Buying Advice How to negotiate

[joshuabardwell]

80 AMP alternator (was listed as an option and I will ask the salesman why I would care)
hooks on bucket (If someone can post a photo of a good set up would be much appreciated)

The bigger alternator is, in my experience (reading TBN, that is) mainly used to run additional lights. This is less of an issue now that there are high-quality LED lights available for a reasonable cost, since LED lights have much lower amp draw per lumen than incandescent. Still, you might consider what a typical running current draw is for your tractor (headlights, radio, any other electrics--ask the dealer) and then look at how many amps in reserve that leaves you on the stock alternator. A good, bright LED light might only pull 1-2 amps, so if you had two forward-facing and two rear-facing, that'd only be 4-8 amps total. Chances are that the factory alternator has enough spare capacity to supply this, but some people don't like running on the ragged edge. Also, some people have more demanding electrical accessories that they plan to run, such as sprayer pumps.

With regard to bucket hooks, there are more threads on TBN than you can shake a stick at. Here's a link. Your dealer probably does this alteration all the time and, unless you have a welding shop you particularly want to use, you'll probably get a better price from him than anywhere else, just because you won't have to transport the tractor or have a welder pay a house call. It is generally recommended to get 5/16" grab hooks, because these will grab chain from 1/4" up to 3/8", which covers the most commonly used sizes for utility tractors. If you think you'll be using different sizes of chain, take that into account. Also, be sure that the dealer welds on the hooks in line with the loader arms, and not outside of the loader arms. This is something that the dealer should already know, but I know of one case here on TBN where dealer-installed hooks were installed at the very outside of the bucket. The dealer will also probably be able to advise you whether it will be necessary to reinforce the top of the bucket with angle iron or something similar.

A common setup is to put grab hooks at the outside and a slip-hook in the center. The chain can then be run through the center slip-hook and affixed to one of the outer grab hooks if one wants a single point of pull. Alternatively, some folks like to put a 2" receiver tube on the center of the bucket. This allows moving trailers with the bucket (as long as you have a ball mount with sufficient drop to allow you to get it under the coupler). Accessories like a clevis can be mounted to a 2" tube and put on the center of the bucket, or you can even put a vice or other such thing there for field work. Since you have a QA bucket specced, it may be less desirable to have your bucket do everything, since it will be easier for you to drop the bucket and pick up a trailer hitch mover, for example. For those of us with pin-on buckets, it's desirable to change implements as little as possible.

[SanDucerro]

radio/CD

I know you meant to say MP3 player... Those CD's don't play well off-road.

[CesumPec]

I know you meant to say MP3 player... Those CD's don't play well off-road.

I had a portable CD player i carried in the backhoe and managed to pull stumps day after day while listening to all sorts of interesting audio books. But that player committed suicide one day by jumping out of my lap and under the wheels of the LBH. I tried replacing the player but couldn't find one that could take the vibrations, so I broke down and got instructions from my daughter on how to use an Ipod. For the last 2 weeks I've caught up to the 2000s but I prefer the 90s. I'm hoping the radio/CD/MP3 that comes in the kubota cab is built to take farm life.

[CesumPec]

I walked into a kubota dealership yesterday. The salesman didn't say hi, may I help you, what's your name, but just kept his face buried in a computer as i stood in front of his desk. A little frustrated, I started the convo with, "How would you like to sell that M7040 over there?"

Him: Let me type up this last order and I'll be with you in a few minutes.

I probably should have walked out right then and there, but i wanted a quote so I pressed on. Eventually he looks up and says the tractor is $43xxx.

Me: Can we price it out with the options I need?

Lots of problems with the discussion but a few highlights are,

Me: Why would I need an 80 amp alternator?
Him: How do I know what your needs are?
...
Me: Should I get the defogger?
Him: I can't tell you what you should do.
Me: I've never had a cab on a tractor, do I need the defogger?
Him: I can price it out anyway you want it.

I eventually got a quote of ~$44K, said thank you very much, and headed for the door. He stopped me long enough to finally introduce himself as the dealership owner's son. This wasn't some dumb kid, he's easily into his late 40s.

I got my data point, but I will NOT buy from that dealership.

[J F]

Isn't it amazing?

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CesumPec,
Cash talks loudest at the end. Good luck

idaho2

now a days, it may not. Many times a dealer may get a percentage of the financing (1% or less). If so he makes more money with the financing.

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Second Q - how do i go about negotiating with the dealer? I'm pretty good at car buying, but I have so much more info then.

Find the list on the tractor. 1. Should be on their website or ask the dealership. 2. Figure the dealership has a 25% spread between invoice and msrp. Delivery charges might be as high as $750 if the factory and dealership are far apart. Hypothetically if the tractor lists for 50K, it cost the dealership 37.5K plus freight. Knowing this, arrive at a fair price with your additions that you are willing to pay. Go in and tell the dealer what you want to do.