Comparison weight for loader work versus mowing yard damage

[UncleAl]

Here's one from Firestone.
I really appreciate your insights re: the BX. I don't anticipate doing the heavy stuff you attempted. My f-i-l and b-i-l run a grading business, big cat loader and cat BH, about an hour away from me. I can always hire them for big stuff.
I guess time will tell if I underestimated my needs.

Update on my search: talked with Kubota rep at a third dealer today. Evidently they've had quite a run on all compact / subcompact trax because of the 0% factory financing, BX22's are in somewhat short supply. He promised me they could find one for me in a week or so. This dealer had one on the lot that was already sold, but they let me take it for a spin. Pretty nimble little beast. Pretty good impression thus far. Have two quotes, waiting for a third. Unless I find something drastic that makes me lean away again, I'll probably make a move in the next week or so...

 

[UncleAl]

oops, missed picture, try again.
UncleAl

 

[buzst]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

Jimg,
What you are doing is very similar to what I do with my B2150. The turf tires are much better in the snow than the r4's. In the woodlot the r4's would tear through the pine needles and leaves on the ground and quickly fill up with the soft wet dirt underneath and spin. the turfs ride on top of the needles nicely. They have not yet been effected by the rocks, stumps or fallen branches I am always running over (though I do remain concerned). The turfs also took far more fluid, making the machine much more stable on hills. But, what I like best is that I just completed moving 22 tons of stone across a damp finished lawn doing virtually no damage to the lawn.

 

[jimg]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

OK, this is really good input. Do you blow or push snow? Im planning to blow it so less traction is required generally. Do you use chains in the winter w/ the turfs?

My main concern in the woods is stumps...those small ones that wind up smashing thru a side wall. How long have you been using it in th woods?
jimg

 

[Winejon]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

I would like to second Glenmac and Boondox on being skeptical of R4s, and relate that I have done more lawn damage with turf tires than I have with ag tires. This is because the former are so much more prone to spinning, which is how the real damage is done. If ag tires are leaving cleat marks, then R4s will too, and that indicates that the ground is too soft and wet--which is the condition in which turf tires will spin too easily on all but the most level terrain, chewing up the lawn before you realize what happened.
I'll take the superior traction of R1s any day. R4s aren't really a compromise; they're a tread designed, as other posters have pointed out, for dry construction-site work--preferably on hard surfaces, such as cement and hardpan.

 

[glennmac]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

Let me factor into my opinion the good points others are making about soft soil, hills and flat tires. (This is all with respect to mowing and light loader work, not with respect to construction/contractor work or serious dirt engaging such as plowing.)

If soil is wet and soft, R1's and R4's will both leave tread marks. R3's are best here for avoiding tread impressions. But don't spin any of the tires or push them into turns, including R3's, or you will get spin holes and tear-up.

If land is hilly, especially when wet, you will lose traction the easiest with R3's, followed closely by R4's. The best traction on wet and dry hills will be with R1's. R1's are also the best at preventing sideways slides on wet or snowy hills because their lugs are set at a 45 degree angle. R3's and R4's will slide sideways. Of course, while R1's give the best traction on wet hills, they may leave tread marks if it is wet enough to make the soil soft.

Tentative conclusions re flat land: If your land is essentially flat or with gentle rises, you can use R3's when dry or wet with the least worry about tread marks. The additional traction of lugged tires is not necessary on the flats, and both R1's and R4's will leave tread impressions when it is wet.

Tentative conclusions re hilly land: If your land is hilly, you can use R1's or R3's when it is dry without worrying about about tread tear (if you drive carefully). R4's offer no advantage on dry hills. If the hills are wet, you risk slipping with R3's and leaving tread marks with R1's. The so-called "compromise" of R4's is to no avail here, IMO; you will both slip and leave tread marks. So, if you have hills, it is best and safest not to mow at all until they dry out, no matter what tires you have. Since the overlying slippery grass on the hills will dry out before the underlying wet soil, an R3 tractor may be ready to mow without slipping before an R1 tractor will be ready to mow without imprinting.

With these factors in mind, I think any tire is adequate for the comparatively light and infrequent loader work most CUT users engage in.

Flats can happen to any tire. The fronts are FAR more likely to get flats than the rears. (We have had surveys here in the past.) I have gotten flats in the fronts of both my R4 tires. Rear tires of all treads are comparatively thick and strong. Absent really unusual and continuous usage circumstances (such as primarily working on construction sites or in forestry), I wouldn't let the fear of flats ***** the decisions I come to based on the other factors. Front flats can be completely avoided by foam fill, should you wish to pay for that insurance.

 

[buzst]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

Actually I pull snow... There is a 6' back blade on the machine, and I just drive forward and the blade cleans up behind. Did have to rotate the blade to push back the piles after some of the storms we had in NH this season.

About half of the machines 100 hours has been spent in the woodlot and (fingers crossed) so far no problems with sharp stumps. It remains a concern, but most of the time the potential hazards are broken off by the tires

 

[OkieG]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

<font color="blue"> most of the replies were along the lines of R4s are a no brainer </font> I must not have chimed in, in that thread. I'm not as adamant as glennmac, but I am a fan of R-1s.

<font color="blue"> Most of what Im doing says ag tires exc the finish mowing which Id estimate at less than 50% of the time. </font> Did I mention I'm a fan of R-1s?? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Here's a picture of my lawn...cut an hour ago with R-1s and MMM. Soil is sandy...3/4" of rain Friday night.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

Here's a second shot. See any tire marks?? Minimal, if any.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Re: weight for loader work versus mowing yard dama

Finally, here's the softest corner of the yard. Do you see the tracks?

The track marks will likely be gone tomorrow, and they will only bother you if you let them.

For me, the benefit of extra traction when doing "real" tractor work outweighs the drawback of track marks after mowing.

Certainly, each tire type excels in one application or another...but, I really like R-1s. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

OkieG