New Holland Decision

[drivadesl]

My current machine is Ford 1520, predecessor to the NH TC series. Its been a great machine to me, but at 23hp I always wished it was larger. So I started looking and figured if I'm gonna move up, might as well take a big step, so I looked at the TN60A/70A series by NH. I've got some acreage I hunt in the Catskills, and want to use the new machine to plant food plots, ditch for drainage, bush hog, cut trails, snow plow, move timber for firewood, etc. Maybe even cut a hay field or two (about 15 acres). Mostly general utility work. Of course I would get it with a loader to start off. I considered Deere, but their financing now can't match NH. I also like the EH shuttle shift since loader work will likely be done more than anything else. So my first question is whether this machine is to big for my needs? I took a spin around the lot on both the TN60 and the new 2420, and man the TN made the other feel like a toy. The 2420 seemed more nimble and much quiter, but I liked the feel of power on the TN, and the fact it runs at a lower RPM than the 2420. I could probably get by with the 2420, or a smaller one in the TC series, but figure, for a few thousand more it appears like a better deal, and much more tractor. I'm getting a quote to include a loader, 6' HD bucket, with the standard single rear remote. Not sure why I would need another remote with what I'm doing, but appreciate any input on this. Its a big decision, so I want to be sure its the right one. Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

[6sunset6]

I just went from a 1320 to a TC34DA. 20HP to 34HP in the same frame size. I have alot of woods ,no trails and did not want physically a bigger machine. I got 2 rear remotes I would have got three if I could have. one goes right away to the hyd top link. If you are going to do any trails or grading ,one goes to tilt. They will probably stay that way forever.
Then if you want power angle on the grader blade or rake, or chute on a rear snowblower or any other hyd function even the front well there you go. They are around $700 each installed. Since I only have two one is on the top link and the other is for power angle and the snowblower chute.
I use a diverter valve on the curl that allows push button selection for curl or thumb on the bucket or snow plow angle front. Yes I use a plow and a blower. I would put on as much hydraulic as possible.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Sounds like a good plan, and about the right size tractor for all you want to do (mostly because of the potential haying and the food plots). Might consider options from Kubota (M6040), AGCO or MF, or Kioti DK65 if you aren't completely settled on NH but think that's the right size for you.

Extra remotes might be useful for hay equipment, a batwing mower, top and tilt on the 3pt, or power angling features on a rear blade. But I have only a single rear remote on my utility tractor and don't feel I'm missing anything.

 

[AndyMA]

I have a 2120 (TC55 frame size) and a TN75D. They are very different machines. Even though they can overlap in a number of areas there is no substitute for the TN's mass. When I bought the TN, I looked at Deere and Kubota and I thought the TN offered the most bang for the buck. My dealer who sells a lot of both Kubota and New Holland steered me away from the Kubota in that size class. Many members of TBN have TN'sand I think you will find most are very happy with them. I've had mine 5 years.

Andy

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I agree with 6sunset6, get as many factory hydraulic remotes as you can. They are less $$$ if you get them when you order your tractor and unless you absolutely know what you are going to be doing with the tractor and what implements you will be using, you just never know how many you might need.
Once you've gone hydraulic, you'll never go back to manual.

 

[drivadesl]

Thanks, you guys raised some great points. I didn't consider grading as needing a tilt function but that sounds like I would use that with a box rake, or blade. Will that then need one remote or two? Also, the snow blower, discharge is also a possibility. I don't follow on the hydraulic top link, can someone explain what thats for or is that what we're talking about. The dealer tried to sway me away from any additional remotes, maybe he's trying to keep the price down. I'm going to see about getting the cost as an adder, but I would think they would be cheaper now vs later. Thanks again.

 

[Westendorf-RR]

When you start considering a larger tractor, the loader is also larger. Be sure and consider how that loader will dismount - especially if you are going to be mowing and doing other chores around the yard. This should be a 5 minute job. You shouldn't have to lug that loader with you when you don't need it, especially at the price of gas these days.

 

[Mike058]

Thanks, you guys raised some great points. I didn't consider grading as needing a tilt function but that sounds like I would use that with a box rake, or blade. Will that then need one remote or two? Also, the snow blower, discharge is also a possibility. I don't follow on the hydraulic top link, can someone explain what thats for or is that what we're talking about. The dealer tried to sway me away from any additional remotes, maybe he's trying to keep the price down. I'm going to see about getting the cost as an adder, but I would think they would be cheaper now vs later. Thanks again.

I know this one!!! The hydraulic top link is a hydraulic cylinder that replaces the manual top link and lets you adjust the angle from the comfort of the driver's seat.

 

[Riddler]

Haven't had any seat time in a TN, but I use a TC45DA with HST, filled R4s, a 16A loader, 858C BH, and a 6' scraper with top and tilt, to do most of the things you describe. I am always glad it isn't smaller, and if I had it to do over again, I would give more consideration to going bigger, frame and weight that is.

The reason is that I have found that the limitations of the loader impact my use and enjoyment of the tractor far more often than any limitations presented by the HP of the tractor. During the 500 hrs I have used the tractor, I can hardly recall a situation where something like 30HP would not have been enough. Of course, I never plow, pull a heavy hay bayler or 500 gallon sprayer, or the like.

By contrast, the limitations of the loader have impacted my use and enjoyment far more often. For example, when you swap the bucket for pallet forks, and would like to quickly unload a pallet of 80lb bags of concrete dry mix, how many bags, if any, do you have to off load before you can remove the pallet from the back of your pick up truck using the loader? If you have cut a bunch of trees, how many limbed and bucked logs can you grab (with the pallet forks again) in one shot? For what I do, it just seems that I run up against the limitations of the loader more than any engine HP limitation.

If moving up in class increases your loader capability substantially, then that may be the best reason of all to consider it, depending on what you plan to do most with your tractor. In fact, if I may digress, my experience with doing mostly property maintenance and construction type chores has me wondering why the manufacturers spend more time bumping up HP with new model CUTs than increasing loader and BH capability/efficiency by, presumably, adding enough frame size and weight.

 

[Z-Michigan]

In fact, if I may digress, my experience with doing mostly property maintenance and construction type chores has me wondering why the manufacturers spend more time bumping up HP with new model CUTs than increasing loader and BH capability/efficiency by, presumably, adding enough frame size and weight.

HP sells CUTs just like it sells cars... and a lot of CUTs already have as much or more lift capacity as their frames could possibly manage from a weight and balance perspective.

Kubota's integrated loader/backhoe models (B26, L39, L48) and JD's similar model 110 are in the niche you describe. They also cost and weigh a lot more than comparably powerful CUTs, which really aren't comparable all around but probably are wrongly considered comparable by a number of buyers, who then buy the CUT with more gizmos and the same HP for $10k less, leaving only the pros and construction types to buy the pricey loader/backhoes and get all the frame strength and hydraulic capacity they offer.