Help me buy my Massey GC2410

[tsteahr]

Hello,

I initially posted this on the MF forum but I now realize my questions are more general in nature so I have moved my post here.

My situation: I have a 1.5 acre lot (in rocky central ct) and I will be needing to install or relocate a fair amount of landscape plantings (100 give or take). I will need to install a lawn which will require 4inches (or more) of topsoil to be spread after scraping off the weeds and crabgrass that is my current lawn. I have a small amount of minor regrading to do. I also will be excavating for a frost wall foundation for a small addition and another frost wall for a greenhouse. I already have a lawn tractor with a snow blower so I do not expect to use this machine for mowing in the near term. I need to make some repairs to the lawn mower over the winter so I may need to use the loader to clear snow off the drive for a little while until I get the blower going again.

The decision: I have decided a scut would be the appropriate machine for my needs. I also decided I want to buy a established name. I did not want to take an adventure with kiota, Mahindra, Yanmar, etc. I had been seriously considering a power-trac but I came to the conclusion it may not be a rugged enough digging machine. This left me with JD, kubota, NH and MF. Oddly, the two local NH dealers did not want to show me or sell the 1025Boomer. Both said kubota or a 2030. Test driving the BX25, JD2305 and the MF GC2410 got me to decide on the Massey. Happily I really liked the Massey dealer as well (Big Boy Toys).

The Plan: I will place my order on Monday and I would like to ask all the right questions. The price on the MF is quite fair but not a "great deal". However he has very kindly offered to reinforce the bottom of the loader bucket (for use with forks) and to fill the tires.

The questions:

1) Would it be unreasonable to ask the dealer to weld chain hooks onto both buckets for just the cost of buying the hooks from him?

2) Do I need a block heater here in CT? The unit will be stored in a unheated garage.

3) I am thinking R4 tires since I don't plan to mow. Should this cost extra and if so how much is reasonable?

4) I would ask to purchase the service manuals as well. Is there one or multiple manuals (one for tractor and another for motor)?

5) The dealer said they fill the tires of every unit they sell. Is it fair to assume he will use something like RimGuard or should I ask?

6) Is it fair for me to expect the machine to be leak tight or are oil drips on the garage floor a fact of life?

7) Once I get the machine home I would like to install work lights on the ROPS. Any suggestions for quality lights and where to get them?

8) Fuel treatment / stabilizer. Is there any advantage to using the high end brands like Red Line / Amsoil or should I get whatever is at walmart/autozone.

Finally, is there anything specific I should ask while I am there?

Thanks for any information,

Cheers!

 

[bp fick]

Well, I'll take em one at a time.

The questions:

1) Would it be unreasonable to ask the dealer to weld chain hooks onto both buckets for just the cost of buying the hooks from him?
Ask him? What do you have to lose? I would.

2) Do I need a block heater here in CT? The unit will be stored in a unheated garage. I have one, and I would say yes. Why not?

3) I am thinking R4 tires since I don't plan to mow. Should this cost extra and if so how much is reasonable? With Kubota, there is no cost. I assume the same with MF

4) I would ask to purchase the service manuals as well. Is there one or multiple manuals (one for tractor and another for motor)?I would order from dealer at time of purchase.

5) The dealer said they fill the tires of every unit they sell. Is it fair to assume he will use something like RimGuard or should I ask? Wow, they fill all their sales? Odd. Anyway, just ask. They will be glad to tell you what they use.

6) Is it fair for me to expect the machine to be leak tight or are oil drips on the garage floor a fact of life? Leaking is a sign something isn't right. You should NOT expect leaks and drips

7) Once I get the machine home I would like to install work lights on the ROPS. Any suggestions for quality lights and where to get them? You might do much better rolling this into the package.

8) Fuel treatment / stabilizer. Is there any advantage to using the high end brands like Red Line / Amsoil or should I get whatever is at walmart/autozone.Lots of choices, but most of the guys here use Power Service, available at WalMart or Tractor Supply as it is a good product.

