Price Check Massey Furgeson 150

[Inolaway]

I found a 1960s mf 150 diesel tractor for sale. The serial number is
343586d.
It is in fair condition
Alternator does not work
Front end loader needs new hoses and seals in the lift cylinders
Diesel cut off cable is missing
Tires have good tread just old and cracked
Considerable dent in the sheet metal front
Needs new seat
No other equipment just the tractor with front loader.
Needs new paint.
The owner would not price it just said to make offer?
Any guesses on what I should offer?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I found a 1960s mf 150 diesel tractor for sale. The serial number is
343586d.
It is in fair condition
Alternator does not work
Front end loader needs new hoses and seals in the lift cylinders
Diesel cut off cable is missing
Tires have good tread just old and cracked
Considerable dent in the sheet metal front
Needs new seat
No other equipment just the tractor with front loader.
Needs new paint.
The owner would not price it just said to make offer?
Any guesses on what I should offer?

AH! The MF150! My personal favorite!

When the MF150 w/Perkins AD3-152 was initially tested at Univ of Nebraska, it was the most fuel efficient tractor tested to date. Time has been kind to the little Perkins. They're still amongst the most efficient engines EVER built. I can pull a plow all day long with my 150 and not touch a gallon of fuel per hr. Essentially a 135 with the front clip off of a 165, the 150 features a heavier front axle, more fuel and cooling capacity, 7" longer wheel base, better power steering, about 750lbs more weight, and mounting points for mid-mount cultivators/loaders/ect, they'll work circles around a 135, which is a VERY highly respected tractor to this day. 150's came with most all the bells and whistle that were options on a 135, as standard equipment.

The Perkins AD3-152 had a production run of over 50 years. It found it's way into a number of Massey Ferguson models (ranging from 32pto hp, to the 38pto hp of the 150, and on to 52hp in a couple MF back hoes) , as wll as several other brands. (Allis Chalmers as an example) Massey Ferguson owned Perkins during those days. Caterpillar owns Perkins now days. The Perkins engines were built in the UK....There was a tarif on ag engines being exported at that time. 40hp was a break point where the tarif was increased, so Perkins/MF "de-rated" the engine to 37.88hp to avoid some of the cost. Mine was turned up in 1973 to 47hp. It'll dyno 47hp to this day.

Your "serial #" isn't a serial #......

1964 and 1965 models had a 9-digit number starting with 64XXXXXXX
'66 through '75 models had serial #'s starting with 9AXXXXXX (9A, then 6 digits)
No "d" in the serial numbers.....ONLY letter is the A in the "9A" years.
Serial numbers on 150's is found on a small metal plate ON THE DASHBOARD. Your number strikes me as an engine serial #, which tells us essentially NOTHING as far as year of the tractor. (might be able to "ball park" year of tractor though....)

ALL 150's were built in the US, (Detroit Mi) and sold in US market, so no UK serial numbers were ever issued to 150's

New, or good used tires could set you back $1000+ (for all 4)

Fuel shut-off cable is less than $40 (last one I bought anyway...)

Hoses and seals, IF YOU DO THE LABOR YOURSELF might add another $250+

"Alternator not working" could be anything from a rebuilt alternator to a complete re-wire, new volt reg, ect....MF 100 series had external regulators, genny OR alternator. If the alternator is "Factory", tractor is post 1969)

I've yet to see an old 100 series MF with a farm loader that DIDN'T have front end sheet metal damage.....There are several aftermarket sources for grill/sheet metal. Expect to spend several hundred bux if you replace.

Paint, if you do it yourself, will generally set you back a few hundred bux, plus a LOT of time/labor. The FEWER tractors you've ever been involved with painting, the MORE time it usually takes.

Aftermarket replacement seats usually set you back $100 to $200. THe OEM seat can be "re-cushioned" and new shock absorber for around $150.

"Rough but running" diesel 150's sell around here for $3500 to $4000. Lightweight farm loaders CAN add a few hundred bucks, but in some instances, they REDUCE value (reduce ability to sell....) In average to good condition, they sell here for $4500 to $6000.

What tranny? 3X2? 3X2 w/MultiPower? or 4X2? (4X2 is most preferred, and indicates later year model) AVOID "rough" MultiPower tractors as a generality.

