Loaded Tires vs. Ballast Box

[robertwhite]

So in my quest for the new homestead tractor, I pretty much have settled on the L3400 w/FEL. I was going to do a L4400, but the extra weight is kind of leaning me towards the smaller tractor.

Tractor will mostly be used to mow & hog 15 acres and the main concern of the bigger tractor is sinking/leaving ruts all over the yard with R4's in the flat, clay soil.

That being said, I started thinking that by loading the tires, I am adding another 600lbs or so to the mix, permanently.

That in turn got me thinking of why not forgo the loaded tires and get a ballast box with 500+ pounds and that way, I could just set the FEL & PTO mounted Ballast box in the shop and take a few minutes to hook them up when I need to use the FEL. It would also dramatically reduce the rutting/marking while cutting which will be 90% of the time anyway.

Make sense?

Anyone use a ballast box instead of loaded tires?

 

[RoyJackson]

Filled tires help a lot in stability and a little in traction. Filled tires also provide ballast (keeps the rear end down) when you have the loader installed, but not the ballast box.
A ballast box helps a lot in traction. As long as you keep it low, it should help with stability (but not as much as loaded tires).
If your property is pretty flat, you can probably forego filling the tires.

I have both filled tires and a ballast box. My 790 (with R-4's) doesn't rut unless the ground is wet (not even then if I use some common ense when I operate). However, at 2200 lbs with no loader or ballast box, I think the 790 is quite a bit lighter then your L3400 (no idea how much the L3400 weighs). Add about 600 lbs for the filled tires, so figure 2800 lbs for just the tractor and filled tires.

So...your decision based upon your needs.

 

[Diamondpilot]

There is no substitute for weight. I have my 28HP tractor with FEL weighing about 5,600# with me on it and something like the grader blade on the rear. It will do twice the work my uncles 33HP tractor will. I bet that thing is barely 3,500#. Remember the root word of tractor is Traction. That is part of the equation that allows a 30HP tractor to pull as much or more than a 300HP truck.

I have my tires loaded, 4 suitcase weights on the front, and cast wheel weights on the rear. I still mow with my tractor and have no issues, just wait till its dry.

Chris

 

[TripleR]

I use both on my 5030 and 2660. I have a larger Case and MF that do well with just filled tires, but on the smaller ones I have never been comfortable with just one or the other.

Maybe someone with your model tractor can provide information on point.

I had my 5030 HSTC in my back yard working up a downed tree and did no damage with FEL, loaded R4 tires and 7' BB; lot depends on your soil.

 

[Reg]

At a guess filling R4s on either of those tractors will add over 1,000 lbs - for the PAIR !
I'm assuming 17 ~ 18 inch wide tires on 24 ~ 26 inch rims.

Rutting isn't so much a function of TOO MUCH weight as it is of not having enough weight on the driving wheels to get traction - and tight turns on wet ground causing the front wheels to side slip.

I would go for the heavier tractor ANYWAY and load the rear tires.
Then be careful about only taking it across "lawns" only when very dry and I would avoid making turns.
If it makes significant dents ...Ahh, new project; that "Lawn" needs to be rollered and will be far better for it (-:

 

[robertwhite]

Maybe I'm not making myself clear, but I thought I explained it pretty well in the 1st post.

90+% of the time, the tractor will be used for mowing. A very small percentage will be FEL work.

Posters have said basically to add weight, weight and more weight. Why would I want to do that and then go out and mow? That will only increase the problem.

Also as I stated, the land is pretty flat and it is clay soil. There are posters who have said to wait until the ground dries before mowing. Anyone who has clay soil on flat land know it takes many days after a rain for the land to dry. Are you suggesting that in the Springtime when grass grows very fast that I wait until the ground is thoroughly dry? The lawn has to be cut every week, not once a month.

To put it in simple terms, picture the use of this tractor like a great big riding mower.

Ballast box will be used ONLY for FEL work and there really isn't a traction issue when ballast is not hooked up because the land is flat. Tractor on its own is around 2600lbs. Add a ballast box and we are talking 3200lbs.

That ballast box should be plenty of weight to keep the rear end on the ground. Plus the fact that the tractor is a 4x4. That's my thinking anyway.

 

[pharmon]

I don't currently mow with my tractor (Bobcat CT 230) but do always seem to be on the lawn. I have R-4's and they are not loaded. I have a large plastic box which I fill with sand and put on my carryall when I need weight. I think you have the right idea for your application.

Paul

 

[FritzII]

Don't load the tires.
Use the ballast box with the front loader installed.

You may want to add suit case weights on the front depending on what you're hooking up to with the 3 point.

At 2900 lbs I left tracks in clay soil. You'll still have to wait for the ground to dry.

I have since filled the tires and run with a box blade to try and keep the rears on the ground when using the FEL. Running heavier makes it worse.

 

[Reg]

Maybe I'm not making myself clear, but I thought I explained it pretty well in the 1st post.

90+% of the time, the tractor will be used for mowing. A very small percentage will be FEL work.

Posters have said basically to add weight, weight and more weight. Why would I want to do that and then go out and mow? That will only increase the problem.

Also as I stated, the land is pretty flat and it is clay soil. There are posters who have said to wait until the ground dries before mowing. Anyone who has clay soil on flat land know it takes many days after a rain for the land to dry. Are you suggesting that in the Springtime when grass grows very fast that I wait until the ground is thoroughly dry? The lawn has to be cut every week, not once a month.

To put it in simple terms, picture the use of this tractor like a great big riding mower.

Ballast box will be used ONLY for FEL work and there really isn't a traction issue when ballast is not hooked up because the land is flat. Tractor on its own is around 2600lbs. Add a ballast box and we are talking 3200lbs.

That ballast box should be plenty of weight to keep the rear end on the ground. Plus the fact that the tractor is a 4x4. That's my thinking anyway.

Be sure to train yourself to ALWAYS lower the bucket before the ballast box (-:

The "Option B" might be to buy it with turf tires.
When you are "this close" to signing the deal ask what the dealer would want for the set of R4 rims and tires they will take off.
Try to make it sound like a deal closer if they throw them in or sell them back to you at cost.

That is how my "Great Big Lawn Mower" comes into being every Spring, I just swap the loaded R4s for the unloaded turfs.... Ta Dahh and swap back again before the snow.
Not at all a tough task with an engine crane and it goes a LOT easier if I have the back hoe on.

I don't ALWAYS get all the dirt work done before the transmogrification to mower, but it usually works out close enough.

 

[TripleR]

Maybe I'm not making myself clear, but I thought I explained it pretty well in the 1st post.

90+% of the time, the tractor will be used for mowing. A very small percentage will be FEL work.

Posters have said basically to add weight, weight and more weight. Why would I want to do that and then go out and mow? That will only increase the problem.

Also as I stated, the land is pretty flat and it is clay soil. There are posters who have said to wait until the ground dries before mowing. Anyone who has clay soil on flat land know it takes many days after a rain for the land to dry. Are you suggesting that in the Springtime when grass grows very fast that I wait until the ground is thoroughly dry? The lawn has to be cut every week, not once a month.

To put it in simple terms, picture the use of this tractor like a great big riding mower.

Ballast box will be used ONLY for FEL work and there really isn't a traction issue when ballast is not hooked up because the land is flat. Tractor on its own is around 2600lbs. Add a ballast box and we are talking 3200lbs.

That ballast box should be plenty of weight to keep the rear end on the ground. Plus the fact that the tractor is a 4x4. That's my thinking anyway.

Under those circumstances then I would also go with the ballast box or some other type of removable rear weight. I would want a little more than five hundred pounds myself, but that's just me. Good luck.