We own a JD and Kubota SCUT and up to an M8540. Like jenkinsph, any mentioned will do the job. The one tractor for all tasks is going to necessarily mandate a compromise, so figure out which will leave the smallest amount of compromise. Without looking at the property in person, I really couldn't recommend a 1026R over a 2520 or vice versa. You might talk to your dealers to see if you can try one out and if not drive them on site as much as possible.
As to brand, we own more Kubotas than anything else, but always recommend trying then all out. My brother has a lot of knowledge and experience and just bought a Kioti as the best bang for his buck though he too likes Kubota, John Deere, Massey Ferguson etc.
As others have mentioned - the 1026r is a great Swiss Army Knife machine. Does lots of stuff, does it reasonably well, and keeps the cost down a bit compared to larger tractors. But, it absolutely doesn't do the same work as the CUTS do. Smaller mowing decks, smaller 3PH capabilities, and lower lifting capacities with the loader.
When you're evaluating a new machine, I always recommend that write out the tasks that your machine will need to go regularly and buy a machine based on the heaviest regular work it will have to do.
If you're going to still have someone else do the brush hog work, don't buy for that capability unless you want to someday take that on yourself.
When deciding on how much loader capability you need, look at it from the perspective of "how much mulch will I put down every year, how much does a bucket-worth weigh, how far do I have to move it, and how many loads do I need to be done in?"
If your terrain has a slope to it, you need to be considerate of that for moving across the slope. Sure, a very large machine will drive the mower deck, but will it stay upright on that slope? You may be well-served by doing a dual machine thing - get a garden tractor to mow with and a small CUT or SCUT for everything else.
If you go the route of a SCUT or CUT from JD, I implore you to leave $1,000 aside to get yourself a set of Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks. They are immensely useful.
I checked my paperwork and the tractor was 21,246 and the loader (300 CX) was 4,910. It is a hydro with R-4's. I also got the mid PTO, rear Power Beyond and front plumbing to run a grapple. I'm having a great time with it. Hope that helps!Quote:
Originally Posted by itpdk9
I got the machine, 200cx loader w/ CUT Carrier (JDQA) and front brush guard, 61" bucket, 62D MMM w/ mulch kit, ballast box, 54" front-mount blower, and had the rears filled. I also had the power chute control option installed, the chute deflector option, and got the additional brackets to allow for the simplest changes between loader / mower and snowblower. Total for me, in including local sales tax and the Artillian forks w/ shipping, and I came in a couple thousand under the cost of your 3320 and loader. Considering the base price of the 2520 is about $4000 less than the 3320 and I got a $2500 rebate, that accounts for the bulk of the pricing difference.
The 2520 consists of: 26HP, MFWD (4x4), mid and rear PTO, foldable ROPS, hydrostatic transmission, and turf tires.
Makes me wonder now. I guess I really need to test a 1026R and 2520. The 955 didn't bog down once.
Maybe you need to look at some bigger tractors like a 3032 or 3038 or a Kubota B3200 L3200 or L3800.
A 5 foot mower won't bog anything over 20 hp. Don't get too hung up on hp. There is a lot more to consider. If u want to stay with a 5' mower, should then turn focus to nimbleness. The 2520 is more modern than a 955 and has plenty of power.