a3c700112_4 (Small).jpg Shane
 
   / Mowing Weight #18  
rpoage said:
I think I may have underestimated this one when I bought the BX. I have a similar property. 2.5 acres with 2.2 to mow. At the present it is reclaimed field and is quite rough despite my attempts to fill in ruts and low spots. It is next to impossible to mow at moderate speed (high range/mid position) without beating myself to death. Anyone with rough ground should look at the B series as the tire size will be a help and the $$$ may be worth it.
;)
What's yer hurry it's still faster and easier than a push mower right??
:D
 
 
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