Ford 801 comments please
- Thread starter Super_Chief
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Worth? 2500 to 3500. Maybe more depending on condition.
It looks like a 4 speed, no power steering, no auxiliary transmission. Fairly basic, but has good rubber on it.
The diesel 172 is a good engine. Not a great one, but runs strong with not much fuel used. Weak point is the pump seals wear out over time and leak into the crankcase. The injector excess fuel manifold can crack or the solders fail over time and leak under the rocker arm covers. Not a big deal. The Roosamaster (Stanadyne) injection pump is pretty standard and parts are easy to get. Pro rebuild is about 350 to 500 depending on what is wrong. They do last 5000 or more hours without needing rebuild. There is a plastic ring in there that dissolves over time. A metal replacement is available.
A bad thing about the 4 speed is the 1st gear is too high for use with a rototiller. Just limits you to a plow / disc combination. Not a huge deal.
Other bad thing is the lack of a differential lock. You have to finesse the individual break peddles to direct traction.
The good is that it is a 46 year old tractor and probably has 46 more years left in it. (With regular fluid changes and filter cleanings) The air filter is an oil bath and you HAVE to change the oil regularly. More fiddling, but it filters better.
It looks like a 4 speed, no power steering, no auxiliary transmission. Fairly basic, but has good rubber on it.
The diesel 172 is a good engine. Not a great one, but runs strong with not much fuel used. Weak point is the pump seals wear out over time and leak into the crankcase. The injector excess fuel manifold can crack or the solders fail over time and leak under the rocker arm covers. Not a big deal. The Roosamaster (Stanadyne) injection pump is pretty standard and parts are easy to get. Pro rebuild is about 350 to 500 depending on what is wrong. They do last 5000 or more hours without needing rebuild. There is a plastic ring in there that dissolves over time. A metal replacement is available.
A bad thing about the 4 speed is the 1st gear is too high for use with a rototiller. Just limits you to a plow / disc combination. Not a huge deal.
Other bad thing is the lack of a differential lock. You have to finesse the individual break peddles to direct traction.
The good is that it is a 46 year old tractor and probably has 46 more years left in it. (With regular fluid changes and filter cleanings) The air filter is an oil bath and you HAVE to change the oil regularly. More fiddling, but it filters better.
Soundguy
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Ditto everything JB said.. except perhaps the roto-tilling.
Normally the ford 4spds are pretty fast for rototilling, but that's because people like to use 8n's and NAA's.. with a 119 and 134 ci gas engine. That 172 diesel is quite a bit beefier. I've seen plenty of people rototill in average soils with one. If i had tough soil, It won't be adequate nor a 1st choice as a tiller machine.
post the numbers stamed ont he bellhousing flat, aft of the starter.. though sounds like an 841 from what you say.. they were made from 58-62
soundguy
Normally the ford 4spds are pretty fast for rototilling, but that's because people like to use 8n's and NAA's.. with a 119 and 134 ci gas engine. That 172 diesel is quite a bit beefier. I've seen plenty of people rototill in average soils with one. If i had tough soil, It won't be adequate nor a 1st choice as a tiller machine.
post the numbers stamed ont he bellhousing flat, aft of the starter.. though sounds like an 841 from what you say.. they were made from 58-62
soundguy
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Super_Chief
New member
picked it up for 1800
Cannot decipher the numbers on the build plate aft of the starter
11-0
1076569 ?
looks like some kind of logo stamped there but not the Ford logo.
This is the second tractor I have ever bought
26 years in the Navy and another pushing a desk,
The only problem I see so far is "slow lift" on the hitch.
Stays in position when stopped and drops OK.
The shifter is really sloppy hopefully an easy fix.
Thanks for your help so far.
Cannot decipher the numbers on the build plate aft of the starter
11-0
1076569 ?
looks like some kind of logo stamped there but not the Ford logo.
This is the second tractor I have ever bought
26 years in the Navy and another pushing a desk,
The only problem I see so far is "slow lift" on the hitch.
Stays in position when stopped and drops OK.
The shifter is really sloppy hopefully an easy fix.
Thanks for your help so far.
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coobie
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Good luck with your new/used tractor.I love them old fords,I had a few 8n & 9n fords that were very good tractors.coobieSuper_Chief said:
Soundguy
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Slow is realative... Will it lift full height in 3-4 seconds?
1800 sounds great.. gives you room to fix-er-up
what trans does it have.. and how sloppy is it?
soundguy
1800 sounds great.. gives you room to fix-er-up
what trans does it have.. and how sloppy is it?
soundguy
Super_Chief said:
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Super_Chief
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Haven't had a chance since bringing it home (no implements to weigh it down)
A little hilly where I parked it so haven't been able to "put her in neutral and put my weight on it" Gotta find a flat spot,
I may have to jiggle the lever under the seat to see if iit a solution or part of the problem.
Should it stop pumping with the lever up or down?
How many seconds should it take to lift?
The sloppy gear shift (4 speed) is awful. Flops all over the place and have to guess and clutch it to find reverse. I think there is probably a pin through in the case that may be gone, probably gonna go with a new one as the top is all chewed up so can't put a knob on it.
Thanks,
A little hilly where I parked it so haven't been able to "put her in neutral and put my weight on it" Gotta find a flat spot,
I may have to jiggle the lever under the seat to see if iit a solution or part of the problem.
Should it stop pumping with the lever up or down?
How many seconds should it take to lift?
The sloppy gear shift (4 speed) is awful. Flops all over the place and have to guess and clutch it to find reverse. I think there is probably a pin through in the case that may be gone, probably gonna go with a new one as the top is all chewed up so can't put a knob on it.
Thanks,
Soundguy
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The pump is engine driven.. it runs any time the engine is running.. thus... to answer your question.. NO.. it does not stop pumping wwith the handle down.
It's likely the pin IS gone from the base of the gear shift lever..
it's easy to cut and rethread the gearshift handle.. dozens of us have done it.. either cut off, and grind down a new section small enough to get a die over it.. or cut new threads intot he damaged section a couple sizes smaller than oem, and then bushing it up with a thread insert.. like ahelicoil.. etc..
could braze or weld up and then rethread as well..
soundguy
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Super_Chief
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I guess I should be moving my questions to another category thread as all of my questions so far have been answered on this one.
However, in the same vane as above, what is the small lever under the right seat used for? It doesn't have any apparent affects on the lifting and lowering but what should I expect to be happening when I move this small lever up or down?
Thanks, and this will probably end this thread.
However, in the same vane as above, what is the small lever under the right seat used for? It doesn't have any apparent affects on the lifting and lowering but what should I expect to be happening when I move this small lever up or down?
Thanks, and this will probably end this thread.
Soundguy
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It's the draft control lever.. If your lift is adjusted correctly, then it should ahve an effect when you are pulling a plow or other ground engaging implement.
soundguy
soundguy