Tractor Sizing Tractor Recomendations please $5k and under

[flusher]

OK guys, found a couple tractors that seem to fit my criteria. Share your thoughts, both in terms of reliability, potential repair cost differences, functions/features that are good bad, etc. Basically do you feel these are a good match for me and if so which one and why.
MF135 Perkins Diesel 2100hrs well maintained in very good condition(their words, not mine), 4spd hi/low trans, live power, pto, newer tires and battery, tool box, extra lighting, $4900
View attachment 291411
Ford 3600 3cyl diesel 4200hrs, 8fwd speeds/2rvs, tires and rims are good(not loaded). He replaced a tube in one rear, water pump new 2yrs ago, injector pump rebuilt 2yrs ago($1800), 1 remote out back. $4500
View attachment 291412
thanks,
Ken

Prices seem high. I paid $3600 for a 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe in Jul06.
I suppose you're planning on using a rear blade with these for snow removal?

Good luck

 

[NICKB304]

old fords are probably the most popular in our area (mid mi). you can probably find a fixed up 8n with all the attachments you want for way under $5k

 

[Kenn1320]

old fords are probably the most popular in our area (mid mi). you can probably find a fixed up 8n with all the attachments you want for way under $5k

I have been told by many to stay away from the 8/9n tractors.

 

[Kenn1320]

Prices seem high. I paid $3600 for a 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe in Jul06.
I suppose you're planning on using a rear blade with these for snow removal?

Good luck

Yes looking to use a rear blade for snow removal, so filled tires and or weights and chains will be needed. Ive seen a few with front blades, that would probably work better.

 

[murphy1244]

repeat.

 

[murphy1244]

That MF is a 130 not a 135, is that correct? . Why is a 9n bad? A 3000 series is better.

 

[flusher]

I have been told by many to stay away from the 8/9n tractors.

You have to know how to evaluate those old Fords. Many of them have wornout engines and drive trains that will require rebuild. Three of my neighbors have bought old 8Ns. One had low compression and needed an engine rebuild which he did as a restoration project. Another neighbor tried to use his 8N with an old IH wire-tie baler he bought without using an over running clutch in the pto drive and managed to twist the internal pto shaft into a corkscrew. The 8N doesn't have an internal ORC. The third neighbor made the mistake of buying an 8N without thoroughly checking it out. Another case of low engine compression and there it sits awaiting an engine rebuild (unless he dumps it at a loss).

 

[Kenn1320]

That MF is a 130 not a 135, is that correct? . Why is a 9n bad? A 3000 series is better.

Murphy good catch. In my mind I thought it was a 135, but it is a 130. These 2 tractors are apples/oranges, thanks for bringing that to my attension.

 

[murphy1244]

The 3 thousand series tractors are good models, are these at a dealer?

 

[super55]

Both tractors would easily fill your niche for food plotting and snowblowing. Both have live PTO which is a real bonus for snowblowing/tilling. The ford has the bonus of 10 more Hp over the MF and a rear remote which would be nice if you ever decide to pull implements with a hydraulic lift cylinder. IMO I feel both are priced a little on the high end. I would say 3500 max for about either of them. If they don't bite no worries there are plenty of tractors for sale in Michigan that will fill your need.

8n/9n's are great little tractors if all you have to do is haul stuff. Their major limitation is there lowest gear is still generally too fast to run a tiller. These small ag tractors the: Ford Naa/jubilee, AC D-14, Oliver super 55(ended up buying one of these), IH/Farmal 504, and the MF 35 are about perfect for plotting up to 5ac All these models are mostly gas and can be picked up for about 2500. They are all in the 30-40hp range and offer some sort of live/independent PTO. Any tractor even an 8n will perform leaps and bound better than a quad for plotting. Quad implements usually aren't quite heavy enough and are far more $$$ than used farm implements.

A lot of these old tractors have a lot of life left in them you just have to be pretty thorough in looking them over. I always bring a compression gage with me to check the cylinder compression. This will give me a real quick idea of whether or not it has some worn rings or in need of valve job. Check for blue smoke. Run the tractor through all the gears/PTO, Stand on the brakes and see if the tires lock, then run the tractor in lowest gear and depress the brakes gradually (to create a load on the tractor) to see if the governor works correctly and the clutch isn't slipping. Don't do this for prolonged periods because sellers automatically think your trying to glaze the brakes and burn the clutch but you are the buyer and with these things all sales are usually final so it makes sense to check them out. Minor oil leaks from seals/gaskets are to be expected so I don't put much value on what is dripping. Most leaks from my experience are more of an eyesore than anything. Hope this helps with you finding a future tractor to fill your needs. Have any additional questions feel free to msg me.