Comparison Turfs vs. Industrial vs. Bar
- Thread starter Scooby074
- Start date
James Loehr
Silver Member
- Joined
- May 7, 2008
- Messages
- 175
- Location
- Fon du Lac, Wisconsin
- Tractor
- Kubota L3130,Case SC,Case D,John Deere 335.
My BX2360 and my L3130 both have R4 tires. For the most part there okay but if they ever need replacing it will be with bar tires.
I bought my T1510 with ag tires. They chewed up everything. go figure?! SO, I traded them for R-4 tires. I loved them until spring, they were horrible in the field and the lawn.... forget it. Now I have turfs. I wish I would have bought them in the first place. I live on a hill....... They close 1/2 my road in the winter hill...... and I have NO traction problems. Now, I don't pull a two bottom plow, or anything extreme, but for my mower, backblade,etc.... They work fine for me.
A few weeks ago I got a BX2360. Turfs, loaded with RimGuard. On the lawn, they are great and ride smooth. I have done some excavating with the loader and am happy with the traction. The weighted tires do a lot for traction, yet do not harm the grass.
I like the Carisle fieldtracs on the John Deeres, HDAPs. I wish that was an option on the Kubota, it wasn't and I did not want to spring for an extra set of rims and tires. (YET, LOL)
I like the Carisle fieldtracs on the John Deeres, HDAPs. I wish that was an option on the Kubota, it wasn't and I did not want to spring for an extra set of rims and tires. (YET, LOL)
If it has a loader you will probably USE the loader ?
Ag tires are typically NOT rated for the full rated weight of the loader - so basically those are OUT.
Lawn damage is MUCH more a function of tight turns, wet soil and WEIGHT than tread pattern.
Back to that loader again, if you use it to anywhere near its capacity you WILL churn up lawn if you do tight turns.
Even without a loader you can churn up sod with turf tires by doing tight turns when the ground is wet - don't ask how I know this.
Against that I HAVE used my loader with turf tires on the front, they have looked about ready to roll off the rims and if one had I might have flipped - not a good idea.
On my little 42 HP Kukje tractor I have a set of loaded R4s and a set of unloaded turf tires.
I try to switch them to match the seasons, but it always seems that I put the turfs on too early in the Spring and/or dirt work crops up too late.
I usually get the R4s back on before turning over the gardens for the winter and setting up for snow removal - usually.
I don't see much of a case for R1s, unless you are doing row crops, but then you probably wouldn't be considering a BX25 (-:
Yeah, wet clay can stop just about anything/everything, so tread pattern hardly matters.
Best get something on tracks for that area, but even then.....
Seriously, a BX25 isn't a clay pit pony, what would you be doing in/on clay ?
Laying a tennis court, or something ?
Ag tires are typically NOT rated for the full rated weight of the loader - so basically those are OUT.
Lawn damage is MUCH more a function of tight turns, wet soil and WEIGHT than tread pattern.
Back to that loader again, if you use it to anywhere near its capacity you WILL churn up lawn if you do tight turns.
Even without a loader you can churn up sod with turf tires by doing tight turns when the ground is wet - don't ask how I know this.
Against that I HAVE used my loader with turf tires on the front, they have looked about ready to roll off the rims and if one had I might have flipped - not a good idea.
On my little 42 HP Kukje tractor I have a set of loaded R4s and a set of unloaded turf tires.
I try to switch them to match the seasons, but it always seems that I put the turfs on too early in the Spring and/or dirt work crops up too late.
I usually get the R4s back on before turning over the gardens for the winter and setting up for snow removal - usually.
I don't see much of a case for R1s, unless you are doing row crops, but then you probably wouldn't be considering a BX25 (-:
Yeah, wet clay can stop just about anything/everything, so tread pattern hardly matters.
Best get something on tracks for that area, but even then.....
Seriously, a BX25 isn't a clay pit pony, what would you be doing in/on clay ?
Laying a tennis court, or something ?
