The double spring... compensating spring at the end of the rod that loops through the top hole in the gov ARM...? If so I looked it over real good and lubed it a lil bit. seemed to be fine unless there is another way to test it...? Lil choke will kill it quick. Ran the finish mower for a couple hours today, and surged/hunted with load/no load. The only time it evens out is when I coast down any kinda of gradual slope.
A little bit more technical advice please
- Thread starter MickeyC
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Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
choke kills it?
hows the air cleaner?
hows the air cleaner?
Good, cut the retaining star looking ring out of the bottom, removed the old rusted wire element, soaked in degreaser, dried it out and installed 1 new pack (2 individual wire elements) on center tube. Reassembled , and filled the oil cup at the bottom with 30w. I did leave it about 1/2" low cause the oil seemed to saturate the bottom of the new elements when I had it right at the fill lone of the cup. Yes a lil touch of choke does just that... It chokes it out and if I hold it it would choke out and shut off.... Even with just with the tiny-est bit.
Soundguy
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fill that oil cup up to the fill line. if you think the oil getting on the floss is a problem.. good thing you don't have xray vision. that oil geats all sucked up in there when running.
On the choke flapper. make sure it is installed correctly, and the lil window flap can suck in and make an air path to the carb when the choke is pulled.
A hair of choke surely should not stall the tractor. .. if it does.. it is running way way way too rich.
she sould like she's gurgling any?
make black smoke on fast throttleup?
plugs black and furry?
On the choke flapper. make sure it is installed correctly, and the lil window flap can suck in and make an air path to the carb when the choke is pulled.
A hair of choke surely should not stall the tractor. .. if it does.. it is running way way way too rich.
she sould like she's gurgling any?
make black smoke on fast throttleup?
plugs black and furry?
10-4 on the oil cup. I will fill it up. I am not sure on the choke flapper... I will check it out. Plugs are flat black color with the electrode being a brownish caulky color. No black hairy looking stuff. Although the #4 is a touch darker in color than the other 3. YES... She is gurgling... No black smoke. When I run up the throttle fast (but not all the time) it blows a little white-ish smoke. It will blow that little bit of white-ish smoke when it is surging and it comes back and pulls on the gov hard.
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
she's rich. gurgling is rich.. and black is rich.
light tan is a healthy color for plugs....
that's why choke is killing her.
lean her out till snatching the throttle open causes a stumble to speed up.. then enrich a hair so she will throttle up with no stumble or stutter.
double checkt he air tube for obstruction. obstruceted air tube acts like choke. n easy test is to pull air tube off carb and see if she runs different.
also.. don't run light solvent/oil/fuel oil, mineral spirits, etc.. in the air cleaner cup. vacume will cause vapor pressure and misting and make her run rich..
light tan is a healthy color for plugs....
that's why choke is killing her.
lean her out till snatching the throttle open causes a stumble to speed up.. then enrich a hair so she will throttle up with no stumble or stutter.
double checkt he air tube for obstruction. obstruceted air tube acts like choke. n easy test is to pull air tube off carb and see if she runs different.
also.. don't run light solvent/oil/fuel oil, mineral spirits, etc.. in the air cleaner cup. vacume will cause vapor pressure and misting and make her run rich..
Yes sir straight 30w in the oil cup. Air tube is good, I've had it off and cleaned out about 10 times. But i will try to run it without the air tube. I have read contradicting carb starting points and adjustments. What are your suggestions? Because 1 to 5 turns out on the main does not seem to make a difference with throttle up, or take any surging out...?
Soundguy
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1 to 5?
5 turns out probably means the needle is in your hand.. free of the carb.
whereever you read that. un-bookmark that site. they are not helping people.
baseline i use on a ms carb is to start at about 1.5 turns out and jockey up to 2 or down, in 1/8 turn increments. I don't recall many that run UNDER 1.5 and have none that run OVER 2 1/8. occasioanlly in the cold I will have a '2' tht wants alil adjustment to 2+ but that's pretty normal.
if you can adjsut a needle way out with no change to engine.. your carb is way dirty.. or you have fuel flow issues... or the seat is missing or damaged..or the needle is wrong, short or damaged.
Yes you are right 5 turns out just about puts the needle in my hand, so much so that fuel will start to leak out around the needle a little bit.
Carb has been cleaned multiple times. The last time with the chem dip I triple checked all passages, all blew air through them, and used a mini led light and bore light to verify all passages where open. After the chem dip carb looked new, inside and out.
Put a new main needle, seat and o-ring in the carb, Bought it from just8n's as far as I have seen only the 172ci carbs use that style needle with the little roll pin through the end for adjustment rather than the other that have the knurled knob on the end.
I checked flow by pulling carb drain plug and letting fuel run out into a jar for a counted 75 seconds. I noticed after the fuel that filled the bowl rushed out, the flow let up a little bit, but still stayed a steady flow no trickling or breaks in the flow.
I did notice that I am missing the little assist spring in the carb that goes under the float and between the little holder bracket that pins off to the float pin...?
Carb has been cleaned multiple times. The last time with the chem dip I triple checked all passages, all blew air through them, and used a mini led light and bore light to verify all passages where open. After the chem dip carb looked new, inside and out.
Put a new main needle, seat and o-ring in the carb, Bought it from just8n's as far as I have seen only the 172ci carbs use that style needle with the little roll pin through the end for adjustment rather than the other that have the knurled knob on the end.
I checked flow by pulling carb drain plug and letting fuel run out into a jar for a counted 75 seconds. I noticed after the fuel that filled the bowl rushed out, the flow let up a little bit, but still stayed a steady flow no trickling or breaks in the flow.
I did notice that I am missing the little assist spring in the carb that goes under the float and between the little holder bracket that pins off to the float pin...?
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
not really assis. .. unless you mean to drop it.. etc..