Down to the wire -- Orange or Blue?

[Anonymous Poster]

Jeez, when it rains, it pours. And it is raining in Pennsylvania today.

So maybe I was all wet about the warranty issue. If there was ever a question, that seems to have been resolved.

Murph asked about the dealers -- they are both experienced and reputable. Orange is about 18 miles away, Blue is 40. Orange will guarantee a modest pick up and delivery fee for work that has to be done in the shop.

Sounds as though (except for you weenies that live in Florida) calcium or other environmentally friendly fluid is a must. I didn't like the idea of always putting weight on the back of the tractor to use the loader. (Of course, that's not a problem when I use my Case 580 loader/hoe)

Accessories to check -- back up light (a must, thanks), block heater (I asked about that and although it is an option for the Orange they apparently start pretty well with their pre-heat system -- any more thoughts on that?), cutter blade for the FEL (are those weld-on or bolt-on?), hooks for the bucket (the Blue dealer said that if he installed them it would void the warranty???)

Anyone have an opinion (always a scary thing to say on this site) about body work? Orange is sheet metal, Blue is fiberglass -- so one dents, and the other cracks?

Zozo

 

[nitronut1]

If you're in New Jersey and looking for a Kubota, check out PowerCo.., exit 13 off 78. (908) 735-2149 ask for Ray. I've been very pleased with them.

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color="blue"> bumper to bumper </font>

Hey... does this mean absolutely everything is covered... that's between the "bumpers"... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[grandad]

Unless you plan on taking your new tractor down into Philly's rush hour traffic, the difference between sheet metal and fiberglas probably isn't going to be much of an issue /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Not to belittle the warranty issue, but just some perspective. You have high likelihood of going through the entire warranty period without a single need of repair - with either brand you are considering. These machines are designed for heavy work and usually need only good basic maintenance and sensible operation. My orange tractor has done a year's worth of major work without so much as a loose bolt, and will no doubt outlive me.

Other comments: cutter blade for FEL (aka toothbar)... definite plus... easy bolt on/off. If you have a loader, you'll definitely want rear weight of some kind.

Pay the most attention to 1. which dealer inspires confidence and will work with you; and 2. which tractor you like the best. Good luck and have fun choosing!

 

[thcri]

Zozo,

I don't think your all wet on the warranty issue. The first dealer I went to was a Kubota dealer, he told me the same thing, Kubota had 3 years and why in the He** would I want to buy anything like New Holland that only had one year. I had no intention of looking at New Holland until this guy bad mouthed it so bad. That was just that sales rep. There is bad reps in all lines. But it is easy to get confused when sales people tend to stretch the truth. So don't feel bad. You have gotten lots of valuable information here and if I was you I would go with what you feel best with. As far as that warranty on the New Holland and the cutter bar I can not understand why that would void any warranty. The block heater I guess if you are in a cold climate I still would get it. No matter what it will help your starts. Sleep some on this and maybe even give it some time, maybe one of them dealers will call you back and ask you what he can do to make the sale. You never know, one of them may drop the price a bit. You said the Kubota dealer was fairly close with a minimal pick up/drop off fee? I guess I would also compare the charges for the New Holland especially when he is 40 miles away. 40 miles is not far but find out the charge. Good luck in whatever you do.

murph

 

[Anonymous Poster]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( except for you weenies that live in Florida)...)</font>

Hey, I resemble that remark! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But, something you said is a little bit related to the warranty. Much as I like Blue, I'd be worried about a dealer who is so **** he thinks that bolting or welding hooks on a bucket would void a warranty! What the heck kind of warranty is there on a bucket, anyhow? If all the bucket factory welds split open, are they seriously going to blame the hooks?!?

Now, if he had said he didn't want to weld on the hooks because he didn't want the liability if they broke, then I'd respect that - I do the same in my business. It's not a biggie - most welding shops have portable equipment and will make a house call, especially if they are already in the area for another call. I bought my hooks at Home Depot.

 

[Spencer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Anyone have an opinion (always a scary thing to say on this site) about body work? Orange is sheet metal, Blue is fiberglass -- so one dents, and the other cracks?)</font>

I'm not sure that the New Hollands are made of fiberglass. I would love to hear what everyone thinks they are made of. I know a very large branch I was trying to place on top of a brush pile fell backwards off my bucket and landed right on my hood without damaging it. It made a huge sound and I thought for sure that there would be damage but I could not find a scratch.

 

[MODiesel]

They are fiberglass. I had a branch fall and crack mine clean through, right around the fuel tank. I took it in to a shop that does lots of boat repairs and the told me it was a laminate fiberglass. Took them about a week to grind, relay, paint and clearcoat the hood. Hardest part was getting the right paint. They are fiberglass, but it's a pretty stout variety.

Later,
Jay

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I was surprised to find that the TC18 hood is steel. I found out the hard way, scratching it when it was about a week old. I was pretty busy at the time so I ignored it, thinking it was aa gouge in the gel coat. The next day, I had a light coat of surface rust on the scratch.

 

[RickB]

Bolt on cutting edges and toothbars are not the same; even though that has been suggested. We install a block heater on EVERY NH tractor we sell, but I know of several stored away from electricity that need to start for snow removal and do every time. We are in NY's Hudson Valley so it does get cold here. NH also offers an extended warranty (5yrs?) that can be purchased in addition to the base warranty. Steel hoods dent, fiberglass will crack if either is hit hard enough. Fiberglass won't rust. I don't think either is a dealbreaker. We only sell tractors WITHOUT loaded rears at customer request. We have used RimGuard exclusively for about 2 years.