joshuabardwell
Elite Member
The bigger alternator is, in my experience (reading TBN, that is) mainly used to run additional lights. This is less of an issue now that there are high-quality LED lights available for a reasonable cost, since LED lights have much lower amp draw per lumen than incandescent. Still, you might consider what a typical running current draw is for your tractor (headlights, radio, any other electrics--ask the dealer) and then look at how many amps in reserve that leaves you on the stock alternator. A good, bright LED light might only pull 1-2 amps, so if you had two forward-facing and two rear-facing, that'd only be 4-8 amps total. Chances are that the factory alternator has enough spare capacity to supply this, but some people don't like running on the ragged edge. Also, some people have more demanding electrical accessories that they plan to run, such as sprayer pumps.
With regard to bucket hooks, there are more threads on TBN than you can shake a stick at. Here's a link. Your dealer probably does this alteration all the time and, unless you have a welding shop you particularly want to use, you'll probably get a better price from him than anywhere else, just because you won't have to transport the tractor or have a welder pay a house call. It is generally recommended to get 5/16" grab hooks, because these will grab chain from 1/4" up to 3/8", which covers the most commonly used sizes for utility tractors. If you think you'll be using different sizes of chain, take that into account. Also, be sure that the dealer welds on the hooks in line with the loader arms, and not outside of the loader arms. This is something that the dealer should already know, but I know of one case here on TBN where dealer-installed hooks were installed at the very outside of the bucket. The dealer will also probably be able to advise you whether it will be necessary to reinforce the top of the bucket with angle iron or something similar.
A common setup is to put grab hooks at the outside and a slip-hook in the center. The chain can then be run through the center slip-hook and affixed to one of the outer grab hooks if one wants a single point of pull. Alternatively, some folks like to put a 2" receiver tube on the center of the bucket. This allows moving trailers with the bucket (as long as you have a ball mount with sufficient drop to allow you to get it under the coupler). Accessories like a clevis can be mounted to a 2" tube and put on the center of the bucket, or you can even put a vice or other such thing there for field work. Since you have a QA bucket specced, it may be less desirable to have your bucket do everything, since it will be easier for you to drop the bucket and pick up a trailer hitch mover, for example. For those of us with pin-on buckets, it's desirable to change implements as little as possible.
Those CD's don't play well off-road.