Rancher Ed
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2011
- Messages
- 306
- Location
- Texas
- Tractor
- 2008 Kubota M7040 4WD w/loader, 1979? Mitsubishi D2600 4WD w/loader
As long as you don't crank the wheels all the way the bars should be fine on you yard.
R1s are great in clay and I think the bars would be about the same. We have never had any problems with punctures and unless you have a know problem (ie locust thorns) I wouldn't worry about it. All R1/bar tires I have seen are rated such that if you have them inflated properly they will be fine for loader work.
I would avoid R4s. On wet ground they are as hard if not harder than R1s (they have enough tread to rip stuff up like R1s but sometimes they will spin where R1s wouldn't and this rips it up more) They also suck in the mud and clay.
Turfs are great for golf courses and flat yards but are bad in the mud and clay. Also, if you yard is damp and not flat they are easy to spin which is very hard on the lawn. They are not really desined for loader work.
It sounds like the bar tires should work very well for you as long as you remember not to turn too sharp when mowing/working on the lawn.
Ed
R1s are great in clay and I think the bars would be about the same. We have never had any problems with punctures and unless you have a know problem (ie locust thorns) I wouldn't worry about it. All R1/bar tires I have seen are rated such that if you have them inflated properly they will be fine for loader work.
I would avoid R4s. On wet ground they are as hard if not harder than R1s (they have enough tread to rip stuff up like R1s but sometimes they will spin where R1s wouldn't and this rips it up more) They also suck in the mud and clay.
Turfs are great for golf courses and flat yards but are bad in the mud and clay. Also, if you yard is damp and not flat they are easy to spin which is very hard on the lawn. They are not really desined for loader work.
It sounds like the bar tires should work very well for you as long as you remember not to turn too sharp when mowing/working on the lawn.
Ed
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,824
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
personally i really do not care about how the lawn looks. but rather how fast i can get everything mowed. it might look rough. but it helps keep erosion down. and keeps the small critters away.
R1 tires to me = going through mud, and tires cutting through the mud down to harder surface and keeps you moving.
R4 tires (industrial) width of turf tires, and bars like R1s. to be honest there fat there big. and if you get into mud they can spin. fairly quickly. on a lawn. if you are out in that muddy / wet of a lawn. you shouldn't be out there in the first place with anything if you do not want to tear up the lawn.
Turf tires, to be honest, i hate them. granted majority of what needs to be mowed is on some sort of sloped hill. about only thing that is flat. is the fields. everything else is sloped a good amount. so being able to keep traction going up a hill is more important. even if it tears up the lawn. the lawn i have, it generally takes approx 3 mowings for any damage i have done to come back out of it and not be noticeable.
as far as other type of tires, including the bar type you noted. any tire going to tear up the yard if it is wet enough. once it dries, not a big deal. as others said turning causes most tearing up the grass. but wheel spin going up a hill can do pretty good damage. and be rather annoying. more so if you have to back down hill and go clear around and mow down the hill for each pass.
if tractor had 4wd drive or MFWD, i might choose turfs. but most likely it would perhaps turfs on the front, and R4's on the back. R4's in some spots more so low area spots were ground can stay mushy and wet for some time. it is nice to have wider traction tires. so you do not sink down into the yard leaving ruts like R1's would leave. **been there** the turfs on front. some times it might be nice to let the front tires slide a little in a turn vs trying to grab the grass and tear it out.
R1 tires to me = going through mud, and tires cutting through the mud down to harder surface and keeps you moving.
R4 tires (industrial) width of turf tires, and bars like R1s. to be honest there fat there big. and if you get into mud they can spin. fairly quickly. on a lawn. if you are out in that muddy / wet of a lawn. you shouldn't be out there in the first place with anything if you do not want to tear up the lawn.