Best Wishes

 

[Max2310]

Most of what you mentionned what part of the deal for me. Actually, he wasn't into dealing at all. Filled after market R4 (more hd), 2 hooks on the loader and 1 on the BH, block heather, skip plate, rear work light, and I may be missing something (yes, touch-up spray paint, never used it yet). For them, they make this standard equipment and its one price for every costumer.

Shorthly after, I bought rear rugged tire chains ($$$), I added front 2 work lights to the ROPS (on sale at princess auto for less than 10$ each and work pretty good) which is almost a most. On the GC2310, front lighting is poor.<

I bought the service manual (1, I think) for around 30$ and never really looked at it yet since I let the dealer take care of my beast at least while its covered under warranty.

Concerning leeks, I do have small spots from the loader cylinder which is under investigation if its right or not but they may be replacing my cylinders shortly. You may also have small grease drops every now and than from continously greasing the tractor, it has to go somewhere some day.

1.5 year and over 330 hours and still love mine and I think you are making a good move on yours. If you get multiple months without interest, consider buying your implements at the same time.

Good luck,
Max

 

[Diamondpilot]

If you are not going to mow and you live in CT I would go with R1 tires. Its a night and day difference in traction. It will allow your little tractor push and pull about 50% more before braking traction.

Chris

 

[tsteahr]

Thank guys!

I thought the R1s would be the better choice. Do you know if I take a penalty in winter on a paved drive? Part of my drive is fairly steep. With my lawn mower, wheel weights and chains were not enough at times. I have to strap a 60lb sand bag to the grass catcher frame and then I am good. It would be nice if I could take the GC in the snow to clear the drive and not have to buy chains.

Excellent point about buying all the implements under the zero interest program. I will ask the dealer about a thumb and tooth bar, but I was thinking I would go with a Bro_Tek and either a Lackender or a Markham. I'm afraid of the price I will get from a dealer. I asked the JD dealer about a thumb for the 2305 and he quoted me $2500 for a manual thumb I nearly hit the floor and the sales guy did not bat an eye. He then quoted me $5500 for a grapple bucket This came after the $19k quote for the JD 2305 That was when I ran for the door.

I don't really need this machine until next spring but the 6 year zero percent is just to good to pass up. I am pleased that the best SCUT for my needs (the Massey) also has the best financing and is sold by the dealer I liked the best. It was meant to be

Also a good point about the possible grease drips. I have to watch for that on my mower as well. I generally keep an eye out for buildup on the outside and keep it wiped off.

Speaking of lube, what is the lube of choice for swivel knuckles, like at the ends of the 3pt hitch? Seems like a normal thick grease might be hard to get in there. Is there a good spray lube that thickens up after spraying in?

Thanks for your help guys!

I haven't had this much fun since I put together my custom bicycle!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have had the best luck with R1's in all snow conditions. Many of my friends have R4's and they do not get the traction I do pushing snow. They also have trouble steering on asphalt when the R4's load up with snow. Get the rears loaded and R1's and you will be much happier. R4's have their place but not on tractors that spend any time in the dirt. They are great on loaders and operations purely in gravel, concrete, ect. My experience is R4's load up and turn to slicks.

Chris

 

[tsteahr]

Diamondpilot, Im worried the R1's would damage a lawn just driving around. Is this true? While I won't be mowing, I expect I will have the machine on the lawn quite a bit of the time. I don't want to tear up the grass taking a load of compost or mulch to a raised bed...

 

[bp fick]

One difference to remember, also, is that your new scut will be 4X4. Your lawn mower was, or was not? If it was not, then do you have a treat awaiting you!!!!

 

[ChuckinNH]

I had the bar (R-1) tires on my BX22. When the ground was soft at all, it left noticably more damage in my yard than my 1100 Lb Simplicity did with turfs. Still, the BX was considerably heavier with the loaded tires, backhoe, or at least backhoe subframe, etc.

 

[tsteahr]

Fred, you are correct my Simplicity Broadmoor lawn mower is not 4wd. I have never operated a 4wd vehicle before. I'm looking forward to it.

Chuck, I see you have R4's on your bota. Did you swap out the R1's because of the turf issue? How do your R4s do on the grass compared to the r1?