Thoughts for downsizing

[Don87]

Just wrong. It can't do everything. Not even close to everything, even if given an eternity.

I'm glad you put my actual quote in that post. Everyone can see how you've conitinually misconstrued everything I've actually stated.

Until you've actually used one of these subcompacts, you will never appreciate the capabilities. As has been clearly shown in your posts.

[paulharvey]

I agree with the L2800 and dedicated mower, for several reasons.
1. Money, plain and simple, $1200 for a rider and good to go
2. He might need more than 1000# scut to dig if hes got rocky/shale/clay, he is on a mountain
3. You might expand what you want to do in a year or three, and find that you have to go back to CUT from a SCUT.
4. You could add a finish or flail mower to mow the yard area and only be out maybe $400~$900
5. Doesnt a MMM basically rule out any real dirt moving with out removing it? Dont know this for sure, I just dont see the MMM being very convenient

[Don87]

I agree with the L2800 and dedicated mower, for several reasons.
1. Money, plain and simple, $1200 for a rider and good to go
2. He might need more than 1000# scut to dig if hes got rocky/shale/clay, he is on a mountain
3. You might expand what you want to do in a year or three, and find that you have to go back to CUT from a SCUT.
4. You could add a finish or flail mower to mow the yard area and only be out maybe $400~$900
5. Doesnt a MMM basically rule out any real dirt moving with out removing it? Dont know this for sure, I just dont see the MMM being very convenient

As I said in post 24, he needs to get the L2800 to the new property and try it out before making any decisions.

I'll also add that my subcut is near the 2,000lb. mark with the FEL and loaded tires.

[Cloudrnnr]

Folks, Okay, okay, I am convinced. Now I just have to find the right rider for the mowing duties. I have the "Tim Taylor" complex for wanting a high end machine, but I have to admit, my $400 MTD off of craigslist has been very, very hard to kill despite nearly 5 years of Texas sand and oak droppings. It is at the point of being on life support, but the dang thing just keeps on starting.

On the L2800, currently I have the stock R1s. Would going to R4s increase the slope stability any?

[Cloudrnnr]

And you absolutely convinced she-who-must-be-obeyed that it was more economical to keep what I have!

[Don87]

Folks, Okay, okay, I am convinced. Now I just have to find the right rider for the mowing duties. I have the "Tim Taylor" complex for wanting a high end machine, but I have to admit, my $400 MTD off of craigslist has been very, very hard to kill despite nearly 5 years of Texas sand and oak droppings. It is at the point of being on life support, but the dang thing just keeps on starting.

On the L2800, currently I have the stock R1s. Would going to R4s increase the slope stability any?

R4's are generally wider, which sould make it more stable. But I believe the rim would need to be replaced to accomodate R4's. That's getting into a lot of money. You could just get wheel spacers to widen your footprint 'if the need arises'.

[k0ua]

Folks, Okay, okay, I am convinced. Now I just have to find the right rider for the mowing duties. I have the "Tim Taylor" complex for wanting a high end machine, but I have to admit, my $400 MTD off of craigslist has been very, very hard to kill despite nearly 5 years of Texas sand and oak droppings. It is at the point of being on life support, but the dang thing just keeps on starting.

On the L2800, currently I have the stock R1s. Would going to R4s increase the slope stability any?

yes a little, due to the fact they are wider. But that is a wad of money to put out for new tires and new wheels.

[Grandad4]

R4's are generally wider, which sould make it more stable. But I believe the rim would need to be replaced to accomodate R4's. That's getting into a lot of money. You could just get wheel spacers to widen your footprint 'if the need arises'.

This would be a good approach to start with. Put as much low weight on the tractor as you can get to stay in place: Ballast the tires, add wheel weights if you can find some that are affordable, strap your heaviest relative to the 3 pt (or maybe just an implement, if it weighs more ). Keep the R1's and make sure the wheels are set as wide as possible. Add wheel spacers.

These would all be frugal ways to keep your tractor stable. You may spend hundreds doing this, but not thousands.

Regarding the mower, don't spend all your time keeping an old beater alive. Get something dependable. You'll have lots of other stuff to do.

By the way, I hope you have a great time with your new place. That could be quite an adventure!

[Johndeere3720]

The Rear rims in your L2800 should be reversible. That being said you have the square "dish" bolted onto the rim. That dish should have at least 2 positions, likely 4 to alter the width of your tractor. The front tires can easily be reversed (left tire put on right side, tread still pointing forward) however that will put added stress on your front axle when doing work with the FEL. You also can buy wheel spacers online, that may be a good alternative to getting the most width out of the tractor, but I would defiantly start with looking at adjusting the rear rims since that will co$t nothing to do.

[Gary Fowler]

You could also put dual wheels on the rear. I think his handle is TungularFish Camp and he rigged up dual wheels for his CUT due to operation in beach sand, but it works for slopes also. Look at the Ventrac with duals. Kind of expensive proposition but doable and less cost than a new tractor.