Turf tires, to be honest, i hate them. granted majority of what needs to be mowed is on some sort of sloped hill. about only thing that is flat. is the fields. everything else is sloped a good amount. so being able to keep traction going up a hill is more important. even if it tears up the lawn. the lawn i have, it generally takes approx 3 mowings for any damage i have done to come back out of it and not be noticeable.
as far as other type of tires, including the bar type you noted. any tire going to tear up the yard if it is wet enough. once it dries, not a big deal. as others said turning causes most tearing up the grass. but wheel spin going up a hill can do pretty good damage. and be rather annoying. more so if you have to back down hill and go clear around and mow down the hill for each pass.
if tractor had 4wd drive or MFWD, i might choose turfs. but most likely it would perhaps turfs on the front, and R4's on the back. R4's in some spots more so low area spots were ground can stay mushy and wet for some time. it is nice to have wider traction tires. so you do not sink down into the yard leaving ruts like R1's would leave. **been there** the turfs on front. some times it might be nice to let the front tires slide a little in a turn vs trying to grab the grass and tear it out.
OP
Scooby074
Super Member
Reg : The clay in question IS the lawn 
There might be 1/4" of topsoil there under the turf if i looked close.
As soon as you slip a minute amount when its wet, the clay comes to the surface, packs the tires and its all over :laughing:
So far, it looks like Bars are winning. Assuming that they have the proper weight rating. They should be fine as theyre factory? Plus Massey offers the same tires as well.
What about thickness? Are these Sub CUT R1's thicker than industrials or turfs?
There might be 1/4" of topsoil there under the turf if i looked close. As soon as you slip a minute amount when its wet, the clay comes to the surface, packs the tires and its all over :laughing:
So far, it looks like Bars are winning. Assuming that they have the proper weight rating. They should be fine as theyre factory? Plus Massey offers the same tires as well.
What about thickness? Are these Sub CUT R1's thicker than industrials or turfs?
Reg : The clay in question IS the lawn
As soon as you slip a minute amount when its wet, the clay comes to the surface, packs the tires and its all over :laughing:
So far, it looks like Bars are winning. Assuming that they have the proper weight rating. They should be fine as theyre factory? Plus Massey offers the same tires as well.
What about thickness? Are these Sub CUT R1's thicker than industrials or turfs?
Ahh, gottit...
The ANSI standard "contractor lawn" level of top soil.
I believe 0.248 inches is specified (-:
A couple of years ago I dropped by the local sports field when I saw a couple of tractors in action, they weren't the usual mowers, which is what caught my attention.
They were reconditioning the baseball diamond, most of the baseball field and "laying in" fresh clay.
I think this is the only time I have ever seen ANYONE deliberately working with clay.
What was MOST interesting (to a tractor nerd) was the tractor tires.
They had golf course (Galaxy) turf tires on the rear and - wait for it - - used racing slicks on the front.
OK, OK, so they work on areas that are pretty much flat, but they were pulling box blades and rakes around, so needed SOME traction.
They NEED to make fairly tight turns, they NEED to not churn up the work area.
I don't know how they raise the pitcher's mound, I didn't stay that long.
They get the front tires for free, 15 inch rims and WIDE !!!
Not useful to most of us, I just found it interesting at the time.
As regards "thickness & toughness" of R1s vs R4s, the R4s really win out.
R4s are the "Construction site tire" for Bob Cats and Back Hoes.
R1s are the "Plowed and tilled field tire" for farming.
R4s can also take a LOT more fluid ballast due to their larger width, something like 55 gallons for the 17.5Lx24 R4s vs about 35 for the standard R1s on my smallest tractor.
40 more gallons total.. something like 440 lbs of total RimGuard ballast.
In SOME conditions the lower ground pressure due to additional width is GOOD for traction, you tend to "float over" mud and muck instead of "digging into" it.
The R1 will dig you out, but it is most likely the cause of the low ruts that have worn there anyway (-:
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,326
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
Old argument but to me turfs a worthless on a tractor. Its like putting street tires on a 4x4 truck. R4's are ok but do not hold a candle to R1's for traction. I have R1's on both my tractors and have used R4's on other peoples tractors and there was no comparison. I spend 1/2 my time in the woods logging and not one single flat with nearly 900 hours and 8 years. I also mow my 3 acre lawn. Its never been a problem. Just do not mow when its wet or make real sharp turns.
Chris
Chris