Here's a few pics of my 150. 1971, Perkins diesel, 4X2 tranny, just over 3500hrs, owned it since new. Most reliable, efficient piece of equipment I've ever been around!

 

[Inolaway]

Thank you very much for your information. I will try to get a good number and a picture.
Your tractor looks great!!

 

[flusher]

I found a 1960s mf 150 diesel tractor for sale. The serial number is
343586d.
It is in fair condition
Alternator does not work
Front end loader needs new hoses and seals in the lift cylinders
Diesel cut off cable is missing
Tires have good tread just old and cracked
Considerable dent in the sheet metal front
Needs new seat
No other equipment just the tractor with front loader.
Needs new paint.
The owner would not price it just said to make offer?
Any guesses on what I should offer?

I bought a 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe with multipower in Jul06 for $3600 (in fair condition).
Check for leaks under the tractor--there's generally a weep hole or two on the bottom of the transmission housing. Bring a piece of 0.030" wire to ream out the hole. A few drops of oil is normal; steady dripping could mean a leaking rear engine seal on that Perkins diesel. The seal is relatively inexpensive, but replacing it can be a pretty intense DIY job or an expense in the shop.

Start the tractor with the engine cold and observe the color of smoke out of the exhause. A puff of white smoke is common. Check the color with the engine warmed up--if everything is OK, the exhaust should be colorless--blue is oil in the cylinders, black is a possible fuel system issue, white could be coolant leaking into cylinders (head gasket leak is a possibility).

Drive the tractor in every gear, forward and reverse. Look for problems shifting into gear, problems with clutch engagement, clutch slippage, funny noises.

Check the steering while driving around. If that 150's steering is like mine on the 135, it's not a true power steering--it's a power assist arrangement. If the steering is very stiff, check out the power steering pump, hoses for leaks. If no leaks, you may have to tear into the power steering unit on the steering column.

Check out the pto shifter and the pto clutching. If you have problems with the clutch, check the clutch linkage to see if there's any remaining adjustment capability. If not, you may have to split the tractor and do a clutch job.

Check the 3pt hitch operation perferably with a heavy load on the lift arms. The 3pt should lift the load and hold it up for at least a short time (minute or so). If the 3pt leaks down rapidly, you probably will have to dig into the hydraulics unit (seals, linkage parts, etc). The 3pt probably has draft control. I don't know how you check this out without a plow on the 3pt. If you intend to do plowing with this 150, you probably should be sure the draft control is working OK before buying.

You may be flying blind on the FEL--it may need more than hoses and seals in the rams--you may have to trouble shoot the FEL control valve unit.

Good luck.

 

[Inolaway]

Thank you for the heads. I do appreciate the pearls of wisdom.
By the way, I am in the central US just above Texas so I think the tractor would be worth 3000 from what I am seeing in my area. If it all checked out on the list you gave me.
I would be willing to work on it if I could locate parts. I am on 10 acres and I would use it for brush cutting and grade work with a box blade. The front end loader would come in handy as well.
Thanks again!!

 

[whistlepig]

Thank you for the heads. I do appreciate the pearls of wisdom.
By the way, I am in the central US just above Texas so I think the tractor would be worth 3000 from what I am seeing in my area. If it all checked out on the list you gave me.
I would be willing to work on it if I could locate parts. I am on 10 acres and I would use it for brush cutting and grade work with a box blade. The front end loader would come in handy as well.
Thanks again!!

If ever there was a tractor that was over built the 1960's Massey's sure fit this bill. I owned a 1964 MF 135 diesel for 25 years. I sold it because it was to big for my uses these days. These tractors are well worth the time and money to keep them running. I consider them one of the best mowing tractors ever made because of their stability on steep hills.

 

[Inolaway]

Yes I think the 150 would be overkill on my small 10acre ranchette but I think I would be money ahead to buy something like the 150 and restore, repair and use rather than put money into the compact tractor packages. Just because it's new does not make it better! I like the old stuff anyway. I drive a 1962 chevy to work every day, it even has AC!

 

[whistlepig]

Yes I think the 150 would be overkill on my small 10acre ranchette but I think I would be money ahead to buy something like the 150 and restore, repair and use rather than put money into the compact tractor packages. Just because it's new does not make it better! I like the old stuff anyway. I drive a 1962 chevy to work every day, it even has AC!

