That would make the old NP203 a 4wd then. Even though it has a diff in the t-case, it has a high and low range.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckgnarly
Bu now what about tractors that dont have a high-low in the t-case per-say??
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That would make the old NP203 a 4wd then. Even though it has a diff in the t-case, it has a high and low range.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckgnarly
Bu now what about tractors that dont have a high-low in the t-case per-say??
Good question....but I guess SAE does not care about tractors:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by LD1
Well I guess all of those times I was told by the factory reps at Kubota that they tried to match the wheel speed I was being mislead. Even if the optimum lead is 2% there is still only a limited window of tire inflation and tire wear where this is actually achieved.
I wonder if there is a STE??:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckgnarly
I am not denying what you are saying. And maybe kubota does try to do a 0% lead/lag. But these discussions have come up several times on this very website. And it is generally agreed upon that up to 5% lead is accepted as normal. Otherwise, when the fronts do wear down, you would end up with a lag condition, which is not desirable.Quote:
Originally Posted by brain55
Here, this is a good read http://www.firestoneag.com/webres/Fi...fo-LeadLag.pdf
Think about it for a minute. Suppose that the fronts were driving slower than the rears, then the rears would end up pushing the fronts which would not be good. It would also be bad for steering if the fronts were driving slower than the rears.
Having a little bit of lead for the fronts will improve traction and steering.
Also all the AWD vehicles (mostly station wagons on steroids) I have seen don't have low range like a typical 4WD truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckgnarly
By Agricultural Tractor design.manufacturing nomenclature/definition:-
- a 4WD has equal size wheels, is capable of taking equal loading/power through only the front axle & running constantly as a 4WD, 4WD may be selectable together with independent engagement of centre, front & rear diff locks
- a FWA (front wheel assist) or MFWD has unequal sized axles/wheels with a noticeably smaller front set & cannot take equal loading/power through solely the front axle, FWA/MFWD is selectable, rear diff lock is also usually selectable & a front diff lock may or may not be fitted.
4WD's, FWA's & MFWD's can all run single, dual or triple tyres on one or all axles, the number of tyres does not dictate the drive definition, afterall equal size single or dual tyres can be fitted on both axles of a 2WD tractor.........
As for AWD vs 4WD SUV's/Trucks:-
- in a AWD, power is transmitted/biased via either only the front or rear axle, all wheel drive is only available "on demand" via auto engagement & cannot be engaged manuall for constant AWD running, they do not have mechanical transfer boxes & rely usually upon a viscous or electro mechanical coupling type intermediate reduction drive/variance on diff ratio's front to back (e.g Toyota Highlandger/Kluger)
- 4WD's, can be constant all wheel drive applying drive at all times to front & rear axles (e.g Range Rover, Subaru, Toyota 200 Landcruiser) or with manually engaged selectable 4WD (Landcruiser 78 series, Unimog, Pinzgaur) the vehicles may or may not have low range/centre or axle diff locks but will have a mechanical transfer box coupling the front/rear axles by viscous, mechanical or electro mechanical means..etc
All 4wd's have the front working against the back to some degree. If not, one end or the other isn't doing the job at the same time. If one end is freewheeling while the other is end not then 4wd it isn't. These are not true "lockers". Both the front and rear have differentials. They wouldn't steer very well if they didn't have differentials. Try leaving your truck in full time 4wd all the time. You will be shopping for some universal joints very quickly.
Quote:
Tyres for B6100 or B7100 4x4 with grip
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I have been looking for a replacement set of tyres for my 6100 for ages and have a solution that works. I wanted wide tyres that would not cut up the grass but also wanted them to grip the snow and mud as I use a FEL.
So as I have seen others asking the same questions on Orange I thought I would pass this on.
The problem is the interactual ratio, get it wrong and its going to cost you! We know what Rolling Circumference (RC) we need and the gear ratio (1.464) but can we find front and rear tyres that work? No! You get a good Agri rear but have to go turf on the front.
Well I now have a set on my tractor that meets all the requirements above. They are as follows:
Rear - 29 x 12.50 x 15 (RC = 88 inch @ 15psi) Carlisle TRU POWER
Front - 20 x 8 x 10 (RC = 62 inch @ 25psi) Kenda K378
Tyre Inner Tubes, Quad Bike Tyres, ATV Tyres, Turf Tyres, Wheelbarrow Tyres, Ride On Lawn Mower Tyres, Golf Buggy Tyres, Sack Truck Tyres
62 x 1.464 = 90.768 divided by 88 = 1.0314 minus 1 x 100 = 3.14 %
well within the 0-5% lead reccomended by Kubota
Both front and rears have Agri tread pattern and grip very well, but are wide so do not sink. Best of all is they look fantastic.
I'm also changing out my tire size. The above is a quote pasted from another site..........I used a similar formula to change my size.
From everthing I read there is a front wheel lead.
When you move up from a 2wd to a 4wd (FWA).........call it what you want.........it's a world of difference.
Yeah I drive Jeep............Only in a Jeep:) 4.10 front and 4.11 rear
The difference between 4.10 and 4.11 is 0.24%. Almost negligible. On a 30" tire, that would be 1/16" difference in overall height. (or 1/32" difference in tread wear). Again, negligible.:thumbsup:
Same thing with 3.54 and 3.55 gears.