Is my line of thinking logical?

[Bluegill2]

Appreciate the responses guys. I'll probably go with one remote and the hydraulic shuttle. What do you guys think of the Kubota MX series. I've heard it's kind of a bare boned tractor, but at this point it should have everything I would need. I don't think they come with a remote. Also I would go open cab, ag tires, 4WD. Front loader, rotary cutter, post hole digger. What's the learning curve on using the front loader to even out the driveway? Is it worth it to get a box blade? Thanks again.

a MX5100 HST 4x4 w LA844 quicktatch loader will do everything you want it todo an more.an its a nice size tractor.if your going tobe in the woods alot you really need R4 tires.as they wont puncture so easy.

MX is Fine! I like bare bones tractors, but the MX isn't all that bare. 50hp is plenty for what you described, 35-45hp would do the jobs.

We have 400 acres, mowing, road work, firewood, clearing and logging. Have a 45hp and 38hp, both 4wd w/loaders. I use the 38hp more, because I like it better...

 

[TripleR]

I have no personal experience with the MX5100, but everything I have read on here by owners has been positive.

Like others, I really like a box blade for all around utility such as smoothing roads and moving dirt. I find a hydraulic toplink to be really helpful. Others prefer these, but I have no personal experience with one; there is a long thread on them somewhere on here. GS25 Series Grading Scrapers | Land Pride

As to tires transmission and tires it's a never ending debate.

 

[pat32rf]

I'm in your position as regards to acrage and chores. Owned a JD4300 for ten years now and there have been very few times I wanted anything bigger. Much rather have the smaller size of a 30-40hp HST when around the buildings or bush.
The only time its too small is when I'm trying to move really big rocks.....

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Does it sound like I could go with a little less tractor, maybe something around 50 HP?

Also I have a full time job so getting the jobs done in a timely fashion is a must. Thanks in advance.

illymost,

We LOVE"what should I buy?" threads, no need to apologize. :thumbsup:

Please look at the Kioti DK50. I have about half the acreage, but many of the same concerns and ideas. My Kioti was the biggest, best bang for the buck last summer when I was in the exact same spot. I got the most tractor, most features, and most attachments for the least $$$. I also got a great dealer in the process.

This is a great tractor with plenty of umph for every job I've tried.

Be well, and welcome to TBN!
David

Welcome to TBN, we LIVE for "what should I buy?" threads sir, no need to apologize.

I have about 1/2 the land, but many of the same conditions and concerns you do. I've been cleaning up clea

 

[illymost]

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm gonna go to the dealer this weekend and see if I can't test drive the MX5100 and M5140. Then I'll try to resist the urge to hop on a 7040. Wish me luck.

I read somewhere on this forum that dealers have been known to go 15% under MSRP. Is this a commonly accepted practice or does it vary? What factors go into it? Other than how bad the dealer needs to sell a tractor. Thanks again.

 

[smilinjak]

Illymost:
You mentioned one set of remotes. That is about a third of what you should start with unless you are handy with hydraulics. Three wouldn't be three times the money while the dealer is into the job. Saves a lot of time to have it done during the set up before you take delivery. The only way you could do any good on the driveway with the FEL would be to use it in a back blade fashion. That takes a lot of time and doesn't turn out very well either. A box blade is ideal with second choice being a 3 point scrape blade. The scrape blade could be used for snow removal in an area that gets enough snow to need it. I don't think your part of Georgia gets that much.
As far as price, it is like buying a car. Make a low offer and work from there. I have had the best luck establishing a base price then negotiating price for the add ons. I would have the rear tires filled with a non-corrosive fluid like Rim-Gard. There are ways and product you can use to do it yourself and save a few bucks. There is a thread on this site that goes into that. My choice is R4 tires but some folks swear by Ag tires. Both have advantages. Have fun shopping!!!!!!!!!!
Smilinjak

 

[illymost]

Went up to the property last weekend and talked with the owner (we close the end of Aug.). He said a lot of the trails and bush hogging took too long for his taste with a 50 HP tractor. He actually has a M6800 and said it takes him 2 days to mow the pasture and keep all the trails open. Before that he said it was a 3 day job. So I said F*** it. Started looking at the M7040HD-1. FEL, 2 remotes, non corrosive in the tires, best quote so far was $34,448.00. I'll be going the low financing route. What do you guys think about that price?

Also think I'm going to go for the Bushhog 326 rotary cutter although I haven't started getting quotes on any implements yet.

 

[joshuabardwell]

If you get a loader, do not fail to also get a ballast box and, if desired, loaded tires. Not knowing a lot about tractors, I significantly under-estimated the importance of rear ballast with a loader, and only really fully realized when I took the loader off for a task and was amazed at how differently the tractor handled. IMO, the choice between loaded tires AND a ballast box or just a good, heavy ballast box is debatable. IMO, loaded tires alone are insufficient, because they do not take any weight off the front axles, which I believe is important with an FEL--and my tractor's user manual agrees with me. It has lift capacity for ballast+loaded tires or ballast alone, but doesn't even mention loaded tires alone. And seriously, don't even think about passing on ballast entirely with an FEL. Yes, you can get by. I am right now, because I didn't know better when I purchased. But I'm putting more load on my front axle than I need to, and I'm taking unnecessary risks every time I put significant weight in the bucket.

If you have a heavy enough box blade or some other such implement, you may choose to use it as rear ballast instead of a dedicated box.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Also think I'm going to go for the Bushhog 326 rotary cutter although I haven't started getting quotes on any implements yet.

Feel free to buy new implements if that's what floats your boat, but keep in mind that there is a robust secondary market on 3-point implements, and you can find 100% serviceable equipment at as much as 50% of new price. You pay a lot for that fresh paint job!

 

[illymost]

I'd love to find a used 326 but so far, online I've seen only two and both were already sold.