I didn't mean to say the 150 was overkill. Its just that I use a tractor now primarily for mowing my 7 acre yard. The MF135 was a bit too heavy for mowing a soft yard in the soring.

 

[mooseracing]

Yes I think the 150 would be overkill on my small 10acre ranchette

There are time you can never have enough power and weight. There are alot of times I would like a bigger tractor, then there are times I want a smaller one to fit in the woods better.

One day I will just settle and have a barn full

 

[thoner7]

AH! The MF150! My personal favorite!

When the MF150 w/Perkins AD3-152 was initially tested at Univ of Nebraska, it was the most fuel efficient tractor tested to date. Time has been kind to the little Perkins. They're still amongst the most efficient engines EVER built. I can pull a plow all day long with my 150 and not touch a gallon of fuel per hr. Essentially a 135 with the front clip off of a 165, the 150 features a heavier front axle, more fuel and cooling capacity, 7" longer wheel base, better power steering, about 750lbs more weight, and mounting points for mid-mount cultivators/loaders/ect, they'll work circles around a 135, which is a VERY highly respected tractor to this day. 150's came with most all the bells and whistle that were options on a 135, as standard equipment.

The Perkins AD3-152 had a production run of over 50 years. It found it's way into a number of Massey Ferguson models (ranging from 32pto hp, to the 38pto hp of the 150, and on to 52hp in a couple MF back hoes) , as wll as several other brands. (Allis Chalmers as an example) Massey Ferguson owned Perkins during those days. Caterpillar owns Perkins now days. The Perkins engines were built in the UK....There was a tarif on ag engines being exported at that time. 40hp was a break point where the tarif was increased, so Perkins/MF "de-rated" the engine to 37.88hp to avoid some of the cost. Mine was turned up in 1973 to 47hp. It'll dyno 47hp to this day.

Your "serial #" isn't a serial #......

1964 and 1965 models had a 9-digit number starting with 64XXXXXXX
'66 through '75 models had serial #'s starting with 9AXXXXXX (9A, then 6 digits)
No "d" in the serial numbers.....ONLY letter is the A in the "9A" years.
Serial numbers on 150's is found on a small metal plate ON THE DASHBOARD. Your number strikes me as an engine serial #, which tells us essentially NOTHING as far as year of the tractor. (might be able to "ball park" year of tractor though....)

ALL 150's were built in the US, (Detroit Mi) and sold in US market, so no UK serial numbers were ever issued to 150's

New, or good used tires could set you back $1000+ (for all 4)

Fuel shut-off cable is less than $40 (last one I bought anyway...)

Hoses and seals, IF YOU DO THE LABOR YOURSELF might add another $250+

"Alternator not working" could be anything from a rebuilt alternator to a complete re-wire, new volt reg, ect....MF 100 series had external regulators, genny OR alternator. If the alternator is "Factory", tractor is post 1969)

I've yet to see an old 100 series MF with a farm loader that DIDN'T have front end sheet metal damage.....There are several aftermarket sources for grill/sheet metal. Expect to spend several hundred bux if you replace.

Paint, if you do it yourself, will generally set you back a few hundred bux, plus a LOT of time/labor. The FEWER tractors you've ever been involved with painting, the MORE time it usually takes.

Aftermarket replacement seats usually set you back $100 to $200. THe OEM seat can be "re-cushioned" and new shock absorber for around $150.

"Rough but running" diesel 150's sell around here for $3500 to $4000. Lightweight farm loaders CAN add a few hundred bucks, but in some instances, they REDUCE value (reduce ability to sell....) In average to good condition, they sell here for $4500 to $6000.

What tranny? 3X2? 3X2 w/MultiPower? or 4X2? (4X2 is most preferred, and indicates later year model) AVOID "rough" MultiPower tractors as a generality.

Here's a few pics of my 150. 1971, Perkins diesel, 4X2 tranny, just over 3500hrs, owned it since new. Most reliable, efficient piece of equipment I've ever been around!

Howdy y'all.

I'm looking at a MF 150 to buy too. I have 30 acres but maybe 10 of it is currently light brush, which will be yard/pasture. I'll be owing snow and using the loader to skid logs, move forward, dirt and luch, etc.

Farmwithjunk - what did you do to tune up your motor? My onlt worry is it would be powerful enough. I'm also looking at another tractor one size up, that's 57 horse, but I'm sure thats more than I'd need. (Sometimes that's good!)