John Deere 3032e vs New Holland t1510 for 60acres

[Radiater]

Hello to all, I've done quite a few searches here but still having some trouble making a decision so I decided to post another comparison like everyone else...:laughing:

I own 60 acres of woods and field. Field is rented to a farmer. My wife and I want a reliable compact tractor to do bushog work, keep a dirt road level, move trees and stumps, build brushpiles for small game and start a food plot for deer. Foodplot will be what is now overgrown field and all totaled about 3 acres of fields.


Looked at both the JD 3032e and the NH t1510 recently. Both dealers have been in business a long time 30+ years and seem equally service oriented. Both will deliver and pick up the tractor of choice. The NH dealer I pass every single time I go to my property, the JD dealer is about 20 miles out of the way.

Here is the way I see it.....both are hydro equipped and price out very close with FEL, rough cutter, 5' box blade, tiller

JD 3032e (32hp)

Pros: More displacement, 1 more hp at PTO, slightly quieter and less harsh with less vibration, comfortable helm and foot controls, name brand...runs like a deere and that whole thing, A little better hydraulic pump capacity (jd 9.3 gpm vs nh 6.2 gpm)

Cons: Relatively fixed FEL, yes bucket can be removed and arms can to but not quickly, no mid PTO (but I don't plan on mid mount mowing), no backhoe (again, expensive implement I don't plan to use), slightly less fuel capacity (7.1 vs 6.4 gal)

Live vs Independent PTO, JD dealer says independent is better...of course. Reading about it I'd say it doesn't matter a whole lot. Maybe live is quicker/safer to operate


NH T1510 (30hp)

Pros: larger fuel cell, mid PTO availability, quick detach front loader (not just bucket as with JD), backhoe capable (just in case or for resale), dealer is closer, warranty is better (2yr everything, 1 year drivetrain vs JD 1yr everthing then 2 yr drivetrain only), 3 speed gear selection (L,M,H vs 2 speed with JD L, H), kind of like blue a little better as a color (stupid I know)

Cons: Noiser and a little more harshness and vibration, Less hydraulic pump capacity

Trying to decide and want to make sure I get enough tractor and versatility. Wife says I get ONE tractor and that is it. Properly taken care of it should last me as long as I need it anyway.

Help me decide or give me things to think about. Please don't suggest more tractors that are 3 to 5k more without good reason as I'm pretty set on spending less than 22k.

Thanks,
R

 

[123rday]

I think you'd be happy with either model. I was looking at their bigger brothers, 3038e vs 1520. Came down to better price for JD. However, A friends dad just got a Case 31hp cut with loader. It had similar features of the 1520, more bells and whistles. Had I looked closer at the Case I might have went that route.
At fault of my own, I wish I would have chosen a tractor with more loader capability. Something to maybe think about with the tree work.

 

[nikdfish]

We went with a 3038e w/FEL this past October & have been happy with it. It was a good fit for us in regard to cost/capability.

The fuel tank lasts pretty much a full day of operation for us. The all wheel drive (MFWD?) has been very good, esp. with the simple differential lock control via the brake pedal. Position control on the 3 point hitch is a big plus. Regarding 2 range vs 3, I've got to admit that I only use low range while doing work. Nothing I do would benefit by a higher ground speed - even hogging has to be done carefully on our uneven fields. The FEL has been fine for material handling, moving dirt, chips, logs and brush (with add-on forks), but doesn't seem to have the power needed to easily grub out the small stumps (4" at base) I've tried it on (at least without significant digging).

A down side has been lack of off seat PTO - I have to put a couple of 14' 3/8" tie down chains in a bag on the seat in order to run the chipper...

Nick

 

[Radiater]

I think you'd be happy with either model. I was looking at their bigger brothers, 3038e vs 1520. Came down to better price for JD. However, A friends dad just got a Case 31hp cut with loader. It had similar features of the 1520, more bells and whistles. Had I looked closer at the Case I might have went that route.
At fault of my own, I wish I would have chosen a tractor with more loader capability. Something to maybe think about with the tree work.

Thank you...should have posted that...

JD 3032e FEL 1100lbs or a little more, NH FEL 900lbs

24" from 3point hitch JD 3032e 1300lbs, NH T1510 1600lbs

 

[Radiater]

We went with a 3038e w/FEL this past October & have been happy with it. It was a good fit for us in regard to cost/capability.

The fuel tank lasts pretty much a full day of operation for us. The all wheel drive (MFWD?) has been very good, esp. with the simple differential lock control via the brake pedal. Position control on the 3 point hitch is a big plus. Regarding 2 range vs 3, I've got to admit that I only use low range while doing work. Nothing I do would benefit by a higher ground speed - even hogging has to be done carefully on our uneven fields. The FEL has been fine for material handling, moving dirt, chips, logs and brush (with add-on forks), but doesn't seem to have the power needed to easily grub out the small stumps (4" at base) I've tried it on (at least without significant digging).

A down side has been lack of off seat PTO - I have to put a couple of 14' 3/8" tie down chains in a bag on the seat in order to run the chipper...

Nick

Appreciate the input on tractor ground speed in use. Even when tooling around the lot at the dealer neither rode that great in high gear, both tractors seemed a little jumpy for lack of a better term.

As I understand it both tractors are 4wd and both have the offseat PTO safety feature.

I thought of using the box blade to rip smaller stumps out, is the FEL better for this task??

 

[Radiater]

I did read something about r4 tires rubbing on the 3 point hitch with chains on the JD 3032e. Anyone experience that or understand what it was about?

Are R4 tires better than R1 tires???

 

[RoyJackson]

As I understand it both tractors are 4wd and both have the offseat PTO safety feature.

I thought of using the box blade to rip smaller stumps out, is the FEL better for this task??

The 3032 does not have offseat PTO capability (plan on using a 50 lb bag of sand or something like that)

Use the tractor's drawbar for pulling stumps.

As another alternative, you might want to consider a used tractor if you feel comfortable with that. A Deere 4300 or 4310 would be a good choice... You'd get a more capable tractor for (most likely) less money. Downside is you need to be able to evaluate what a good used tractor is...and the financing won't be as sweet.

I did read something about r4 tires rubbing on the 3 point hitch with chains on the JD 3032e. Anyone experience that or understand what it was about?

Are R4 tires better than R1 tires???

I like the R-4's, but for the work you're listing in your first post, I'd go with the R-1's (filled). However, if the R-4's are the standard (not optional) tire, then I'd go with them.

 

[Radiater]

Appreciate the input Roy.

R1s are standard and I would be happy with them.

Thinking about the used route but undecided at this point.

 

[nikdfish]

The R4 rub I've seen is if the turnbuckle that limits arm lateral movement isn't adjusted tight enough & the implement weight causes the low side arm to rub when driving on a slope. When snugged up enough to prevent lateral travel such as would result in touching the tire, no problem ...

Regarding small stump removal, pulling with a chain seems to work best for me.

Nick

 

[RoyJackson]

The R4 rub I've seen is if the turnbuckle that limits arm lateral movement isn't adjusted tight enough & the implement weight causes the low side arm to rub when driving on a slope. When snugged up enough to prevent lateral travel such as would result in touching the tire, no problem ...

Regarding small stump removal, pulling with a chain seems to work best for me.

Nick

And since Nick brought this up...when adjusting the anti-sway links/turnbuckles, people tend to do it while the implement is on the ground...that's fine.
But also raise the implement and see how it sways...good possibility you'll need to adjust those links/turnbuckles some more.